Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

[RockwoodMike]

the sides of the rods should actually have the numbers on them. Top and bottom, so you put them together the right way and don't mix up the shells.

There was nothing there on mine. Here is 2 pictures of the same rod..No numbers on any of the rods

This other picture has everything loaded on the truck..on the way to the machine shop..

Edit: Wait!! there is a light number that has been stamped in it..I didn't see it till I posted this picture..
I need to find a good optometrist in my area

[Eyez Open]

Will you bring those pistons to a helpful deck height? Lol I just help myself sometimes, what mfgs did to engine's in the name of emissions just kills me at times.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ideal-quench-height/

[RockwoodMike]

what mfgs did to engine's in the name of emissions just kills me at times.

From that link you posted...

"It's not uncommon for old-school, low-compression, smog-motor, stockers to have over 0.060-inch quench at TDC. We've even seen some '70s-era Chrysler 440 engines with the piston 0.150 inch or more down in the hole at TDC. Originally, this was done to lower compression and slow the burn rate in an effort to reduce detonation. Current theory is that this is counterproductive, producing more unburned gases and such a slow burn that the detonation tendency actually increases."

It seemed crazy to me to see those pistons down so deep. Chrysler claimed 8.1 CR..I think it was lower than that..

[Eyez Open]

More than probably mid 7's,but that was 40yrs ago and much has changed. Fuel formulations which have high methanol   content (slow combustion)and GM doing the vortec head design aka quench design. Flame travel Or propagation has quiet a effect on combustion/power&tourqe...and then there is the retarded cam timing and finally ignition timing which smog engines excel in and exhaburate poor performance...aka high heat and poor fuel economy
https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/quench-unlocking-performance-squished-between-the-piston-and-head/

No big deal however you are rebuilding that engine, just up the compression to the high 8's or very low 9's get the right cam and then some timing and your well on your way to 375/400hp and perhaps 475/500 lbs of tourqe. Now if your still required to do follow smog guidelines the above methods will not work.

https://store.440source.com/

[RockwoodMike]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2191/make/chrysler

This thing is a sweet manifold..Headers to go with it..Edelbrock carb (the one that I have, rebuilt)

MSD ignition, Crower 32240 cam..

This engine went 115000 miles in basically stock configuration..The only change was the headers recently added..and the Edelbrock carb.

With the cleanup milling that the machine shop will do, I think the 8.1 CR (stock) will be just right..

Long duration traveling, 7% grades over the mountains..Bumping the compression up makes me nervous..

If it takes me 16 seconds to get to 60MPH instead of 14, I can live with that..

Durability is what I want

[Eyez Open]

I was spared the intake cost, a high rise literally will not fit into the dog house there is about 1" of clearance with the stock system.

I'm quite sure your combo will be quite a stout engine.

[Mlw]

I need to find a good optometrist in my area

No need, with me it was exactly the same. I found the numbers by the pictures. The picture I posted was after I cleaned the rods up with the diesel/gas mixture and some numbers still are barely recognisable. I've learned to hit numbers in iron at school and the teacher clearly stated "only one chance to do it so make it a good one". I guess when you are doing it just for your paycheck you just don't give a rats tale about it  (some things never change 😂😂😂)


My engine will be off to the machine shop next monday. I'm seriously considering that if the news is good I let them  build the engine for me as i just can't find the right tools here to do it right, certainly when we need to go as far as changing things for better performance.

[RockwoodMike]

I was spared the intake cost, a high rise literally will not fit into the dog house there is about 1" of clearance with the stock system.

This manifold that is from Edelbrock is not a high rise. Stock height..3 advantages to it over the cast iron intake..
1..It doesn't have the exhaust heating the manifold with the cross over passage..Keeps the carb cooler that way..
2..weight..much lighter than cast iron..

3..And the best reason of all..It looks Great on the engine!!

My engine will be off to the machine shop next monday. I'm seriously considering that if the news is good I let them  build the engine for me as i just can't find the right tools here to do it right, certainly when we need to go as far as changing things for better performance.

My machine shop wanted to build it for me for a price..Turned it down..I want to do that..
But he said it will take about a month to machine it all..They are very back logged..

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Lets see what is inside..

Pic 2..Take off the tail shaft yoke..

Pic 3..Speedometer gear output..

Pic 4..Down in the hole

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Tail shaft off..clean inside..

Pic 2..Inside the pan..small pieces and brown oil..

Pic 3..Filter looks awful

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1.Valve body removed..Top side view

Pic 2..Valve body..Bottom view

Pic 3..10 bolts hold the VB in place..All the same length..No springs or balls that fall away..Nothing loose to worry about..

Pic 4..The guts!!

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Governor control piston..I took the picture to remember the way it goes back in..

Pic 2..Governor sealing rings..It has 2 types of rings..Somebody has done a messed up job on this..

Pic 3..Pump removed showing the back side..

Pic 4..This is the forward clutch..Only engaged going forward..In park, neutral or reverse, it is off..

Look at the snap ring and the last steel in the stack..Way too much clearance..
This trans was opened up before..And really did a terrible job..

I can fix it..I can fix anything!!

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Forward clutch steels and frictions..BURNT!! BAD!!

Pic 2..The other clutch (I think it is the low reverse clutch) BURNT!! BAD!!

Pic 3 and 4..Taken apart guts..It has 4 pinion planetary gears that are the heavy duty set up..

