Click NO START AGAIN! ARGH!

[mytoolman]

 First my questions then a history for all of you who get bored reading a long story.
Question #1 Is the Ignition Switch for a 1973 D100 truck the same as the ignition switch we have in our 1973 2200 RM400/M500 Superior Motor Coaches that have the 440-01 engine???

 Question #2 Is it reasonable to believe that my present ignition switch is why I have the click only situation???  I think I have isolated the click only to it but with the present reliability at an all time low for replacement new parts I am low in confidence that my replacement starter is not also bad.....I have until June 19th to fix this or there will be government type of trouble.

 Question #3 Does anyone have a source for a new ignition switch for my rig???

Back Story: In 2014 My rig a 1973 2200 Rm400/M500 Superior Motor Coach with 440 engine came to me not able to have it turn over when trying to start it. The prior owner had it parked in at a lake he worked at and lived in it there. I saw his efforts to fix that no crank situation. He had a replacement starter, there was a new solenoid there and there were other indications of his efforts that I just dont remember now.

I labored for 90 days back then to figure out why this click only or sometimes VERY slow crack over speed of the engine was happening. I could sometimes get the engine to turn over back then but when cranking back then it did so very slowly/ It really labored to turn.  Once I even got it started and it ran well enough for needing serious carburetor work. The over riding thing was it would only click when turning the key to the start position most of the time. It did this with new battery AND even with a battery charger set to 200 amp "start up mode" setting attached.

In replacing the battery cables as part of my fix, Back in 2014, somehow I neglected to see that there was NO GROUND STRAP from the ENGINE TO THE FRAME. Additionally,  I had actually burnt up the starter in all my 90 days worth of previous attempts to start this rig. Two things needed work to get my rig to start back then, a replacement starter to replace the one the prior owner had put in AND A GROUND STRAP from the engine block to the frame. That new looking starter likely came to me pretty internally damaged by all of the prior owner's attempts to start the rig without also having a ground strap between the engine block and the frame.

To clarify, Relying on the bolts that hold the motor mounts to the frame as the ONLY source of a starting system ground is VERY insufficient and causes lots of resistance to the flow of electricity.

 Resistance means things that are in the circuit get way to hot. That high resistance is what seized up that new looking for appearance 20 lb cast iron starter that the prior owner has installed. To date this particular starter is the only starter for ANY vehicle I have ever owned or ever seen personally that was completely melted inside and locked up like that. Looks can be deceiving, I overlooked that starter as being part of the problem for much of my diagnosis those first 90 days because it looked so fresh. My previous history of never having one fail so completely also delayed the fix.

Lack of ground can cause other unintended damage to happen. The starter circuit was searching by itself to find more ground. Electricity wants to flow easily.  There is a physics law about that. Electricity looks for the easiest way to flow. Missing a free flowing ground that a ground strap provides, The flow of electricity tried to use the engine's dip stick tube as a ground. The thin waft of smoke that came out of the tube that last time I tried to start this rig without the ground strap in place was my ah ha moment. The fact that the accelerator cable was seized also now made sense. The nylon sheath that the inner cable runs against inside that cable had been melted when the starter circuit tried to also use that throttle cable as a ground.

After 90 days of hair pulling type of trying I had a running engine with the turn of the key. I noticed then that the ignition switch was worn out. Its spring that moves the key automatically from the start position to the run position is broken. For years now I have been manually moving the key from the start position to the run position. This steering column has a worn out ignition switch AND a broken turn signal mechanism. Neither the ignition switch nor the turn signal switch have been easy to find. I see things that look like they work from other Dodge products but just dont know if they actually are the same so many parts were unique to this Superior. I need confirmation that the 1973 D100 Dodge truck ignition switch will work in my rig

I sold the rig to a friend in 2016. He did nothing to this rig and sold it back to me in 2018. He let me keep it on the Navy storage he had here in San Diego.

In 2019 I found a commercial repair shop 20 miles south of me in Tijuana Mexico. This rig had suffered roof damage likely from a tree limb in the past. It had been repaired very poorly. I wanted to drive my rig for its first real drive to that Mexican shop. I had been working tirelessly to get my brakes shored up and had done a full tune up with carburetor overhaul. I changed out all the fluids also so I felt like I could make this drive.

Before going on this Mexican trip the rig once again was experiencing the the labored crank over thing to the point it wouldnt crank fast enough for the engine to fire up. I believed that my friend had used low batteries to start this rig in the time he had it and had damaged the starter that I put in back in 2014.

