Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

[RockwoodMike]

As you have said..better now than later.

When you buy a ring and pinion kit, it always comes with the 12 new bolts that hold the big ring to the carrier..Warnings in the service manual to never use the old ones..

There is no new bolts in the kit like the one that snapped..and no mention of replacing them..The big 12 bolts get 110 LBS of torque..this one that snapped is only 70..

I just need to make this as mechanically solid as possible..it would cost at least 300 to drag your rig off the freeway..and then to actually fix it??..As old as they are, no junkyard is going to have a replacement..

[Eyez Open]

You might want to update yourself as to what the current market rates are for heavy trucks. And then find one who can actually do the work.

I've been quoted 2500 on r&r a p30 brake system

800 to " install headers"read labor.

A new rear end on the road? 3500/4000. Believe it.

[RockwoodMike]

I am waiting for those special bolts to replace the one that snapped..But I figured while I am waiting, I can still get it all shimmed out to spec..

Pic 1 shows the thing all installed and I can replace the bolts 1 at a time as you rotate it around..

This job is not for the faint of heart..This is a B I Itch to get right..You must have a minimum of a bearing clam shell puller..Case spreader..and a dial indicator to set backlash..Also a inch pound torque wrench to set the pinion bearing preload..

There are plenty of YT videos on the Dana 70 to watch..

Pic 2 shows the front yoke..That nut has a torque spec of 250-275 LBS..Better have a good torque wrench and a strong back!!

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 3..while it is in a place that is very easy to get to, lets make a nice new set of brake lines!! I attached temporarily the brake backing plates and mounted the wheel cylinders..That way  can make the brake lines fit nice..

Pic4..Using NiCopp (Nickle-Copper) for the brake lines..Not steel..It is very easy to bend and it won't rust out out like steel lines..When you buy a 25 foot roll, you get a good selection of fittings to go with it(in the tuna can)..And then I used stainless spring wrap that goes over the brake line to protect it from being hit

Pic 5. bending this stuff is pretty easy..I have used my thumbs to bend it or use a bender like this one

Pic 6..I bought a Mastercool flair tool..It can do anything..in all sizes too..It can make double flair brake lines..fuel lines..It was a little pricey but it is a life time tool..

[RockwoodMike]

This flair tool has plenty of YT videos demonstrating it..And there is plenty of sellers that you can shop around to get the best price..

Pic 8 shows that the tube is clamped using the 3/16 tube clamp..

Pic 9 shows that the tube needs to be flush to the fence shown in pic 8..Pic 9 shows what it looks like when it is right..

Pic 10 shows that this is a 2 step method.tool on the left is used first and then the right finishes it

Pic 13 shows the final result..Nice flair!

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 14 shows the basic bent tubing laid out..

Pic 15 shows the spring wrap and the other fitting and flair completing the line..

Pic 16 shows both lines installed..After this was done, I took the lines, and backing plates back off..It will be easier to to mount the axle back in with out the possibility of damaging anything..

All of this has been a TON of work!!

[RockwoodMike]

I bought a 5/8 -18 thread tap and die set off of Ebay..Chase and clean up the threads of the shackles that bolt the axle assemble to the springs..Keep it well oiled during the cutting..Worked very well..

Pic 18..Gotta fix this bent shaft that mounts the shock absorber..Maybe I will just cut it off and use a grade 8 bolt to replace it.. 

[BigAlsVehicleEmporium]

This is where you are really tested..In the process of tightening the 8 bolts of the 2 piece carrier halves, one of the bolts snapped..Only 70 lbs of torque and SNAP!!

I'm so glad it was the bolt that snapped and the threads in the carrier weren't damaged! Helicoils wouldn't be strong enough to fix that I'm sure...

[BigAlsVehicleEmporium]

Pic 18..Gotta fix this bent shaft that mounts the shock absorber..Maybe I will just cut it off and use a grade 8 bolt to replace it.. 

One of my shock mount rods was bent too, but not nearly that bad! I just whacked it straight again and put a new shock on! I agree though, yours will probably have to be replaced.

[RockwoodMike]

I just whacked it straight again

I tried that..couldn't get any movement out of it using a sledge hammer..the problem I have is mounting it in a vise solid enough so that the blows would actually cause movement..

Just finished talking to a friend that really knows his stuff when it come to fabricating steel.."heat it up with a propane torch..bend it with a long pipe..when it is straight, then quince it with oil..it will re temper the steel to the original hardness"

It is only a shock mount..if it breaks going down the road, it isn't going to strand me..So I will give it a try..

