Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

[RockwoodMike]

I received my new cam shaft this morning..

I love the smell of machine oil in the morning!!! It reminds me of..of..well I am not sure what it reminds me of!

Just love the smell..

Here is the cam and the specs..This is a low end torque setup..

[LJ-TJ]

Mike I gotta tell ya mate,  you are the envy of every Classic Winnebago Owner. Between you and Dave have to be the two most amazing guys when it comes to owning one of these old girls. I can't imagine how many guys you have inspired to take on projects they wouldn't have thought of doing until you two came along. And lets not forget Mark who keeps all this together for us. Every day is like Christmas Morning waiting to see what new project you've taken on, done and how to do it. Keep up the great work. Love it. Respectfully T.J.

P.S. Thanks to all the others who contribute to the site because with out your help these old girls would have gone the way of the scrape yard by now.

[RockwoodMike]

Hi T.J.

Thanks for the Kind words..I am expecting two big items to keep going with this project..

The engine at the machine shop is suppose to be ready this week

And the parts needed to rebuild the transmission will be delivered tomorrow..At least that is what tracking says..

In the center of winter and hard to get away from the inside fireplace and go outside..

Here is a couple of picture showing an overall look of it..

There is nothing stopping me to complete this project..Just waiting for the weather to warm up some..

[Eyez Open]

In regards towards you cam, actually you may well know already. Hyd Flat Tappets and "Lifters" are having big issues. Spring pressure and Zinc seem highly critical. What once was taken for granted is not so much anymore. The world is changing.


https://www.chevelles.com/threads/flat-tappet-cam-failures-solved.1170029/page-2#replies

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/the-flat-tappet-state-of-affairs.1171868/

[RockwoodMike]

Hyd Flat Tappets and "Lifters" are having big issues. Spring pressure and Zinc seem highly critical.

I know exactly what you are saying!!A big stink on the world wide innerweb about a cam manufacture that has a name that rhymes with stomp..

Here is a good vid from "Just Mopar Joe"

In the picture of mine, the tube of red paste came with the cam..It is a liquid that will drip off ,leaving your cam on the dry side if you are not starting it right away..

Having your shaft not lubed right is a bad thing  

I am going to use the stuff on the left..It is a heavy grease that is stuffed with Zinc..That is the magic mineral that also needs to be in the oil at start up..

I have read many stories like the one that you linked to..But I noticed something that wiped cams(destroyed) have in common..

The engine builder starts the engine for the 20-25 minute break in..But almost immediately (maybe 2-3 minutes in) he shuts the engine off because there is  problem with the engine..

Maybe the timing is off..an oil leak..something..shuts off the engine and then restarts it...BAD BAD BAD!!!

Now the cam is dry because it was several minutes before the restart..And that wipes the cam ...

Keep the engine running..Have fuel in the carb to keep from long cranking..set your timing right..If a valve cover is leaking, keep running it..you can fix it later..

It is the restart that is killing the cam..don't do it..

[RockwoodMike]

[RockwoodMike]

I did a little work on the battery tray..Rusty crusty from acid spillage

Pic 1..pretty bad shape but it is thick metal and wasn't burnt through with the battery acid

Pic 2..Quick sand blast to remove the crust.

Pic 3..First coat of the rusty metal oil based primer from Rustolium..maybe another coat of the primer and then 2-3 layers of the satin black top coat ..

[Mlw]

There is nothing stopping me to complete this project..Just waiting for the weather to warm up some..

Hear Hear!!!

The temperatures in the Netherlands are between 28 – 16 degrees Fahrenheit at the moment with a feeling temperature of 16 – 3 degrees Fahrenheit because of the Northeastern wind.

I was hoping to sandblast and paint my rims, but with these temperatures the paint is never going to dry.

I received my transmission revision kits as well but forgot to order the assembly goo with it.   



So nothing else to do then sit in a rocking chair by the fireplace. Only problem, I haven't got them...   

[RockwoodMike]

I received my engine back from the machine shop..Needs some final cleaning after I put it back on the engine stand..

Pic 1..Here it is on the tailgate of my pickup....Bored .030 over stock. Deck was done with just a clean up pass..No deep cutting..Crank main caps were line honed..New cam bearings..new freeze plugs..

Pic 2..Here is the steel crank(not cast)..It did not need to be cut down..Just a light polish..

Pic 3..Heads..All new valves..Exhaust seats..guides..seals and then a light clean up deck cut..

Pic 4..Everything else..Pump, rings, piston rods, gasket set, valley pan..