I took the starter back to O'Reilly auto parts to exercise its "lifetime" warranty. I installed the new starter and took this rig to Mexico. It was in that shop to have the roof replaced for 4 months. They did a great job replacing the galvanized
roof with new galvanized 20 gauge sheets of metal.

Now today. My rig lives on a friends 2 acre semi rural property here in San Diego that his mom bought 50 years ago. My friend wrestles with weeds and a father that has a propensity to change out semi truck body parts and leave the old parts on that property for extended periods. The area around this property has grown so ihis land is not nearly as rural as it once was . He also has several cars that are in some form of repair that he has aspirations of fixing etc so it was starting to look a lot like a junk yard. The county of San Diego took notice and has been forcing changes. They have a rule that the engine must be able to start. He has done an amazing job of cleaning up the junk. The county inspector guy is coming on June 20th to verify any car or rig outside on the property will fire up.

Since then the brakes have become inoperative again. Im in the process of transforming from twin hydrovac type brakes to instead install a hydrobooster. So there is that also.

Unbelievably to me, My rig has developed the "CLICK ONLY" syndrome when turning the key. Ive AGAIN replaced the starter that I did just before I went to Mexico. It was only two years old.  I dont know if the Mexicans had battery problems with my rig down there. The battery was two years old for them. When I went to drive it away from Mexico the battery was stone dead. Back then I bought a new large 900 CCA battery and drove it to my friends plot of land.

A few days ago I once again only experiencing a click when turning the key, I removed the 2 year old starter that I estimate might have 60 starts on back to O'Reilly Auto Parts and had it replaced. I had both the starter I was bringing them AND the one they gave me as its replacement tested on their test machine. Both worked. The old one sounded a little different it had a little labored sounding whine than the new replacement so I though under load maybe this one I had removed had a problem.

The replacement starter doesnt start this rig. I went through and removed every ground strap and shined up both the frame and the end of the ground that touches the frame. I looked and cleaned every ground connection. None were found horrible but now there is shinny iron touching shinny copper everywhere. The battery is fully charged. I even have tried the 200 amp charger start mode again. The engine turns with the normal amount of resistance I expect by using a ratchet and socket on the front crank shaft bolt. 

I ordered a new solenoid even though this Motor Craft one in it looks new from my last no crank to start episode before going to Mexico.  ANY SUGGESTIONS? Should I run a Universal type of ignition switch to bypass all the original system and its original starter circuit wiring harness? This no crank situation is super problematic especially in this rig where it seems to reoccur every so often.

[RockwoodMike]

First my questions then a history for all of you who get bored reading a long story.
Question #1 Is the Ignition Switch for a 1973 D100 truck the same as the ignition switch we have in our 1973 2200 RM400/M500 Superior Motor Coaches that have the 440-01 engine???

 Question #2 Is it reasonable to believe that my present ignition switch is why I have the click only situation???  I think I have isolated the click only to it but with the present reliability at an all time low for replacement new parts I am low in confidence that my replacement starter is not also bad.....I have until June 19th to fix this or there will be government type of trouble.

 Question #3 Does anyone have a source for a new ignition switch for my rig???

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1973,d100+pickup,7.2l+440cid+v8,1083675,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

Take a look at this switch from Rock Auto..Chrysler was pretty universal when it came to parts interchanging between models..

But I don't think you need a switch..
If you are hearing a loud click, the ignition switch is doing it's job..getting solenoid power down to the starter.

That click is the solenoid moving forward to throw the starter gear to engage with the flywheel ring gear..

[Elandan2]

I agree with Rockwood Mike, the ignition switch isn't the problem. Check the wires from the battery to the starter relay and then to the starter. That wire is "hot" all the time, the actual "switch" to run the starter motor is inside the starter, activated by the solenoid. It seems like you are not getting sufficient power to the starter from the battery. Check for any defects in the cables and the connection at the relay.

[mytoolman]

First my questions then a history for all of you who get bored reading a long story.
Question #1 Is the Ignition Switch for a 1973 D100 truck the same as the ignition switch we have in our 1973 2200 RM400/M500 Superior Motor Coaches that have the 440-01 engine???

 Question #2 Is it reasonable to believe that my present ignition switch is why I have the click only situation???  I think I have isolated the click only to it but with the present reliability at an all time low for replacement new parts I am low in confidence that my replacement starter is not also bad.....I have until June 19th to fix this or there will be government type of trouble.

 Question #3 Does anyone have a source for a new ignition switch for my rig???

