"Simplifying" a simple shift cable replacement

[DRMousseau]

One of the greatest advantages of owning a "classic" motor home, such as my "73 Winnebago Brave on a M300 chassis, is the simplicity and ease of repair and replacement,... aside from locating hard to find obsolete parts!!!

One commonly replaced part, is the Transmission Shift Cable to the common 727 transmission. Like many others, mine had its problems of binding, cracks and heat damage of the  sheath covering, moisture and corrosion, as well as cold weather freezing that eventually caused it to seize up and prevent ANY shifting from the park position. Removing the cable will verify that such problems ARE NOT typically a faulty shifter assembly or internal transmission damage. The previous owner also had trouble with this, as evidenced by the attempted "recrimping" of the cable end shown here, in the first photo below, and of course the broken "tips" of the transmission cable bracket (second photo).

While you MIGHT find OEM cable replacements, you can be sure that bracket won't even be close to being easy to locate! And who knows how much that bracket will cost in time, effort, and cash! The cable seems to run from about $80-$180 depending on the source, and you can still be pretty sure the risks of the exposed cable binding at the shifter end, will still plague you. Kink that cable and it WILL NOT run into the sheath as it should. I've found some folks suggesting an added spring at the transmission end, for an expected problem that should never be with a new replacement! So let me tell you how save ALOT of money on parts to avoid these problems and "simplify" your next, and maybe LAST shift cable repair!

The 727 transmission is a favorite of many classic cars, street rods, and older "Performance" racers and enthusiasts. Still sought and used as they're nearly bulletproof and incredibly dependable. Parts are still generally quite available and easy to locate at most any local parts supply or thru popular online suppliers. Photo 3 shows the typically available cable and transmission bracket commonly used today by many who favor the 727 trans. Cost of those shown was only $68 for BOTH!!! Of course they were on sale WITH free shipping when I happened to be shopping for these alternatives, but you'll find similar prices and general availability in local stores too.

You'll notice first, that the cable is rather different than our original. While the eyelet end and threaded end, seem at first to be just fine, there's a few details that jus won't work as the original OEM did. AND, the packaged bracket is NOTHING like the original bracket, and it includes a transmission shift arm replacement!!! These are all minor improvements over the original OEM that was standard in the day.

Oh,... you'll also need a bit extra. An 1/8" x 3/4" steel bar stock about 10" long or so, a few common bolts and locknuts, a drill bit, and maybe a new saw blade to cut that bar stock. Total costs for ALL these extras was less than $10 at local hardware.

Remember,.... this IS a simple, easy and economical alternative that most anybody can do!!! And IF a future cable replacement IS ever necessary for some unforeseen reason, you'll rest assured that you'll find one most anywhere on the road with reasonable cost. My next post will detail the installation and simple fabrication that's necessary for this "mod".

[DRMousseau]

Let's start by setting the parking brake and blocking BOTH sides of all rear wheels to prevent any accidental rolling of the MH!!! Crawl under the rig behind the the front drivers side tire and begin by removing the shift cable from the transmission control lever on the drivers side of the trans. A clevis makes this connection and you simply remove the cotter pin from the small clevis pin that holds the clevis to the shift arm. Mine had a bent nail in place of the clevis pin. I tried to find a replacement pin for clevis. Checked EVERY hardware, auto, mower, motorcycle and snowmobile shop,.... you'd think a tiny 10cent item would be easy to find!!! Nope!!! If necessary, I'd have to settle for a small bolt and locknut, which you might find has been used to previously repair yours!!! Don't worry none,... we're gonna make this simple and easy and much, MUCH better than original! The cable sheath end is typically "crimped" in the prongs of the cable bracket. Those are the same prongs that were broken off on mine, making the bracket useless. Remove the cable from the bracket, and remove the bracket from the trans by loosening and removing the single mounting bolt of the bracket. Assure that the cable is now loosely hanging on ground, and if not, remove any zip ties, wire or whatever keeps it from hanging loose. The cable SHOULD be supported by a loop bracket along the mid-point of the engines oil pan, but as a result of previous repair attempts, this might not be case. If the cable is loose and free, you should be able to retrieve it toward the front of the vehicle by opening the front grill pulling the looping cable past the radiator in the lower right (drivers side) corner of the grill access. Allow the cable to lay free from the front of the MH.