Everything is home and ready..Gotta get busy!!

[RockwoodMike]

Doing the math for the .030 over bore..What is the cubic inches??

Pie R squared is the area of a circle..My pistons are now 4.35 inches (stock is 4.32)
Making the area at 14.862 inches...

14.862x 3.75(stroke of crank) = 55.73 cubic inches..That is the displacement of 1 cylinder..

55.73 x 8 = 445.85 cubic inches

A stock engine 440 is actually 439.72 cubic inches

[RockwoodMike]

I need to open another thread for this rebuild..But I need to get the transmission done to get it out of the way..I don't have any room to have both engine and tranny going at the same time..

Here is a picture of the flat area at the front of the engine..Code for something..

[Eyez Open]

Just cast codes

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/a-guide-to-mopar-v8-cylinder-head-and-block-casting-numbers/

[RockwoodMike]

OOOOH!! WOW..!!

Thanks for the link Eyez.. ..There is a bunch to look at..

I will need to look at the block in the morning, but I brought the heads inside my house and could look close at them..

3751213 is the cast number..Just for motorhomes..and what makes them unique are the 2 holes that allow coolant to flow around the spark plugs..and the matching block with the holes..

[RockwoodMike]

This is interesting..There is no serial number stamped in the location it is suppose to be..Just blank..As pic 1 shows

Pic 2 shows the casting number..Easy to read now that it has been cleaned.

[Schmitti]

Big & great Work    I remember my work on my `76er Chieftain 

Greetings from Germany
Thomas

[RockwoodMike]

Hi Schmitti !!

Greetings from California, USA !!

All this restore is a bunch of work..Seems as though it will never end..

[Eyez Open]

Pic 1..Edelbrock carb and I know nothing about them..Just know that this is NOT the stock carb..

Pic 2..After removing the carb ..Big thick plate under it..

Pic 3..Big difference between the primary and secondary plates.


Now that is interesting it would seem Edelbroch copied the entire line from Rochester/Thermoquad. That might mean you can trim the low midrange fuel circuit. APT function.




https://www.carburetion.com/Rochester.asp

The 1905 is near the bottom

[RockwoodMike]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1913

Maybe just set that old carb on a shelf and get this new one..800cfm is plenty for a mild 440

[70Chieftain]

I was going to mention that Comp has a new DLC (Diamond Like Coating) flat tappet lifter, but it looks like they only have it for Chevy...

[Eyez Open]

Rebuilding a RV or a engine actually is a very personal kind of thing. My money goes towards a rebuild, Rochesters take no second place to any carb when done right. Square bores are superior above 500 up true...but I am biased you see I grew up building quads hated it at the time but now it's quite pleasing, and I can tinker with them and know what to expect.

Any way you go you can't lose...except uncle Benjamin's which I do with startling ease.

[RockwoodMike]

Any way you go you can't lose...except uncle Benjamin's which I do with startling ease.

I understand what you are saying..This project is costing me a fortune..It is all worth it..Right??

You made me take a second look at this carb..Here are some pics showing all of it's infinite glory 

I guess the first step is finding a kit and then some sort of PDF manual with instruction how to tear it down..

I found this video on a new method(to me it is) to make these zinc and aluminum part like new..

I have an old Motorcraft carb core, that I will try this method on..

[RockwoodMike]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/330611458681

Original Edelbrock kits are in the 130-150 range..

Just ordered this Ebay kit..Lot better price!

https://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=1904

[Eyez Open]

Is it to late to order another kit? Ruggles kits are complete with everything you need. For instance idle mixture screws. His kits are 99 and complete no missing parts

[RockwoodMike]

https://cliffshighperformance.com/product/hp-quadrajet-rebuild-carb-kits

Wow!! I wish I had seen this earlier..Yea the kit I bought is on it's way..If it is missing something, I will look at this kit again

[Eyez Open]

https://cliffshighperformance.com/product/hp-quadrajet-rebuild-carb-kits

Wow!! I wish I had seen this earlier..Yea the kit I bought is on it's way..If it is missing something, I will look at this kit again

That is the kit. Do yourself a favor call Ruggles and explain what your doing, asking for a little guidance. I've done just that, he's actually quite friendly as matter of fact. Get the numbers of your jets and your carb numbers as well. And yes he is knowledgeable enough to to tell you what you need right off the top of his head. By the way HP kits are generic, one needs carb no to get the right gaskets..
Small but big differences are present

Not A good guy to aruge with however he knows his game well. Aside from HEI tinkering lol that's another story I have no wish to expound on.