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1973,d100+pickup,7.2l+440cid+v8,1083675,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

Take a look at this switch from Rock Auto..Chrysler was pretty universal when it came to parts interchanging between models..

But I don't think you need a switch..
If you are hearing a loud click, the ignition switch is doing it's job..getting solenoid power down to the starter.

That click is the solenoid moving forward to throw the starter gear to engage with the flywheel ring gear..

This switch is bad. IN THE START POSITION this switch allows current through to engage the bendix which is good and is allowing the click of the bendix.

 BUT the voltage needed at the coil is LOST WHEH THE SWITCH RETUNS TO RUN. There isn't voltage for a signal in the Run position.

I wired in a temporary UNIVERSAL SWITCH Ive had in my wiring junk box for 35 years. Using this universal switch the 12v goes where it belongs.

 Also found bad, with high resistance, was the cable from the "through post of the solenoid to the starter. Replacing it even with the bad original ignition switch operated spun the engine fast and free but wouldn't let it fire because there ALSO WAS NO SPARK.

That's when I Wired in the Universal key switch. I wired it to be removable using alligator clamps. Even with this universal switch now in play there STILL WASNT ANY SPARK. There WAS NOW power at the coil though with this universal switch in play.

I've had enough with the original quirkiness and complexity, at this point unreliablity of the original, antique Chrysler Generation one ground breaking in its time, electronic ignition. $40 bought a highly reliable, available everywhere, and simple to add 4pin GM HEI ignition module (Standard Ignition part# LX301)that I easily wired in.

 I left the old components mounted and didn't cut the plug off of the distributor wires. I USED A FEMALE AND A MALE BULLET CONNECTOR to add the GM module to the distributor's plug.

 If down the line someone wants that Chrysler ignition back operational all they will have to do is exchange out the INTERNAL RESISTED COIL I ALSO ADDED with the EXTERNAL RESISTANCE TYPE that was in play with the ChryslerGen One, plug the harness back into the distributor connector AND determine what failed in that antique system that prevented spark to happen.

My rig's engine spins on the click of the universal keyed ignition switch half a turn and roars to run. This engine has never turned as freely when cranking.

That Cable from the solenoid stud to the starter I ve reused through 4 starters in 10 years has more than just likely been bad the whole time.

 One more thing, I didn't find any issues, but notvwanting to chance missing something, I also removed the 3 engine to frame Ground straps I have in play and hit them and where they mount on the frame and engine block with a cordless 90 degree Milwaukee die Grinder with a rolock abrasive wheel to double check the best cleanest ground possible was happening.

This episode was troublesome because so much had failed AND Because I choose to overlook the use of my multi meter on that cable because "it looked so good" Dont skip or otherwise discount steps unless you want frustration.

[mytoolman]

First my questions then a history for all of you who get bored reading a long story.
Question #1 Is the Ignition Switch for a 1973 D100 truck the same as the ignition switch we have in our 1973 2200 RM400/M500 Superior Motor Coaches that have the 440-01 engine???

 Question #2 Is it reasonable to believe that my present ignition switch is why I have the click only situation???  I think I have isolated the click only to it but with the present reliability at an all time low for replacement new parts I am low in confidence that my replacement starter is not also bad.....I have until June 19th to fix this or there will be government type of trouble.

 Question #3 Does anyone have a source for a new ignition switch for my rig???

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1973,d100+pickup,7.2l+440cid+v8,1083675,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

Take a look at this switch from Rock Auto..Chrysler was pretty universal when it came to parts interchanging between models..

But I don't think you need a switch..
If you are hearing a loud click, the ignition switch is doing it's job..getting solenoid power down to the starter.

That click is the solenoid moving forward to throw the starter gear to engage with the flywheel ring gear..

Thank you for responding and the Rock auto switch links...This switch IS BAD.  IN THE START POSITION this switch allows current through to engage the bendix which is good and is allowing the click of the bendix as designed.

BUT the voltage needed at the coil is LOST WHEH THE SWITCH RETUNS TO RUN. There isn't voltage for a signal in the Run position.

I wired in a temporary UNIVERSAL Keyed ignition SWITCH Ive had in my wiring junk box for 35 years. Using this universal igniton switch, the 12v goes where it belongs.

Also found bad, with high resistance, was the cable from the "through post" of the solenoid to the starter. Replacing ithis bad cable, even with the bad original ignition switch operated, spun the engine fast and free. However the now nicely spinning over engine WOULD  NOT  FIRE UP because there ALSO WAS NO SPARK.