Now let's go in the driving compartment and start removing that nice dash plate around the shift lever. An allen head set screw holds the shift knob on the lever. It's located on the top backside of the knob and must be loosened considerably to clear the notch lever shaft. Next, remove the 4 screws from the faceplate of the shift lever and set aside. Recessed inside the opening is the shifter assembly. Remove the 4 small corner bolts that secure it to the dash plate. CAREFULLY push the assembly into the dash far enough to clear the shift lever to remove the assembly from under the dash. Careful to clear any wires and the cables from the heater controls, remove shift assembly and entire cable from the dash. Place the shift lever in a central position to access the cable end easier, and remove lock pin from shaft end that holds cable eye in place. Again, you'll probably find the cable sheath end to be clenched in the pins that hold it in place on the shifter assembly. CAREFULLY free the cable from the shifter housing and remove. You might note the exposed cable end that may have been plaguing you. Perhaps it's bent and kinked, or maybe frayed and broken. If so, rest assured that this's will NEVER happen again! Another problem point, is where the cable passes thru a sharp edged hole from the dash area to the front grill access. Photo one below shows a pipe placed in this hole to align with the cables path and form the metal in a manner to better allow the cable, a free and more direct passage thru to prevent excessive chaffing and/or excessive bending of the cable housing at this point. Photo 2 shows the reshaped hole.

Note the eyelet end of the NEW cable that has some special improvements over the OEM. The eyelet is part of a rod end the keeps the vulnerable cable within a sleeve to prevent bending, kinking, and any exposure to other harm. Also notice the small, heavy, flat offset bracket that's firmly crimped and attached to the cable sleeve. We're gonna fabricate a simple bracket to adapt our new cable to our OEM shifter assembly.

Begin by drilling a hole for a short 5/16" bolt about 3/8" from each end of your 1/8"x3/4" steel bar. Make a sharp right angle bend about 3/4" from one end in a vice. Attach stubby cable bracket on end of cable sheath to the outside of the bent steel bracket with a short 5/16" bolt and locknut, with long end of bracket extending over cable end. Do not tighten bolt yet. Make sure your shift assembly is in the "park" position, and temporally place eyelet end over pin of shift lever. Place bracket on top of shifter assembly and locate a hole as close to the end of the top assembly surface as possible while allowing a small amount of slack by cable shaft in sleeve housing. Drill a matching hole thru top shifter assembly and attach with bolt and locknut as shown in photo 3. Drill another hole thru bracket and assembly at back of housing assembly. See photo 4 for completed and mounted bracket with cable installed. Pay special attention to locate bracket in position needed so cable rod end is about 1/8" from fully retracted in sheath housing. Bend bracket as necessary to provide straight alignment of cable to shifter pin of assembly (see photo 4). Realign if necessary and tighten bolts securely.

[DRMousseau]

A few thing to note carefully here with reference to the last photo of completed assembly in previous post.

The OEM mount tabs of shift assembly is slightly off center of assembly axis to align with eyelet pin of shifter. This poor manner of mounting cable was not secure enough to prevent eventual problems that caused exposed cable to bend and kink. Note carefully in photo, that new cable sleeve of eyelet shaft is now supported here with a rubber grommet! The tab mount of the new cable sleeve can now be fastened securely with the flexibility of adjusting cable into perfect alignment of housing offset and much greater stability! NO MORE KINKED OR BENT CABLE EVER AGAIN!!!

