Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

[RockwoodMike]

With these tanks, the bottom needs support..Hanging it on just the molded rails is not enough..You Tube videos a plenty showing the results of non supported bottoms cracking open..

So I added these to the black tank..That is all I need is a split open black tank  

Pic 1..Cut these out of 3/16 steel

Pic 2..welded these tabs for some 3/8 all thread rods..

Pic 3..with the straps installed..That should hold the bottom in place..

[Eyez Open]

weld in floor braces/support every 16 inches. Lay down 3/4" flooring one big flat surface. Have a good stiff bourbon and have you way with it.

The original floor was a layered approach..Started with 3/8 ply..then spaced 3/4 ply with insulation foam between each 3/4 ply ..then topped with one more 3/8 ply..

Even in the non rotted areas, it was soft..you could feel the "Give" as you walked on it..

Convenient access to everything underneath is the first on the list before anything is done..Serviceability is priority one..

And because of the frame rails and such, planning needs to be pretty tight..Or things like drain lines and access to things will be a problem..

I have been looking at this shower pan..It is ABS plastic..Not fiberglass..

https://recpro.com/rv-shower-pan-32-x-24-x-5-right-drain-in-white/

I was just wondering what it would take to build a floor with walls and fiberglass it to seal it all up..
Top coat of white gelcoat to finish it..
These ABS plastic pans sure are cheap in quality..

 

Your at the same place I started, exactly. I've watched enough videos on how to do I'm sick of the whole process. Then I had a moment.

I will take a pan like you have there and sit it on a 4" tall wooden frame. Have the entire floor pan plumbing all mocked up and ready to go. At this point I will have 8 1" holes drilled drilled around the upper  4 sides of the frame for expansion.There needs to be that many and that size, when the liquid foam expands suddenly&hardens it can be very quick and needs some place to go in a hurry. And it will expand and fill every void under the pan base assembly...one big very lite rock comes to mind. Boat floors done this way are indestructible and extremely light weight.

Made simple i will take 1-2 gallons of 8lb polyurethane foam and just dump the liquid into the holed drilled into the frame. Stand on the pan and watch the foam expand up under the pan and out of the predrilled vents. No voids will be left, and it will be umoveably glued to the flooring.


That will support&seal the pan,plumping for eternity make no mistakes. I've used that type of construction for boat hulls and flooring.

Cement board walls followed by some pvc panels..for esthetic purposes.I might have 800 into the whole affair but it will work and last forever
https://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html#:~:text=Common%20Applications%3A%20This%208LB%20density,foam%20is%20needed%20for%20support.
https://www.amazon.com/Palisade-Interlocking-Waterproof-Backsplash-Hermitage/dp/B093MT9LWQ


https://www.flooranddecor.com/duralux-performance-flooring/bianco-matte-waterproof-rigid-core-luxury-vinyl-tile---foam-pad-101070167.html

https://youtu.be/jHYzYkojuYs?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/by7BTzzuOys?feature=shared

[RockwoodMike]

Hi Eyez..

Thanks for all the advise on all of this..It will be a little bit of time before I get to the building of the shower..But it will happen soon enough..I have never seen that tile product..Looks light and easy to install..
need to be sure it will take the flex and movement of a rolling motorhome..Looks very promising..

Here is a picture  standing over the engine looking back towards the rear..Reinforce the floor area there and it will be a short run to the gray tank

[RockwoodMike]

I am trying to tune up the engine..And part of that is the heater core hookup ..

Pic 1..shows that I installed 2 valves..One for each line..1 valve will be controlled from the dash lever..What the other valve is for,is in case this 53 year old heater box should spring a leak, I can then close both lines to isolate it from the engine and not have coolant leaking inside the floor area

Pic 2 Shows the hookup to the heater box..An extra rap of hose where it exits the engine shroud to protect from the edge of the steel..

Pic 3..Only way to check coolant level with the new radiator..Mirror

[RockwoodMike]

Got a problem with the carb..It is flooding the engine..I think the float may have some grit under the float valve..When I made the AN fuel line, I should have flushed it with gasoline..Just run the pump and flow it right back to the 5 gallon container..

I didn't do that..So that means taken it off the engine and open the top..Shouldn't be too bad..

[RockwoodMike]

Just a look at the state of the art wire system, all professionally made..

It works..

What is happening with the carb is it is dribbling fuel out the primary nozzles..

even with the idle jets are totally closed the engine is running at a high idle..

When I looked down the top, you could see the dribble..

While it was running, I shut the fuel pump off and with no fuel pressure, it slowly came down on the idle..

Sounded great when it was idling correctly..

When the fuel flooding is corrected, then I can adjust the timing, idle mixture. etc.. 

[Eyez Open]

Sounds like a fuel pressure gauge is in your future, quads do not like pressure over 7psi.

Below a classic parts company and classic pricing.

https://www.rvpartssierra.com/

[RockwoodMike]

Sounds like a fuel pressure gauge is in your future, quads do not like pressure over 7psi.

On order from Summit..The pump(s) that I am using is a Summit pump..generic to the Holley Red pump..
It is suppose to be set at 7..

I will try to hook up a pressure gauge to see what it is doing..Most test vacuum gauges can be used for pressure testing up to 10 lbs or so..