That's when I Wired in the Universal key switch. I wired it to be easily removable using alligator clamps.

Even with this universal switch now in play there STILL WASNT ANY SPARK. There WAS NOW power at the coil though with this universal switch in play.

I've had enough with the original quirkiness, complexity, and at this point unreliablity of the original, antique Chrysler Generation one, ground breaking in its time, electronic ignition.

 $40 bought a highly reliable, available everywhere, and simple to add 4pin GM HEI ignition module (Standard Ignition part# LX301)that I easily wired in.

I left the old Chrysler Electronic Ignition components mounted as they always have been and didn't cut the plug off of the distributor wires. I USED A FEMALE AND A MALE BULLET CONNECTOR to add the GM module to the distributor's plug.

If down the line someone wants that Chrysler ignition back operational all they will have to do is exchange out the INTERNAL RESISTED COIL I ALSO ADDED with the EXTERNAL RESISTANCE TYPE that was in play with the ChryslerGen One, plug the harness back into the distributor connector AND determine what failed in that antique system that prevented spark to happen.

My rig's engine spins on the click of the universal keyed ignition switch half a turn and roars to run. This engine has never turned as freely when cranking.

That Cable from the solenoid stud to the starter I ve reused through 4 starters in 10 years has more than just likely been bad the whole time.

One more thing, I didn't find any issues, but not wanting to chance missing something, I also removed the 3 engine to frame Ground straps I have in play and hit them and where they mount on the frame and engine block with a cordless 90 degree Milwaukee die Grinder with a rolock abrasive wheel to double check the best, cleanest ground possible was happening.

This episode was troublesome because so much had failed AND Because I choose to overlook the use of my multi meter on that cable because "it looked so good"
Dont skip or otherwise discount steps unless you want frustration.

[mytoolman]

First my questions then a history for all of you who get bored reading a long story.
Question #1 Is the Ignition Switch for a 1973 D100 truck the same as the ignition switch we have in our 1973 2200 RM400/M500 Superior Motor Coaches that have the 440-01 engine???

 Question #2 Is it reasonable to believe that my present ignition switch is why I have the click only situation???  I think I have isolated the click only to it but with the present reliability at an all time low for replacement new parts I am low in confidence that my replacement starter is not also bad.....I have until June 19th to fix this or there will be government type of trouble.

 Question #3 Does anyone have a source for a new ignition switch for my rig???

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1973,d100+pickup,7.2l+440cid+v8,1083675,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

Take a look at this switch from Rock Auto..Chrysler was pretty universal when it came to parts interchanging between models..

But I don't think you need a switch..
If you are hearing a loud click, the ignition switch is doing it's job..getting solenoid power down to the starter.

That click is the solenoid moving forward to throw the starter gear to engage with the flywheel ring gear..

This switch is bad. IN THE START POSITION this switch allows current through to engage the bendix which is good and is allowing the click of the bendix.

BUT the voltage needed at the coil is LOST WHEH THE SWITCH RETUNS TO RUN. There isn't voltage for a signal in the Run position.

I wired in a temporary UNIVERSAL SWITCH Ive had in my wiring junk box for 35 years. Using this universal switch the 12v goes where it belongs.

Also found bad, with high resistance, was the cable from the "through post of the solenoid to the starter. Replacing it even with the bad original ignition switch operated spun the engine fast and free but wouldn't let it fire because there ALSO WAS NO SPARK.

That's when I Wired in the Universal key switch. I wired it to be removable using alligator clamps. Even with this universal switch now in play there STILL WASNT ANY SPARK. There WAS NOW power at the coil though with this universal switch in play.

I've had enough with the original quirkiness and complexity, at this point unreliablity of the original, antique Chrysler Generation one ground breaking in its time, electronic ignition. $40 bought a highly reliable, available everywhere, and simple to add 4pin GM HEI ignition module (Standard Ignition part# LX301)that I easily wired in.

I left the old components mounted and didn't cut the plug off of the distributor wires. I USED A FEMALE AND A MALE BULLET CONNECTOR to add the GM module to the distributor's plug.

If down the line someone wants that Chrysler ignition back operational all they will have to do is exchange out the INTERNAL RESISTED COIL I ALSO ADDED with the EXTERNAL RESISTANCE TYPE that was in play with the ChryslerGen One, plug the harness back into the distributor connector AND determine what failed in that antique system that prevented spark to happen.

My rig's engine spins on the click of the universal keyed ignition switch half a turn and roars to run. This engine has never turned as freely when cranking.