Make sure your top mounting bolts of bracket to housing, clear all moving mechanisms of shifter (see photo 1 below). Don't forget grommet on eyelet shaft housing support. Since eyelet is slightly larger than pin, note in photo 1 that I also added a tiny nylon bushing to eyelet pin for a closer, smoother fit and operation with minimal slack and looseness for more positive operation of shift.

Reinstalling assembly into dash will be only slightly tricker since "modified" assembly is now much larger, but there's plenty of room under the dash, jus watch those wires and heater cables. Replace new cable and shifter assembly into dash and head out to the front grill access. My new cable was only slightly shorter than that which I replaced, this was nicer since there was less excess to keep away from hot exhaust systems and made for a cleaner "finish" that was more "fitted". Route your cable beside lower right corner of radiator as original. Keep cable as far from exhaust as possible to prevent heat damage to your new cable! I used the supports along the edge of oil pan. Some have fabricated "heat shields" for the exhaust, others have "wrapped" the exhaust system in this area for greater protection of cable from heat damage. Today's new "performance cables" are much better than OEM or replacements and are better able to withstand greater extremes.

[Rickf1985]

Very good! I will attest to one thing though, those cables will melt from heat, I have had it happen many times in race Jeeps. If you can put a simple shield made of a scrap piece of metal between the cable and the exhaust that is a good idea.

[DRMousseau]

Now let's finish the transmission end!

My new bracket was packaged with a new shifter lever and all needed hardware (well,... ALMOST all). Bracket, lever and hardware is also readily available separately! So what was missing??? The new bracket mounts to two of transmission pan bolts using two short spacers. These spacers and new bracket require that new, 1/2" longer pan bolts be used!!! Other than that, mounting of new bracket is pretty straight forward and simple. Although OEM clevis of original will match threaded end of new cable, you'll not be able to use it with new bracket as it will be about an inch too long. No real problem though, clevis and pin are nearly impossible to find or replace on the road anywhere if needed, and these new pieces will be MUCH easier to find!

You'll notice a slight difference in the replacement shift lever when compared closely with OEM (photo 1 below). Aside from the hole size in the end of the arm (can't use clevis anyway so larger hole will be needed for cable "screw stud"), you might notice the slight difference in arm length. This concerned me as shift geometry can be pretty critical!!! Figured if original length is necessary, I can always drill hole bigger for new fittings. I'll suggest you do the same as I, and try new one for fit, as you'll still need to remove original to drill out if necessary.

You may have noticed a second shift lever, when you removed the old cable. That one is connected with linkage to the carburetor and you'll need to remove that arm first, before you can remove the lower shift arm. Again, pretty straight forward, replace lower one with the new lever and reinstall the upper lever and Linkage. They're both self indexing, and the carb linkage is fixed at this end.

Mount the cable housing to the new mount, leavin' a bit loose for adjustments. Screw cable stud onto threaded end of cable shaft. With transmission in Park and console shift lever in the Park position, adjust stud and cable mount nuts, so stud slips easily into shift lever. Shift console lever into 1st and make sure trans is also in 1st while assuring that stud still slips easily into shift lever. Adjust as necessary and tighten cable mount nuts firmly.

BEFORE STARTING ENGINE, be sure transmission lever positions AND console shifter positions match one another with equal fit of cable stud in trans shift lever. Finely adjust if necessary. Place console shift in Park and with foot on brake pedal, start engine. Shut engine off, place shifter in "N" and again, while holding brake pedal, start engine. With engine running, place shifter in "D", "R", and  "P" to ascertain all functions.

IF ENGINE DOES NOT START in either the Park or Neutral position, recheck adjust carefully. If engine will not start in ANY position, check connections on nearby neutral switch of transmission.

Make sure all seals remain in place on new cable. Cable should not have any bends within the first few inches of cable housing and sheath. Make sure cable has no other sharp bends and all curves are smooth and uniform.

A new cable replacement should provide a smooth, positive and sure shift with little or no slack, without binding or stiffness under various conditions heat, cold and weather variations.