But I am still going to take the carb and open the top..Just for giggles and confirmation

[RockwoodMike]

I will try to hook up a pressure gauge to see what it is doing

Just hooked it up..I have 2 vacuum pressure gauges like this..Both read the same..8.5lbs

Pressure gauge(engine mount) and AN adapter ordered..Hurry up and wait..

8.5 lbs..Isn't that close enough to 7  

[Eyez Open]

I will try to hook up a pressure gauge to see what it is doing

Just hooked it up..I have 2 vacuum pressure gauges like this..Both read the same..8.5lbs

Pressure gauge(engine mount) and AN adapter ordered..Hurry up and wait..

8.5 lbs..Isn't that close enough to 7  

Oh my god you must be ancient! A Sears vacuum gauge 

Quality products of days gone by..I still have a Craftsman timing light...chromed model of course.
5psi is a quads happy place, they are a fickle by nature.

[RockwoodMike]

I still have a Craftsman timing light...chromed model of course

Yea I have one of those..Bought it from Sears when I was in high school Autoshop..

It worked up to recently..I think the bulb burnt out..

So my 50th high school anniversary is coming up..So yea I am old school..

I would love to find one of those Sun diagnostic roll away units..
the ones with the scope screen in the middle..cables hanging everywhere..
Had one of those in high school..

[Eyez Open]

I still have a Craftsman timing light...chromed model of course

Yea I have one of those..Bought it from Sears when I was in high school Autoshop..

It worked up to recently..I think the bulb burnt out..

So my 50th high school anniversary is coming up..So yea I am old school..

I would love to find one of those Sun diagnostic roll away units..
the ones with the scope screen in the middle..cables hanging everywhere..
Had one of those in high school..

I was wrong...the racing model. kinda..

[RockwoodMike]

Working on the dash board..  

Here is a couple of old shots since several photos were lost in this build..It is like someone threw a grenade in there..

Pictures showing the dash being taken out..What was under it..And the sheet metal hack job of the wiper motor mount area..I think someone cut it up to fit a radio

I am glad I took the 3rd picture in regards to mounting the wiper motor..I put it back together backwards..And the picture set me right

[RockwoodMike]

Wiper motor inspection..Much easier to inspect and test on the bench..2 speeds with a automatic park..

Pic 1. Look good inside with grease for the gears..

Pic 2..Switch wires..The red wire with the blue collar is the power in..

Pic 3..The chassis of the motor is the ground..so bolts to the dash sheet metal then screwed to the frame of the front end..Great possibility of a poor ground..
So I am running a separate ground wire along with the other power wires to eliminate any ground issues..

[RockwoodMike]

Mounted to the sheet metal bracket under the dash..

But I mounted the swing arm on the wrong side..Old picture showed I mounted it 180 degrees out..Fixed

[RockwoodMike]

The vents needed to be reinforced..Made these rings from steel..Gloss black Powder coat..

Pic 2-3-4..Cleaning up the shifter lever and remounting it..

That shifter lever..Oh Yea!!    

[RockwoodMike]

Glove box all done  

[RockwoodMike]

This Motor Home was designed with a small amount of outside storage. 1 area for the sewer flex pipe and adapters..And the other for the power cord..

Pic 1..Shows the thin plastic trays that acted for the storage..Just broken plastic..

Pic 2-3..So as usual, I made new stuff..steel with body sealant in the corners

Pic 4..Primered

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 5-6..All done and primed..Plywood floor sets on top..Nice secure boxes

Pic 7 Some of the parts for the fuel pressure regulator..Not all the parts are here yet..

Pic 8 Fuel line from the main tank to the generator..ready to go..

[RockwoodMike]

Dropped the Dash into place  

Hooking up the under dash pieces will take time..Hardest part is the Trans cable to the shifter

[RockwoodMike]

Pic AAAA..There is a problem with hooking up the Transmission shift cable..

YOU CANNOT!!   The heater ducting blocks the cable..Actually the shifter is right tight with the ducting.

I have looked over the old pictures thinking I had something upside down or backwards..Could not find any thing wrong..

The picture AAAA is from the bottom left of the dash..looking towards the right..
The red arrow is the direction of the cable..It runs right into the ducting..

Pulled the dash and set it upside down on the work bench..The shifting of the cable from Park to drive involves pulling the cable..

I thought the shifter assemble was upside down..It is not

[RockwoodMike]

Exploded view of the wiper pivot shaft..Replace the C clip with a new 5/16 E clip

[RockwoodMike]

Here is a page out of the Dodge service manual..Mine is hooked up (trying to hook it up) just like the manual..

No idea how it was hooked up looking at the old pictures..

[Eyez Open]

This will be interesting. I've had a few moments myself. Fighting floating brake calipers is not conducive towards good mental health
 So when in doubt buy néw..not a solution in this case however....unless your using a new cable that is?

[RockwoodMike]

.unless your using a new cable that is?

No, it is the original cable..Would not even know where to find a replacement..It moves smooth..

Pic AA..If something is in the way..Move it or eliminate it..I chose to eliminate the half that was in the way

Pic BB..Moved (cut and hacked) the 3 defroster vent connections that were on the left side to the right side..Nw the left side that was in the way of the cable shift has a straight shot to the shifter..

Pic CC.. Shows the cut in half ducting..

Pic DD..Nothing in the way of the shifter now..I have no idea how it was originally done from the factory..