Custom Overhead Cabinets

[sasktrini]

After a complete gutting of my RV, I felt I could improve on the existing overhead cabinets.





The ceiling needed replacing, and the cabinets were hiding other ills and were not terribly stable.





Step one in making sturdier overhead cabinets was to reinforce the structure of the ceiling that the mounting screws would go in to.  I had decided that I would run a full 4'X8' sheet of paneling down the centre of the coach, which left almost 2' of paneling down each side.  So nailing strips were placed to support the ceiling panel dimensions.  Additionally, in order to hide any seams, I decided that the same strips would serve as the upper dimension of my cabinets, where I could attach my cabinets to.  This would ensure that they had a solid surface to hold tightly to, and not risk falling because it was only screwed into styrofoam insulation and a panel.





With the ceilings and walls paneled, I first measured the placement of the rear support.  It goes into a similar reinforcing treatment in the wall, so again not simply screwed into styrofoam





Preassembled the cabinet.  Will be 4' wide, reusing two original doors, but will hinge upward.











Cabinet is lifted atop the wall brace (great for support during placement), top front screwed into the ceiling.





Feels very sturdy!  That's all for now.  Will post more when I glue panels and affix doors.

[LJ-TJ]

WOW! Talk about built like a brick shoot house. :)rotflmao She sure is solid.

[Rickf1985]

Not trying to be smart but seems like a lot of wasted material or space since the cabinets come out over the doors at the top. You can't store stuff over an open door?

[sasktrini]

It's not as heavy as it looks… actually tried to keep the wood to a minimum, but the 2"X4" face is a good anchor for mounting and holding form.


The angled face will likely hold bedding or bulky clothing, and still camouflages my ceiling panel seam.  Who knows though… I may hate it.  It will limit securing points, as there are only two steel members to screw into.  Any other depth, I'm installing  into insulation, not wood.


Tonight, I moved hinges and handles around on the original doors, and found my spring-loaded struts to hold the doors open as they will hinge from the top.

[Piraterik]

It may Just Be Me, But I would be Calculating Overhead Weight  (possible Roll over issue).  Too much bulk, nice looking work but you may want to consider watching some Cabinet Making Videos on you tube.  And go to using a veneered 1/2" plywood constructed box. attached to screw blocks at key mounting points.
Consider Center Of Gravity and GRVW for all work being done.

Panels seam can be made to go away with using a t molding, or thin lattice strip.

[sasktrini]

I agree, PirateRik.  I am actually contemplating other materials.  I did my closet with 3/4" MDF ripped into 3 1/2" boards, using pocket joints.  I'm inclined to believe I could do the same with the overheads.  My only concern is the strength of the joints.  Typical cabinet construction in RVs use the large staples which I don't have.  I'm happy with the cabinet sides, but will likely build a 3/4" version of my cabinet faces and see how secure they feel.


Again, the dimensions I chose for the cabinets are based on the placement of wooden crossmembers I placed in the walls and ceiling.  I swapped in 1" wooden straps where there was previously only styrofoam insulation, to provide sturdy surfaces to tightly support the overheads and the ceiling panels.


Instead of hanging the panels crossways, which would leave a seam every 4', I hung a full sheet lengthwise down the middle, with two narrow lengths down the sides… the intention was that the seam would be hidden by the cabinet.  Unfortunately, that left almost 2' depth at the ceiling for the cabinet dimensions.  If worst comes to worst, then I may need a shallower cabinet, but then I lose my nailing surface in the ceiling to hang them from.


Stay tuned… may have a beta version in the next couple weeks.

[sasktrini]

Overhead Cabinet: version 2


I replaced some of the framing with 3/4" MDF, and think it improved on the weight.  Also mounted the doors that I modified.  Unfortunately, the support struts I have really aren't long enough to fully open the doors.











So I have a couple thoughts for version 3.  First I will use sliding doors rather than hinged.  Second, I realized as I started construction on the kitchen overheads, that the heights were different, and would look out of place and poorly planned when side-by-side.  So I am soing to figure out a plan for the overheads, keeping them uniform with the kitchen.  I've actually decided to build the drivers side overheads as one unit, which is almost 10'.  The shelf is a little wider at 15" instead of 12", in order to be wide enough for a microwave.  Here is a sneak peek at the initial progress.

[LJ-TJ]

Well looks like your doing a great job. Looks like it's not without it's challenges. Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see the finished project.

[DRMousseau]

It DOES look nice,.... and it is CERTAINLY sturdy!!!

Some think I worry too much of weight issues on such projects. But I've seen MANY mobile homes remodeled and repaired to the point where they can no longer moved or relocated in any manner!!! Some even collapsed and folded on the site. Many had doubled in weight and some even TRIPLED, due to the use of available, economical, conventional materials and general "home" construction techniques. Fine for a general home,... but not for mobile structures, RV's, trailers, watercraft, aircraft, or other specialized construction.

Substituting standard 2x4 framing for typical 2x2's in such construction, can double that framing weight alone!!! Using pine instead of fir, spruce or white cedar, can add up to 20% or more!!! And the wrong shift in the COG (center of gravity), can be devastating in mobile constructions, adding a lot of stress to unconsidered critical points, not to mention balance issues. Maybe it's jus me, but all this weighs heavy in my head when considering such work,... weight, strength, durability, costs, safety,.... the hazards of aluminum wiring instead of copper was a huge danger issue in the 70's, when certain issues weren't carefully considered.

Yes,.... such a project is not without it's challenges. And I AM interested in the finished project and the various issues here.

[sasktrini]

Thanks for that, Doc.  Actually I'm keeping things pretty consistent with the former construction, and try to decide if something I build will be strong  and practical enough with (progressively) 1" hollow walls, plywood, or 2" hollow walls framed with 1X2, 2X2 2X3 and finally 2X4.


This cabinet has 2X2s at the walls, a 2X4 for the front edge. Ultimately the use of the 2X4 will enable me to use lighter stock for the cabinet face (probably not much more than panelling tacked to 1X2 strips).

[DRMousseau]

Yes,... I recently modified a portion of hollow wall with a 2x8!!!

That may sound excessive, but the short piece was necessary to provide a safe and secure backing support for my wall mounted TV. It's actually pretty trick. Natural and appealing to the casual observer,... but those of knowledgeable critical eye may be initially SHOCKED!!!

"Ya jus don't hang a cantilevered TV from an obviously hollow wall portion!!!"

The unique mounting provides adjustable TV viewing from most anywhere in the main area of my home. The adjoining overhead cabinet holds DVDs, Blue-Ray, and supporting utilities.

[sasktrini]

Very nice!  Excellent mounting location!  Yes, I replaced some of the wall insulation with wood to support mountings such as that! The point on the wall where I screwed the 2X2 into is backed with 1" thick of plywood (2 X 1/2") for support.

[DRMousseau]

Look closely, and you'll see this is actually mounted on a hollow box INSIDE the outer wall. Its the passage-way for AC, DC, and TV cables. The Cruise Air is kinda nice since NO WIRING, nor anything else, is in the outer wall lamination!!! Although it IS in the ceiling laminate for lights and AC.

The 2" deep box is now 2/3rds solid wood with a passage in the top 1/3.