That Cable from the solenoid stud to the starter I ve reused through 4 starters in 10 years has more than just likely been bad the whole time.

One more thing, I didn't find any issues, but notvwanting to chance missing something, I also removed the 3 engine to frame Ground straps I have in play and hit them and where they mount on the frame and engine block with a cordless 90 degree Milwaukee die Grinder with a rolock abrasive wheel to double check the best cleanest ground possible was happening.

This episode was troublesome because so much had failed AND Because I choose to overlook the use of my multi meter on that cable because "it looked so good" Dont skip or otherwise discount steps unless you want frustration.

[mytoolman]

I agree with Rockwood Mike, the ignition switch isn't the problem. Check the wires from the battery to the starter relay and then to the starter. That wire is "hot" all the time, the actual "switch" to run the starter motor is inside the starter, activated by the solenoid. It seems like you are not getting sufficient power to the starter from the battery. Check for any defects in the cables and the connection at the relay.

BINGO THAT CABLE FROM THE SOLENOID " THROUGH POST" TO THE STARTER IS BAD. its likely been bad for 10 years. Each time (4X) I ve replaced this starter I've reused this cable because "it looked good" jostling the cable to do a starter install probably made it function right then and for a period beyond until this latest starterwhwre this cable just said NO. Some time I may cut its insulation jacket off to see why it's bad...or not...If you are interested read my  extensive reply to RockwoodMike for all of what had to be determined and done to fire this engine.

[mytoolman]

I agree with Rockwood Mike, the ignition switch isn't the problem. Check the wires from the battery to the starter relay and then to the starter. That wire is "hot" all the time, the actual "switch" to run the starter motor is inside the starter, activated by the solenoid. It seems like you are not getting sufficient power to the starter from the battery. Check for any defects in the cables and the connection at the relay.

BINGO THAT CABLE FROM THE SOLENOID " THROUGH POST" TO THE STARTER IS BAD. its likely been bad for 10 years. Each time (4X) I ve replaced this starter I've reused this cable because "it looked good" jostling the cable to do a starter install probably made it function right then and for a period beyond until this latest starterwhwre this cable just said NO. Some time I may cut its insulation jacket off to see why it's bad...or not...

[RockwoodMike]

BUT the voltage needed at the coil is LOST WHEH THE SWITCH RETUNS TO RUN. There isn't voltage for a signal in the Run position

At the beginning of all this, I thought you were describing a "Click..No Crank" condition..

If you are saying that the coil has power only during the crank but no power at the run position, then a good chance is the Ceramic ballast resister that is famous for failure..

The key switch has 2 powers to the ignition..Crank and run..During crank position full power is applied to the ignition coil..That is usually about 10-11 volts because of the large draw of power from the starter..

Then when it starts and the key is turned to the run position, power goes through the ballast resister to provide about 8 volts to the ignition system ..With a bad resistor, you get nothing to the coil..

Anyway, glad you got it running..That is Great to read

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

You said RM400/M500 which has the 3 gauge dash panel rather than the older rectangle gauge panel.  Even so, Starter circuit is the same for all chassis' except the rectangle dash configurations did not have the White Half Moon connector at base of steering wheel.  Wire colors and gauges were the same though.

So Next Time to test the Start Circuit:

Ref Info:
Ensure Gear Shift in Park so Rig will not move and Neutral Safety Switch in START position
Starter Solinoid (NAPA ECH SR13):
  B screw terminal: 6 Gauge Red cable from Battery, 6 Gauge Red cable to Starter, 14 Gauge Fusible link to Main power (Circuit S1, 10 Gauge, Red wire)
  S Terminal: 12 Gauge brown wire to Starter Solinoid
  I Terminal: 18 Gauge Orange wire (Circuit J18) to Ignition Switch Start Terminal
  G Terminal: 18 Gauge dark green with white stripe wire (Circuit N1) to Neutral Safety switch.  Grounded at Neutral Switch when gearshift is in Park or Neutral.
  The G and I terminals are the relay coil. G terminal gets GROUNDED by the Neutral Safety switch so that the 12VDC start signal on the I terminal from the Ignition switch has a path to ground.