[RockwoodMike]

I don't have an acetylene torch..Only one of those hand held torches using MAPP gas..I couldn't apply enough heat rapidly enough to get it red hot..

Pic 2 shows no red glow..

So Pic 3 shows the thing chopped off

And Pic 4 shows the hole I drilled waiting for a 5/8 Grade 8 bolt for it

[RockwoodMike]

I know that I showed the powder coating system before but this is such a nice way of restoring parts, that it needs to be shown again..

I use a piece of 12 gauge copper wire from some Romex house wire..You use it for the ground strap and to hang it up..Pic 5..

Pic 6..All powdered up..I sand blast the parts first then wash in the sink to remove the last bit of dirt and dust from the sandblasting..

Pic 7..Hanging up in the oven..Ready to close the door..

Pic 8..Pulled from the oven..

[RockwoodMike]

Here is the shackle bolts being powder coated..If you get powder on the threads it can be removed by the thread die used earlier or a bench top grinder with a wire wheel

[RockwoodMike]

Going back to the busted bolt..The new set uses a 5/8 wrench head and a larger washer base..

The old bolt used a 9/16 wrench head and the washer base is much smaller..

The new bolts are stronger and worry is at a minimum with them

[RockwoodMike]

There is a definite conclusion about working on these motorhomes..EVERYTHING is filthy!! Pic 11

Sand blasting and wire brush is work..Pics 12-13

But the results are really nice to see..Pic 14

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Time to get it down off the saw horses..I set it on my trans dolly.

Pic 2..But it was too tall to fit it under the springs..Had to pull it back out..

Pic 3..And set it on my floor jack to wheel it under the springs..

Pic 4..And start elevating it up

[RockwoodMike]

Pictures showing it being rotated in position and shackled into place..

[RockwoodMike]

Time for something new..The right wall has been like this for about 4 years now..Time to fix it..

With the skin laid on the ground, you can start making a new wall..Show the wheel wells made up..

Using 1.5x1.5 16 gauge steel tubing to make the frame for the wall.

[BigAlsVehicleEmporium]

That rear axle looks beautiful!

Ho-Lee Cow! I don't think I'd seen a picture of that side of your RV yet! That side must have been completely rotted out, huh? Seeing the skin on the ground like that makes it look like a cartoon that has been flattened by an acme product 

These rigs do look pretty much the same coming or going, don't they? Haha I had a hard time telling which end was the front for a second.

[Eyez Open]

Just two thoughts..

Bat Chit Crazy

Absolutely Exceptional Work

Your energy and determination is admirable. More plz...

[RockwoodMike]

Yea, I am up to my neck in Bat Chit Crazy..If I couldn't do this by myself I wouldn't be doing this at all..
For example, that differential came out to about 400 for parts..Eyez, you mentioned over 2000 for the same work..I would not have done it for that price..

As for the total take down of the wall..It just resulted in a long list of comedic errors..

Big Al..When you repair that wall that is flapping in the wind..DO NOT use pressure treated lumber..Nothing in the way of glue sticks to it..

I was just so disappointed the way Winnebago built these things with the foam walls..I have seen many YT videos of factories building their units that way and other building a frame for the walls..

Here is a picture of the start of the bottom edge for the new wall..I was thinking to use metal for the strength and then some 2x2 wood to create window openings..and then hard foam in between everywhere..

 

[RockwoodMike]

These rigs do look pretty much the same coming or going, don't they?

I didn't even notice that!! I have the skin laying down just to take measurements..It is amazing how un straight everything is..Work it..Work it..

The picture you mention has the rear at the bottom of the picture

[BigAlsVehicleEmporium]

Thanks for the tip about pressure treated lumber, I was just thinking that!

So, with the way the U-channel is at the bottom of all the walls, any sealer leaks results in it being a bathtub for the wood to soak in. Has anyone tried drilling some drain holes in the bottom of the channel to drain the eventual leaks? Is that a good idea or a bad one?

[RockwoodMike]

Is that a good idea or a bad one?

I think it is an excellent idea..I think you are going to use 2x2 wood for your repairs..Maybe if all the new wood was at least primed to protect the wood..Maybe not though as the glue may not stick to the primer..

[RockwoodMike]

I worked all day on this today and really didn't get much done..Talk about being on a fat learning curve!!

Pic 1 and 2 show just laying up what will become the foundation of the wall..It is a bit heavy but I am trying to keep it as light as I can..

Above this steel foundation will be a regular wood wall..much lighter with that..

Pic 3 just shows the layout around the wheel wells and the vertical short pieces that attach to the steel frame of the chassis..At least my welding skills have picked up some.