And such cable replacement should provide simple, easy, economical,  service, repair and/or replacement, whenever and wherever necessary!!!

(I'd be happy to answer all questions and provide whatever knowledge and suggestions that may be helpful)
 

[DRMousseau]

Since this IS an area of various exhaust connections, it can indeed be problematic. Any hot leakage of exhaust can certainly be damaging to nearby components of wiring and cabling. Original and/or "poor" replacement cables will "cost" more in the long run, than quality cables of reasonable prices.

A poor exhaust or header system can also cause a lot of headaches! Proper routing of shift cables will still benefit from shielding in problem areas, but in general, should be unnecessary. 

[brokenspokane]

DRMousseau,

Great article!  I have to face the transmission cable replacement issue on a '73 d-22 Indian on a RM375 (M400) chassis powered by a 413-1 and your step-by-step instructions should be quite helpful.

Question;  can you be more precise as to what you used.  Manufacture, outlets, name brand, part number.  I've got International Truck Parts and Napa Parts both chasing after something but without this after market replacement part number I haven't heard back from either.

Thanks!

Brooke

[DRMousseau]

YOUR IN LUCK!!! With a few photos and some measurements,... I may have EXACTLY what you are looking for!!!

My ol' Winnebago has fallen hard, and this complete assembly WITH modified components EXACTELY as seen here,... will be available for you if you'd like

I'll PM you soon with details.

[brokenspokane]

Well, I'm sorry to hear your Winnie has had problems.  I don't consider myself lucky as a result but I do still need a shift cable.  What happened?
The original cable is 8' long.  Here are some pic's.
Brooke

[DRMousseau]

GREAT pics,.... they show exactly some of the issues many experience with the OEM cables and brackets that result in failure and frustration.

1. I see in the first pic, damaged cable housing. This typically occurs in "heat" areas along the frame near the exhaust and manifold. The damage allows water penetration, rust and corrosion in this area of the cable and causes binding and stiffness. Moisture in this area will freeze, as mine did in cold weather. and can prevent movement. There's no cure here.

2. The trans end shows the "boot" in rather good condition! Although most are severely damaged or even missing. The "accordion" style boot tends to collect dirt and particles that hold moisture and many cables begin to rust thru as the strands break one by one here.

3. I see the expose cable behind the shift lever, has been bent and deformed as many are. If stiffness or binding occurs anywhere along the cable, this exposed portion will bend with damage and added resistance in shifting. Many install a "return" spring to help pull the cable in this area. A "Band-Aid" fix that doesn't address the problems of a damaged cable.

4. I noticed too, that the "bracket" on the trans end, is in rather good condition. This is an integral part of the assembly and contributes much to OEM replacement costs. You will notice that mine was damaged as POs tried to "repair" the problems of their binding cable. The close-up pic of your bracket end also shows the cable housing end. This end tends to rust as yours has and begins to loosen on the end of the cable causing cable binding and breakage at this point too.

The replacement I installed addressed ALL those issues, AND with a simple fabrication requiring nothing more than a drill and hacksaw to make the bracket on the shifter housing. Everything else jus bolts right on!

NOW,.... it seems I have sold the ol' Winnebago, as is, and the buyer may be "driving" it away. So my modified install will remain with it. Sorry. But here's a list of the easy to find parts.

B&M 10497 automatic shift levers and bracket kit- you can order thru JEGS, Summit Racing, or maybe even your local automotive shop. Costs about $30-$35

B&M 80834 is an 8' super duty shift cable costs about $60-$65. A high quality Hurst 500-0028 will run a bit over $70. These are available at local stores too but cost a bit more. Jus ask for an 8' Unimatic Shift Cable, eyelet on one end.

The 1/8'x3/4" flat steel bar stock and assorted bolts are available at any hardware. Bar stock is usually about 3' lengths, but it's cheap and gives ya extra to work with.

[roma]

Thank you for this great article ,I ordered the parts so I can fix my 72  24 ft indian.
Greetings from a proud dutch owner