Test 1:  Test starter (Key OFF): On rear of starter, jumper between Large battery post and small Solinoid post to see if Starter will crank engine.  If Engine Cranks then next step, else
Starter bad, Motor Froze, or no B+ battery voltage at starter B+ terminal

Test 2: Test cabling to starter (Key OFF): At Starter Solinoid On Frame: Jumper from large B+ terminal (6 Gauge Red Cable) on Solinoid to "S" terminal (12 Gauge Brown Wire) on Starter Solinoid.  If Engine cranks then next step, else
Either the Battery cable or Solinoid wire between Starter Solinoid and Starter is OPEN.  (Your issue on brown wire)

Test 3: Test Starter Solinoid (Key OFF): At Starter Solinoid On Frame: Jumper from large B+ terminal (6 Gauge Red Cable) on Solinoid to "I" terminal (18 Gauge Orange Wire) on Starter Solinoid.  If Engine cranks then next step, else
Starter Solinoid is defective, replace Starter Solinoid

Test 4:Test Ignition Switch Start Signal: Connect a test light between Starter Solinoid "I" terminal and ground. Set Ignition Switch to START then verify Test light lights.  If it does NOT light, then next step, else
Start circuit is operating properly so test of start circuit is complete

Test 5:Test Ignition Switch Start Signal at Steering Column Connector: At base of steering column white half moon Ignition Switch connector, on the ignition switch side, connect a test light between the Orange 18 gauge wire terminal and ground. Set Ignition Switch to START then verify Test light lit.  If it does NOT light (no signal from ignition switch), then next step, else if the test light does light then
the ignition switch is OK so the problem is either in the White half moon Ignition Switch connector at base of steering wheel or the 18 gauge orange wire (Circuit J18) leading back to the Starter Solinoid is OPEN.

Test 6: Verify B+ to ignition Switch: At base of steering column white half moon Ignition Switch connector, on ignition switch side, connect test light to 12 gauge Black wire to ignition switch.
If test light is Lit, then ignition switch is bad or cabling to ignition switch is open.
If the test light is NOT lit, then either the White half moon Ignition Switch connector at base of steering wheel or the 12 gauge Black wire (Circuit A20B) leading back to the Starter Solinoid is OPEN.

Test of START circuit is complete

Removal of Steering Column mounted Ignition Switch (Dodge P/N 3738077; Rock Auto or STANDARD IGNITION US-88 - Ignition Starter Switch) is discussed in Steering Column R/R in steering section of Motorhome Service Manual

[mytoolman]

BUT the voltage needed at the coil is LOST WHEH THE SWITCH RETUNS TO RUN. There isn't voltage for a signal in the Run position

At the beginning of all this, I thought you were describing a "Click..No Crank" condition..

If you are saying that the coil has power only during the crank but no power at the run position, then a good chance is the Ceramic ballast resister that is famous for failure..

The key switch has 2 powers to the ignition..Crank and run..During crank position full power is applied to the ignition coil..That is usually about 10-11 volts because of the large draw of power from the starter..

Then when it starts and the key is turned to the run position, power goes through the ballast resister to provide about 8 volts to the ignition system ..With a bad resistor, you get nothing to the coil..

Anyway, glad you got it running..That is Great to read

THANKS for taking the time to reply. I was describing a click no crank situation. Once that click thing was fixed no spark was also then found.

YES you are correct It's  likely that ceramic piece is ALSO non functional as you mentioned.

 The $80 conversion I just did to get it running eliminated that ceramic thing AND the rest of the Chrysler Electronic Ignition components EXCEPT THE DISTRIBUTOR. I suggest anyone who has a 1st Generation Chrysler Electronic Ignition do this very easy to accomplish and inexpensive conversion.

Do you have a lead on the ENTIRE turn signal/harness mechanism? I haven't completely decided to instead change out this original column.

 I'm considering a replacement TILT type Summit Racing column since I need both the key switch AND turn signal mechanisms.  Buying the Summit item will cost about $100 more than just buying those 2 switch type items and then I won't have to install them.

I'll have to wire the wires coming out of the end of any Summit column into this rig's harness if I go that way. Since this rig's harness is all jacked up for this circuit I am having to redo wiring anyway. What's  there now has to have electrical tape to keep the 7pin(?) Female and male plug connected.

