Found this in Differential! What is it?

Started by Kclbud123, March 10, 2016, 04:31 PM

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SLEETH

thrust  washers usually don't have perforations in them
I think bluebird is correct on his identification
u really wont  now where the pieces come from unless a complete tear down is initiated


Kclbud123

SLEETH:  Understood...definitely need to have this looked at. 


The pieces I found aren't perforated in that there aren't little holes in them.  These are solid metal pieces with black dots.  The thrust washers HandyDan's pic shows look very similar to these broken pieces.


HandyDan:  Can you tell me which site that pic comes from?


Thanks!!

Kclbud123


SLEETH

non-posi


its the patterns of these black dots that don't add up?

bluebird

All of the kits I have found have smooth spider shims behind the axle gears. I've never had a 14 bolt apart so I can't tell you for certain, but every chevy rear end I've had apart had smooth axle gear shims. Those pieces are too large for spider gear shims though spider gear shims do have indentions in them to carry the oil. I've seen both smooth and indention type friction plates in GM limited slip rears. I have found parts are readily available for that rear end as a lot of off road guys are using those. Problem is, to me it does look like an open carrier by the picks. That very well could be an axle gear shim that got bent up when it spit it out. You can pull that rear out your self if you are brave enough. I can walk you through it if you want me to. As long as you don't pull the pinion out , it will go right back together with out seting it up again. You just have to be SURE the side shims and bearings go back in their original location. Mark the carrier halfs and the ring gear for location before you take it apart. Good thing it has full floating axles, so you just unbolt them, take the 4 bolts out of the bearing caps, and pull out the center section, keeping the shims and bearings on the same side. I don't see the center set of bolts that a limited slip has. You take the bolts out that hold the ring gear on and it should split. Lay it so one side is down so all the parts don't go flying all over the place. Then you will be able to see where they all go. To put it back together, put the pieces back in the side laying down and then use some grease to hold the parts to the top half, bolt it back together.

bluebird

After studding that last pic you have I almost bet it is an open rear end. There is one more thing I didn't mention. You see the wires that are bolted to the cap? You have to mark the holes that they go in, and they have to go exactly like they come out. Almost looks like the side adjustment like a 9" Ford. The wear pattern looks really good.

Kclbud123

Bluebird, Wow!  Thank you very much for the great info and giving details on repair.  I definitely don't mind get dirty, but I do have some questions: 
-  This procedure is targeting replacing the thrust washers?
-  I won't have to worry about pre-loads?
-  Do the driver's and passenger's axles need to be pulled off, i.e. I'll need to take off the tires.
-  Do you have any recommended tools and/or replacement kits.  Or do I just buy a pack of thrust washers?
-  For the wire you mentioned previously, does its associated bolt require a specified torque?
-  (Finally) do you have any recommended websites or videos that show this (or similar) work being done?


Sorry for all the questions


Thanks again!

bluebird

I don't know of any at the moment but I'm sure they can be found on the web. YES all bolts will need to be torqued to specs when putting it back together. NO you don't need to remove the tires, and I would NOT work under it with them off. All you need to do to get the axles out is remove the bolts on the end of the axle. They may come out easy or may take some persuasion to get them loose. I'll find the torque specs for you, but first you need to get it apart. You may want to loosen the bolts, [but do not take out] holding the ring gear on before you remove the center section, unless you have an impact wrench.  They may be left hand thread. I'll look for a video on disassembly. Here ya go.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUlbbxymcM4


http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/14b_Gear_Setup/


Here is one of the center section apart so you can see what you have.
http://4x4mecca.com/tech/detroit-locker-install-gm-14-bolt-full-floater/

Kclbud123


Bluebird {noob question alert}:


"NO you don't need to remove the tires, and I would NOT work under it with them off. "
----Great!  I didn't want to remove the tires if I didn't have to.


"All you need to do to get the axles out is remove the bolts on the end of the axle."
----Do you mean remove the bolts at the tire end?


"You may want to loosen the bolts, [but do not take out] holding the ring gear on before you remove the center section, unless you have an impact wrench."
----I'm wondering why do this part before taking the center section out? 


Thank you so much!!!!

bluebird

You can take it out before loosing the bolts but they can be hard by yourself. Take a look at those links it'll help you a bunch.

Kclbud123

Okay gotcha


Thanks again for the info!  :)

I'll be reading and figuring out the particulars.

It may be awhile, but I will report back on what I do.




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