Added a Second 15A Automatic Shorepower Line to Existing 30A Shorepower

[lngfish]

Hello,

I wanted to share this since for me it is a great benefit since my RV has 2 roof airs and from reading online you should not run two roof airs on a single 30A Service.

Even thinking you don't need 2 roof airs, you can put the dedicated roof air that is wired to the 15A service there and run the rest of the load on the 30 line. 30 amps is never enough when running Micro Wave and you have all the other stuff on.

Also my theory is most campground have a 30A and a 15A in same box. Also if you are visiting friends you can tap into two separate 15 circuits also if you use an adapter for your 30A plug as the 15A plug will plug right in.

My AC dedicated to "either" the NEW 15A service or the OLD 30A service is the FWD AC.

What this means here is the FWD AC will switch over after a built in time delay inside the Transfer Switch and LOAD the new 15A shore line. (30 Second Delay) And, if you have this 15A plugged in, and you unplug it this same AC will revert back to the 30A service without a time delay.

So seamless. All you need to do is remember there is a time delay when going to it.

Dedicated means it is the "only load" on the 15A line. So this is easy to remember I think.

The way I did it is purchase a mechanical style, learned they have electronic ones (no thanks) online. I got mine at discount at:

http://www.adventurerv.net/wfco-transfer-switch-t30-p-29601.html

Great quality, super high quality and terrific price.

These change over switches are pretty simple as you all know. I liked this fact.

What I did was jotted down how my 30A was set up.

I did it like this:

30A:

A-Common (Load out terminal); Either gets power from B or C
B-Generator IN
C-30A Shore IN

So using this simple set up I did the same for the new 15A shore line:

A-Common (Load to Fwd AC) Either gets power from B or C
B-15A IN
C-Terminal A at 30A Transfer Switch Box

My RV had a second small plastic breaker box that was not being used that I don't know why. So I used it and put a Main breaker in it and a breaker for the FWD AC. Both 20A. I used 12G solid in RV. This will have to be done, a second breaker box, as will have to protect wiring to the load, whatever you decide to select. I chose my FWD AC. So if I'm camping and I figure there will be allot of load I will just put FWD AC on this 15A circuit so there is allot more load to load up the 30 amp circuit without blowing the 30A breaker.

Wiring was a breeze and I figured it would work but you never know till you are done!

It works great for me.

For the shore line I used a waterproof 12G white/black/green and a nice $7 plug I got all at local electrical supply for $40 total. The 15A 12G (Strained not Solid) shoreline is rated for 20A and is about 75% as big as the 30A cord. I put it in I a side compartment separate from other one, I put hole in bottom of compartment (wood floor with metal as skin) and  put in a Male PVC slip adapter with a threaded female NPT hole and a plastic plug goes in it. The slip male adapter is 2" PVC and I think the plug is 1-1/4" threaded. The hole I drilled is 2-3/8" OD . I used a hole saw thingy.It fit snug with a hammer tap.

My 15A shore line is 40 feet long.

Let me know what you think I think it is safe.

[Bnova]

I'd be a little hesitant to run the a/c on a 15 amp supply, mine won't start up on the 15 amps.  But if yours will start up and run on it, that's awesome.

Sounds like you did a lot of research and a nice job of the mod.

[lngfish]

Thanks,

Yes 15A is plenty for mine, I verified with amp meter/volts to make sure.

Mine was drawing about 12.5 amps running with ambient around 75 or so.

Most have starting capacitors I think.

Could your starting capacitor may be bad? I would think you should be able to run on a 15A circuit. You may want to check the name plate and see what the running amps are.

I can run it on a 15A circuit without a problem but the circuit is in a new garage with new 12G wire on a 15A breaker.

Sometimes old wiring and old fixtures can be a problem. I have seen this.

Neither the 12A shore line nor plug get warm at all and the fellow said cord rated for up to 20A. But I didn't verify this and went on his word. It all depends on how many stands/etc. I looks plenty good enough.

Even if you only had one roof air this could be a benefit since with mine the Refrigerator  pulls 600Watts, heater element style, and I have one of those elements for the hot water heater "hot shot" thingy.

Add a toaster oven and micro range and that 30A service gets taxed quickly.

I've popped the 30A in MH lots of times before.

[Froggy1936]

I have gotten into the habit of only allowing one major current draw item to operate at a time, Though I do not turn off A/C heater on refrigerator or hot rod water heater Quite often don't remember to turn A/C back on though ! Frank

[Bnova]

Well here's why I say that I'd be hesitant to run on 15 amps, when I first got the MH the carb on the gen needed going through.  The gen would die when I turned on the a/c, so before I got to the carb I plugged my rig directly to the wall at my work place (15 amp) which is all new (well ten years ago).  And the a/c would not start up, so I wondered if something was wrong with it. 

Then I found a manual for it and here is just a little clip from that book:

"Supply must be 20 amperes and 12 AWG wire minimum.
Any size larger at any time may be used and should be used if the
length of the wire is over 32 feet."

Pulled the carb from the gen (only a 2800 watt Onan) went through it and the a/c cranks up no problem on the gen.  So I will run anthing and everything else in the MH from a 15 amp circuit except the a/c.  Well, maybe not the micro wave at the same time as everything else.  I also will not run my a/c and micro wave at the same time off the gen either.

Backing up just a little, after checking the manual and how to test all the caps, I did and they all checked good, but just for fun I put new ones in and it didn't make any difference.

[lngfish]

Understood Bnova,

Looks like you did a thorough check with yours.

I wasn't sure about the starting capacitor nor how to check them as I don't have a analog VOM that I think you need.

2800 watts is a limiting factor for sure and so is my 4000 watt generator. But as you know we get by.

Glad you figured out how to go through the carb on generator. That I have not done yet but prob. should.