[RockwoodMike]

The $80 conversion I just did to get it running eliminated that ceramic thing AND the rest of the Chrysler Electronic Ignition components EXCEPT THE DISTRIBUTOR. I suggest anyone who has a 1st Generation Chrysler Electronic Ignition do this very easy to accomplish and inexpensive conversion

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153870268121?epid=236337376&itmmeta=01J10GJ37YFRBK9H38PNN2SP8V&hash=item23d361f6d9:g:epsAAOSwpuRkCCzc&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8AR2KQp9aBeh1OwATi09omWMaBS8PtwKT80Ij14F1AsWki9I7uLKf5c8ZH0PjeSSFMce4yFoSB06Z20C6rcL5zhkwiQM5DGwoXhzi4%2FV2m%2ByJOIZmTbDc0xsoreKHW0VjvBgQLwPZGzW2LDjKoppP4%2BDn5%2FveTZk23lxp%2Fh1FQ7lCIrz151sUVHcZ4ULRnyY6styWR20eOsJ4FK%2BtXSE5NdLgWYtyeAWiVewhPCSIkShgnoIyaRLnAJcFrrMNwzIKkWsFa37C%2FtAdoxXVy%2B0oFvpYI5p2SVtKQoSdcNuHc8pesGuKdQ9%2BV7hN7gaiBy4Ow%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4S0yJCIZA

That is the exact conversion that I will do..Be sure you have a good heat sink for the HEI. It needs it!! And I was thinking of installing it in the cab area away from the heat of the engine..

A quality HEI that isn't a China import is hard to find without large dollars involved..

But when everything is right, you can eliminate the ceramic resister, open the gap on the plugs to .044-.045 range instead of the .035 it originally had..Good quality 40K coil with good 8mm plug wires and you will have a very strong ignition system..

[mytoolman]

You said RM400/M500 which has the 3 gauge dash panel rather than the older rectangle gauge panel.  Even so, Starter circuit is the same for all chassis' except the rectangle dash configurations did not have the White Half Moon connector at base of steering wheel.  Wire colors and gauges were the same though.

So Next Time to test the Start Circuit:

Ref Info:
Ensure Gear Shift in Park so Rig will not move and Neutral Safety Switch in START position
Starter Solinoid (NAPA ECH SR13):
  B screw terminal: 6 Gauge Red cable from Battery, 6 Gauge Red cable to Starter, 14 Gauge Fusible link to Main power (Circuit S1, 10 Gauge, Red wire)
  S Terminal: 12 Gauge brown wire to Starter Solinoid
  I Terminal: 18 Gauge Orange wire (Circuit J18) to Ignition Switch Start Terminal
  G Terminal: 18 Gauge dark green with white stripe wire (Circuit N1) to Neutral Safety switch.  Grounded at Neutral Switch when gearshift is in Park or Neutral.
  The G and I terminals are the relay coil. G terminal gets GROUNDED by the Neutral Safety switch so that the 12VDC start signal on the I terminal from the Ignition switch has a path to ground.

Test 1:  Test starter (Key OFF): On rear of starter, jumper between Large battery post and small Solinoid post to see if Starter will crank engine.  If Engine Cranks then next step, else
Starter bad, Motor Froze, or no B+ battery voltage at starter B+ terminal

Test 2: Test cabling to starter (Key OFF): At Starter Solinoid On Frame: Jumper from large B+ terminal (6 Gauge Red Cable) on Solinoid to "S" terminal (12 Gauge Brown Wire) on Starter Solinoid.  If Engine cranks then next step, else
Either the Battery cable or Solinoid wire between Starter Solinoid and Starter is OPEN.  (Your issue on brown wire)

Test 3: Test Starter Solinoid (Key OFF): At Starter Solinoid On Frame: Jumper from large B+ terminal (6 Gauge Red Cable) on Solinoid to "I" terminal (18 Gauge Orange Wire) on Starter Solinoid.  If Engine cranks then next step, else
Starter Solinoid is defective, replace Starter Solinoid

Test 4:Test Ignition Switch Start Signal: Connect a test light between Starter Solinoid "I" terminal and ground. Set Ignition Switch to START then verify Test light lights.  If it does NOT light, then next step, else
Start circuit is operating properly so test of start circuit is complete

Test 5:Test Ignition Switch Start Signal at Steering Column Connector: At base of steering column white half moon Ignition Switch connector, on the ignition switch side, connect a test light between the Orange 18 gauge wire terminal and ground. Set Ignition Switch to START then verify Test light lit.  If it does NOT light (no signal from ignition switch), then next step, else if the test light does light then
the ignition switch is OK so the problem is either in the White half moon Ignition Switch connector at base of steering wheel or the 18 gauge orange wire (Circuit J18) leading back to the Starter Solinoid is OPEN.

Test 6: Verify B+ to ignition Switch: At base of steering column white half moon Ignition Switch connector, on ignition switch side, connect test light to 12 gauge Black wire to ignition switch.
If test light is Lit, then ignition switch is bad or cabling to ignition switch is open.
If the test light is NOT lit, then either the White half moon Ignition Switch connector at base of steering wheel or the 12 gauge Black wire (Circuit A20B) leading back to the Starter Solinoid is OPEN.

