Exterior Paint Recommendations

[Fellowrvers1]

Sent: 4/16/2004

Have 1979 Brave with a 440Dodge.  Need to know what a good paint to use on the plastic or fiberglass above windows in front,it is spider-webbing.Trying to stop-possible leaks and cracks. Thanks! Mike

[Sea Hag]

Sent: 4/17/2004

      The exterior paint is acrylic enamel and acrylic lacquer automotive paint  - Winnebago sells It in 12 Oz . spraycans You base exterior color is Off White for 79 brave winnebago part #041561-01-(03)-000 . You can also buy it from an auto store that deals in automotive paint or a auto paint supply house . if you want to mix and spray with a paint gun - they should also have a small spray setup for use with mixed paint with a pressure canister attached (similar to a spray can but refillable and reuseable )- this may be more economicle way to go depending on the size of the area you are painting as you need to buy the paint and the correct thinner  ) - the Dupont paint numbers fro you 79 brave are Off white # 4996 -  Orange # 7455  - BLUE # 5183  - Brown # 29607 - Green # 7966  -  a Good paint autopaint supplier will be able to cross the dupont numbers to the brand they carry - sand the original paint smooth if still sticking well no need to remove it all . No difference between painting fiberglass and aluminum . Sea Hag 

[wislawman]

 Sent: 4/17/2004

I would agree with Sea Hag's posting. If you want a cheaper costing paint, go to Menards and get Rust-o-leum gallon paint. Apply with a sponge roller with cornered edges. No lines will show. It comes in high gloss and goes on and covers nicely. This of course is the poor man's version of automotive paint.

[Oz]

Sent: 4/17/2004

I  don't know if you have Tractor Supply stores in your area but, they sell tractor paint by the gallon for a less than Rustoleum and it is for use on farm equipment so it is durable.  I used it on my boat trailer. - Sob

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Sent: 4/17/2004 

Funny you should mention that Sob.   The bottom half of my Chieftain is painted with the Tractor Supply paint.  I used International Harvester White.  Comes in Gallons, Quarts and spray cans.

Dave

[Marksbestfan6]

Sent: 7/19/2004

At our Tractor supply store here in indiana i've seen all different colors of paint for aluminium, It said it rite on the can aluminium & galvinized paint.

[Sea Hag]

Sent: 7/19/2004

The main problem with my paint flakeing is, that it 's 28 years old .  I would agree that the proper primer is important ' but most good automotive or industrial enamel primers will adhere to aluminum . You must properly prepare the surface first . this would include lightly sanding ( 180 to 220 grit )the entire surface whether it be bare or still painted .this removes any loose paint and gives the primer someting to stick to . Then you must remove the dust with air and a tach cloth . Right before you prime you must clean the entire surface with a rag and a  pre cleaner / wax remover . You can use the proper tinner as a sustitute . then prime the entire area not just the bare spots . this process must be repaeted  again using a fine grit  (220 min ) before finish coat .
Sea Hag

[Moondisc1]

Sent: 7/28/2004

Sea Hag (that's what I call my wife when I want to get her po'ed) is correct on the prep.  But you should always use an etching primer on bare aliuminum. 

NAPA, Autozone etc. sells etching primer in spray cans.  Rustolem & tractor paint have 2 problems. They take forever to dry, and they lose their shine quick.  I would never brush or roll the paint on your RV. If you do it will crack, and it'll be a beech to strip it and do it right at a later date.

Your better off using spray cans. It'll dull quickly too, but at least it won't be as thick.  Keep the can even with the panel (don't swing your arm in an arch) watch your spray pattern and overlap by 50%.

If you don't have access to a compressor & DA sander, you can use an electric vibrating sander. NEVER use a sanding disc on a drill! It'll will gouge everything to death.  Above all remember, paint hides nothing, it magnifies. And inperfections in your prep work will look 10x worse when there is paint on it.

Bodywork is a pain without the right equipment. But with time and A LOT of patience you can make it look good.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Sent: 7/28/2004

"Bodywork is a pain without the right equipment."

Man is that an understatement.  I spent hours and hours and hours and hours on my rig and it though it looks ok, it is no where near what an experienced bodyshop can do.   The tractor paint does take a while to dry.  Lasting shine? Jury still out on that one.  I know chrome paint CANNOT be waxed.  It turns grey.   Pull masking tape off after the paint has taken a set.  Never let it dry or it will pull the good paint off with it (Paint has to be flexable so it will lift without pulling chips off).  The paint can run easily on the smooth surface when using a spray gun (compressor) setup.  Can really be a challenge when overlapping the previous section you just sprayed.  Sharp edges cannot hold paint like a flat panel so it can run.  Outdoor spraying means bugs.  Never spray at night because the lights attract even more bugs.  Be prepared to apply all coats in one session.  The paint has to just set for 15 minutes between coats then spary again.  This allows the chemicals in each layer to mix and bond together forming a stronger overall coat.  All I can say is, while in my situation, I would do it again, I would never apply for a job as a paint and body man. 

Oh, I chose Tractor paint because I could get a close color, was priced right, intended for home spraying, comes in gallons for the big job, and comes in spray cans for touchups along the way.  While many of your rigs here are almost a brite white, mine is the sandy tan color.  I used International Harverster White to get a close match to the original color.  Stripes where my own custom mix.  Mine also has a bronze like strip.  I used the metalic bronze spray paint but would not recommend it now.  Does not dry smooth.  More like light sandpaper.  Win some, loose some.

Dave

[Moondisc1]

Sent: 7/28/2004

"I would never apply for a job as a paint and body man."