[RockwoodMike]

More take apart pictures showing all the guts..I took these just to help me put it back together..

I am going to make this thing chirp the rear dual wheels!! Well, maybe not..But it will be done heavy duty right

Stay tuned..

[want a rv]

Great thread! Can you provide a link to the 440 compression ratio chart? Thank you.

[RockwoodMike]

With one of these that I bought years ago...

https://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-portable-soda-blaster-60801.html?_br_psugg_q=soda+blaster

And a bag of this...

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-tools/blasting-cleaning/50-lbs-medium-grade-armex-soda-blast-media-65929.html

You can clean a part as bad as this tail section..Pic 1..

to as clean as it is in Pic 2...

Now I need to clean the body..Filthy!!..Pic 3..

You scrape as much grease with a trowel or wood chisel to get the thick stuff off first..Then blast away

[Mlw]

My machine shop wanted to build it for me for a price..Turned it down..I want to do that..
But he said it will take about a month to machine it all..They are very back logged..

Yeah well, I notice you have all the skills and the tools to do that. To get the right tool here you need to be willing to pay hundreds of euro's to buy the tool that you'll probably are going to use just one time. I'm not planning to build engines as a daily job.


Don't know yet what the waiting time for me is going to be. But I guess that for you it's the same as me, it's not a daily driver so it is not a big problem if it's going to take a while. However for me it will be a good thing when I can move the rv, so i can place it on a bridge and under a roof so i can finally can do something about the leaky roof of the RV.

[RockwoodMike]

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/453b0q1ierofzm8r8i3e4/360-440-Dodge-service.rar?rlkey=iiyx2q3rso0umbmfz3mpnesay&dl=0

I'm not planning to build engines as a daily job.

I am not either..I am just keeping myself from having to pay about 800..For that 800, I can buy the tools and learn how to do it myself..
Here is a link to the pages in that service manual that I scanned the electrical from.
This covers the 360 and 440 engines

After the machining is done, to put an engine together is fairly easy..

Tools off the top of my head that you need is a good torque wrench..1/2 drive up to 200 pounds rating..
and a ring compressor..maybe a feeler gauge..

The satisfaction of building it right and then seeing it run because you made it run..Priceless

I just don't like paying for a price for something I can do myself..

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..After all the blasting..About 25-30 minutes..That baking soda cuts it fast..

Pic 2 and 3..Original numbers to the frame..

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1-2..Looking inside..Spotless. What is nice about the soda is it dissolves with water..Flushing all the holes and small areas out with a power washer..

Sand or other solid blasting media will not flush easy and one piece of grit not washed away and it will mess things up..

Pic 3..After the power washing..Then I blew it dry with compressed air..

[RockwoodMike]

Great thread! Can you provide a link to the 440 compression ratio chart? Thank you.

https://ultimatemusclecar.com/mopar-440-compression-ratio-standard-and-440-hp-engine/

I didn't notice your question post..Here is the link

[RockwoodMike]

While I am waiting on the trans parts and the engine machining, here are some pictures of what I am working with when it comes to the frame rails..

Pic 1..Right rail with fuel lines and other tubing..All being ripped out..

Pic 2..On the left rail this is the speedo cable..Frayed to the actual rotating shaft exposed..

Pic 3..Pulled out and on the ground..

Pic 4..Fuel pump for the aux. fuel tank ( next to it is the right engine mount)..It wasn't wired up..This is the tank that I had to cut 2 large holes to clear out the rust..

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 5..This is the relay to activate the starter..Where it is located. is next to impossible to service if it went bad..

Pic 6..Fuel valve for the Aux tank..

Pic 7..A custom bracket to hang the muffler system..Notice the bent bracket and quantity of bailing wire to hold it all together

Pic 8..Some of the junk that is being ripped and replaced

What have I gotten myself into??

[RockwoodMike]

I removed about 6 more feet of the floor just to get access to the frame rails..showing the obsolete vacuum boosters..what a system!!

Random shots showing it all..After everything that needs to be removed is gone then a good power washing is in order..

[Mlw]

I'm not planning to build engines as a daily job.

I am not either..I am just keeping myself from having to pay about 800..For that 800, I can buy the tools and learn how to do it myself.. The satisfaction of building it right and then seeing it run because you made it run..Priceless

 
I just don't like paying for a price for something I can do myself..

 

 

Oh I hear what you are saying and I'm totally agreeing with you. I Promise you, if I had the possibilities for building an engine yourself as you guys have in the USA and covid wouldn't have happened, Betsy would at least been up and running and I probably would have done some test runs allready.

As it is, I just lost a complete year finding a machine shop that wanted to help me. Buying tools like a dial bore gauge, and a micrometer will set me back at least $1,000,=  You can rent these things (for free) or buy them for affordable prices in the USA because. building or reparing cars yourself is still a thing. Here majority of people lease cars. Everything is taken care off. As soon as the car gives an error, you take it to your lease company, and you'll be given an replacement car until it's repaired. Hell, the majority of car owners nowadays probably don't even know how to fill up the oil level if it's low. Back in the eighties every small village had at least one service stations with at least one mechanic that could help you fix problems with you car. It's all gone. The Netherlands in the past millenium and nowadays are two totally different countries that are incomparable.

But it is what it is. No use crying over spilled milk, Again thank you for all your help and the links. I truly appreciate it.