Test of START circuit is complete

Removal of Steering Column mounted Ignition Switch (Dodge P/N 3738077; Rock Auto or STANDARD IGNITION US-88 - Ignition Starter Switch) is discussed in Steering Column R/R in steering section of Motorhome Service Manual

Thanks for answering with that detailed procedure. I wish I had that procedure and that knowledge base 10 days ago.

Which one of the two wires that connect to the positive post on the coil goes to that voltage drop ceramic resister??

My rig has a rectangular
shaped instrument panel

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Snapshot of 1973 Dodge MH Wiring diagram is shown in the attached picture below.  As indicated Dodge only had one wire (J9A-14PK; Circuit J9A, 14 gauge, Pink) that went between the plus terminal on the coil and the dual ballast resistor (0.5 ohm side). The "I2" start signal (J9-14PK; Circuit J9, 14 gauge, Pink) from the Ignition Switch also attaches to that same post (direct 12VDC to coil during start).  The other end of the 0.5 ohm ballast resistor connects to the "I1" RUN signal from the ignition switch (J10A-18RE; ; Circuit J10A, 18 gauge, Red). 

Please note the large J10 circuit junction point which functions as a primary power distribution point for important engine circuitry so all major items see the same voltage level.  That SOLDERED junction point is located in the wiring harness that runs down by the ATF dip stick tube.  The power input to the 5.0 ohm side of the ballast resistor is also feed by that J10 junction point via J10B-18RE (Circuit J10B, 18 gauge, Red).
The other end of the 5.0 Ohm side of the Dual Ballast Resistor goes to the Electronic Ignition Control Module.

My rig has a rectangular shaped instrument panel

Sorry I simply forgot that 73 was the only year that they used both the rectangular shaped instrument panel AND Electronic ignition.

[RockwoodMike]

Please note the large J10 circuit junction point which functions as a primary power distribution point for important engine circuitry so all major items see the same voltage level.  That SOLDERED junction point is located in the wiring harness that runs down by the ATF dip stick tube.  The power input to the 5.0 ohm side of the ballast resistor is also feed by that J10 junction point via J10B-18RE (Circuit J10B, 18 gauge, Red).
The other end of the 5.0 Ohm side of the Dual Ballast Resistor goes to the Electronic Ignition Control Module.

Dave knows His stuff!! I have my harness removed and cut it open..This picture shows that soldered joint circled in red..

The ignition module..alt regulator and the ballast resistor was bolted to a flat plate held in position by the top transmission to engine mounting bolts..

Located right in the middle of the hot air blast of the fan off the engine..Seemed to me to be in a terrible place to put important electronic circuitry ..I will be making a custom harness to relocate all of that..Maybe inside the cab just below the dash on the right side..

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Just make sure you retain a master distribution point.  The principles of a Master Distribution Point are discused at MAD Electrical (Lower section of page).  Actually there is a lot of good info on the MAD website about automotive wiring systems. Including the DODGE AMP gauge wiring update that APPLIES to all Dodge MH's with the rectangle dash panel.  When Dodge replaced the rectangle dash panel with the 3 circle one they also changed over to a remote sense AMP meter configuration (main chassis power was no longer routed THROUGH the in dash AMP meter).  The new DODGE AMP meter approach simply uses a section of the alternator to starter solinoid wire as a SHUNT and the new in dash AMP meter, actually a millivolt meter, just measures the voltage drop across that SHUNT wire.

You can see all this if first look at a 73 and earlier Dodge MH wiring diagram and follow Circuit A20 (BATT) from the alternator to the dash AMP meter.  On a 74 and later Dodge MH wiring diagram Circuit A20 goes from the alternator BATT terminal directly to the Starter relay.  Along that path you will see 2 new wires, A1-18BK and B1-18RE, attached to A20.  Those 2 wires are the SHUNT tap points that the dash AMP meter gauge is reading.  Doesn't take much to realize that you only have a very small amount of voltage and current (milliamps/millivolts) going to the AMP meter. Like all SHUNT based meters it is a only measuring the voltage drop across the section of wire that acts as a SHUNT.

The last little tidbit is on the 73 and earlier Dodge MH there is also a SHUNT INSIDE of the dash AMP meter that the dash meter is measuring the voltage drop across.

So before modifying things, make sure you understand all the little things built into the original design BEFORE you redesign it.  Thats why I pointed to that MAD website.