Did it for years until it made me sick.
Spray a coat, puke. Spray a coat, puke. Spray a coat, dry heaves 'cause there was nothing left.
People need to understand, it's not just what you breath in. You absorb toxins through your skin, eyes, etc.

I painted the nose of my 78 Brave with 1 step urethane because I had the hardner and reducer. Thought it would be a cheap way out.
$56 a quart for the paint!
Guess I've been out of it longer than I thought.
Glad I've got an HVLP spray gun. Only took about 1/2 a quart.
I buffed and waxed the other 3 sides.
You've got no idea how big these things are until you go up and down a ladder buffing them out!
First trip out people with $200K+ coaches were telling me how great it looked.
I had to look up to thank them, all bent over with back pain! hehe

[tatkin]

[size=78%]Painting a rig with a brush...  [/size]

Actually, I read that if you use marine paint.  This can ? eliminate/reduce brush strokes ...

[Oz]

Sent: 5/30/2006

Yes, using marine paint can reduce brush strokes, but that is all dependent on the paint and the process used.  You actually use a roller for the large areas, doing small portions at a time, and immediately follow over the area just painted with a very soft brush... the expensive kind.  It's called "feathering"... and...  marine paint is horribly expensive!

I did my rig with a roller and brush, using rustoleum, and it looks fine from a few feet away.  2 years later, it shows absolutely no sign of wear and still shines.  But, If you want a better finish and not get killed in cost... buy spray cans and a trigger/nozzle.  Yes, you still have to tape and paper the rig, but the extra effort is well worth it for a smooth finish.

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[ghambley]

Sent: 5/31/2006

The cheap semi gloss white walmart paint .96 a can matches the white paint on my 72 Brave.

Gary

[JCMAC]

Sent: 6/5/2006

  Nice info on painting!   Here is what I know:

  The best primer for aluminum is zinc oxide (replacing zinc chromate for health reasons) or an etching primer.  These can be had from www.aircraftspruce.com or others.

  Question: what are the tan & brown colors for my '72 D22C?
I am thinking of adding a polished aluminum look below the flying W (see test pics).
  Comments?
  Where do I get the stencil to repaint my "CHIEFTIAN" ?

  Thanks,
John

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 6/25/2006

I used Rustoleum Professional a year ago, with a brush.  The paint is awesome!!!  One coat on the white, 2 on the green stripes...

Still holding strong today...

DON'T use a brush, though!  Use a roller, or a sprayer!!!  From 15 yards away, the Ark looks brand new...from a few feet away, you can see the brush strokes.

Sob's rig turned out beautifully with a roller though...

Kev

[Rogerslvnv]

Almost three years ago now i painted my Ford Probe with Black Rustoleum Professional using a small 4" foam roller. It is a technique outlined in HotRod magazine and in several forums online. For the car you thin the paint by about 20% with thinner and roll on several coats and wetsand in between. The thinner paint lays almost totally smooth on application. I intend to do the Winne similarly... i will not wetsand it between coats and i won't go quite as thin with the paint. I wax the Probe about once a year with a good wax and a buffer and it still looks great, that whole paintjob including all the body work stuff ran me $350 and only took a week(for six thin coats, drying sanding and buffing).

[Oz]

It has now been 5 years since I painted my rig with Rustoleum.  Every bit as good and shiny as day 1 after doing it.  No flaking, no blistering, no sun fade... nada.

I didn't use any primer.  I painted over the original paint, and over a large section of bare aluminum.  The only thing I did was thoroughly surface prep the areas.

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As for the statements that rolling and/or brushing on will ripple, crack or flake in just a couple years... I beg to differ as The photo above was taken 5 years after I painted the rig... still beautiful and almost as perfect as the week I painted it.
You can view this repaint project in My Photo Album[/u][/url]

[Rogerslvnv]

Pharaoh, by surface prep do you mean you sanded or did you just get it really clean, wax and dust free?? and did you roll or spray on the rustoleum?

[Oz]

Thanks, I should have explained that better.

I thoroughly washed and rinsed the rig first.  I then sanded the entire rig with 500 grit emery and repeated the wash and rinse.  I used a scrub brush during the washing, taking my time and thoroughly scrubbing every inch to ensure all oil, wax, or other substance was removed and to cause any borderline "flaking" areas to be exposed.

I removed the flaking, oxydized paint using a paint remover wheel on a drill, and then washed and rinsed that area again.

I used a 1" brush to paint around the windows, trim, and hard to reach spots and a 4" roller for the main areas.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Man has it been six years since I did this with TSC Tractor Paint?  How time flies.
Doing a good prep job is going be one of the most important steps.  I most likely didn't do it all right and have several places that were bubbling up and flaking.  WIll be having to redo several areas but is worth it.  So do take the time to prep it first.

Dave

[jkilbert]

as far as paints go it's always prep that counts. here's one place i've delt with that has an excellent product at a good price for a complete paint kit. the have 144 factory colors and several are close to winnie colors

  http://www.tcpglobal.com/RestorationShop/

[OldEdBrady]

I shouldn't have read all this!  Now I'm intimidated! 

[Oz]

Ed, it all depends on what you want to do.  Me, I just scrubbed the RV down and rolled on the Rustoleum and, as anyone who's seen it will tell you, after 4 years, it looks the same as when I first painted it.

[OldEdBrady]

Scrubbed and painted? And sanded.  And cleaned more.  Plus I have dings and holes that have to be filled in.  Ah, me.  A lifetime project, I suppose.

[OldEdBrady]

It's not what to end up with.  It's what needs to be done before I can even START to make it end up that way.   i??