Engine Removal 318

LJ-TJ · June 15, 2010, 08:50 PM

Ok Boys the party is about to start. I expect to start pulling the engine some time this weekend. Now think carefully I've never done this before. Has anyone got any suggestions on how I should do it? I am pulling it out through the front. I read some were that the front should be jacket up for some reason. Any thoughts on this? Should I be putting her up on some rail road ties? Hm? Willing to listen to any suggestions you might have.

Oz · June 15, 2010, 10:42 PM

These rigs are designed to drop the engine down and then forward, as I recently stated in another topic. Take off the bumper and the grills, and there is a removable cross brace between the upper and lower grill as well. This makes removing the stuff in the front a lot easier. You'll need to raise the rig at least 6" or more. The more, up to a foot, the better.

The 69 - 77 manual covers the engine removal procedure in Chapter 9, starting on page 9-5, as well as disconnecitng the transmission, etc.

If you haven't gotten that manual, I strongly suggest you do!

LJ-TJ · June 15, 2010, 11:07 PM

Thanks Mark, got the manual but for an armature it doesn't quite give me all the info I need. Surly would like to some in-site from someone who has already done it. It not I'm hoping to keep track step by step for the next guy. Just had a thought? Hm? Should I take the front wheels off. Might give me easier access to the exhaust. Hm?

Oz · June 16, 2010, 01:37 AM

Taking the front wheels off would give you better access to the exaust, and a number of other things as well. Block up or brace under the fame in front and behind the leaf springs. You can also take one bolt out of the shocks so you can tip them out as well.

mbmcmahan · March 03, 2016, 08:36 PM

is this subject continued or documented somewhere else. I am wanting to do an engine swap and would like to get as much info as possible. I also need advice on where I may go in the San Jose CA area that might let me have (or rent) access for 3 or 4 days to do the swap since I have no yard of my own.

LJ-TJ · March 03, 2016, 10:55 PM

Plan,plan,plan. I'd never done an engine swap in my life and the lads here were amazing. If your prepared it can take a day. I started 6 in the morning and had the engine pulled and on the ground by noon. I had the new engine in by supper. I had it running the next mid morning. There's three tricks to the trade. 1) Lots of zip ties. 2) Lots of Zip Lock Bags and Sharpie.3) Lots and lots of pictures. YOU WILL NOT REMEMBER WERE IT CAME FROM OR HOW TO PUT IT BACK ON. Now, if you can jack up the front end and remove the front tires. Makes life so much more pleasant. More info if Mark doesn't find the rest of the story. Hm?

mbmcmahan · March 04, 2016, 11:50 AM

Many thanks for input. I know what you mean about pictures! Could not have overhauled all brake parts without pics😐 Don't yet know where I'm gonna do the swap but it must be done... My motor is in sad shape for some reason. Burnt valve I think... Definitely not firing on all 8 and the smell of burnt carbon.

turbinebronze · March 04, 2016, 03:44 PM

Hi MB,
Have you thought of a compression and cylinder leak down test before pulling the engine? (Did I miss this in a earlier post?) My '69 Travco had been sitting for 15 years. I pulled the engine out to find the lower end and bores perfect with the rear freeze plugs rotted out and the valves pounded into the heads. (78K miles).
If you have good oil pressure and good compression on all but one cylinder, you could get away with pulling the intake and heads thru the floor of the unit. (I learned this after reassembling mine and cooking the engine with a bad-new thermostat. The gauge let me down...)
The tall water pump on the 318-3 motor makes the top of the engine to the body very tight(on the Travco). I did have to cut some of the opening for the pass side valve cover, but the engine did come out with the exhaust manifolds on. My front x-member is riveted in, and I did not remove it. The oil pan just scrapes thru...
Please note in the pic the front tires are on blocks. Razing the front of the unit was the only way to get the lift in deep enough.
and do take lots of pics! I couldn't believe how they helped on reassembly.

Froggy1936 · March 04, 2016, 04:06 PM

Just a TIP: Cement blocks are handy with holes to pick them up But I have seen them crumble from weight . The wood on top helps to spread the weight and to use the whole block . But 4X4,s or 6X6,s are safer And jack stands are the best . But if you are under it when it comes down it will be someone else,s problem !

Frank

LJ-TJ · March 04, 2016, 06:04 PM

Hey mate, Not intended as a criticism because it works,the concert blocks if that's all you have available but BUT, like Frank says it you can't see your way clear with jacks, please use 6x6's or even pieces of railroad ties. Trust us once you get under there and start looking at the motorhome,the concert blocks, motorhome concert blocks the 6X6's will look great.

turbinebronze · March 05, 2016, 10:04 AM

I agree about the cement blocks. The 2x8 on top was there to help spread the load. I'm not recommending the use of those blocks. It was the only way I had to get the front end up to insert the lift arm....it was the best I had at the time.
Also, I'm not sure if any of this will help on a Winnie, but it is a Dodge chassis, so...just my 2 cents...

mbmcmahan · March 06, 2016, 12:37 AM

Cement blocks are scary! I use 4 six ton jackstands whenever I go under the RV.

Dodgy71 · April 03, 2016, 09:04 PM

When the front was on blocks, how did you keep the rear from rolling? My 71 Travco has the e brake on the rear of the transmission, so wouldn't do much good with the engine disconnected. I'd sure want to have an assured way of keeping the MH from rolling. I realize you could use wood blocks or a rubber ones, but unless they were tied together such that no forward or rearward motion could occur, I'd be concerned. I bring this up, because I am contemplating the removal of my 413 from my Travco, and am looking for the most efficient and safe way to do it.

LJ-TJ · April 03, 2016, 09:26 PM

So I've got a 1975 21 footer and when I did mine I use something like this. I use four, one on the front of the back wheel and one on the back of the back wheel on both sides. They were more than adequate . If your handy to a place that does maintenance on big trucks stop buy and see if they have a few to spare. Sometime the lads will just give them to you. Or check out some loading docks where they park tractor trailers over night. Hm?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trailer-Wheel-Chock-Heavy-Duty-Rubber-Semi-Stop-10-L-x-8-W-x-6-T-w-Eye-Bolt-/350674975882?hash=item51a5db7c8a:g:rL8AAOxyjxlTLExY&vxp=mtr