1977 M400 Dana 70 Brakes, Bearings, Shocks

[Surfinhurf]

So, finely got some time under her rear end today W%
New Monroe shocks $50 pair.  Old ones were completely collapsed
New Napa brake pads and hardware $100 .  The brake cylinders were leaking. This started the whole process, While I was in there I replaced all springs and took the E-brake arm apart and greased.  Drums looked good.  Only special tool needed was the 2 9/16" nut socket to get the hub off.  Next step is to bleed them.  I purchased a pneumatic bleeder from HF.
While I had the drums off I decided to replace the hub bearings.  The old ones looked "OK" and I think were replaced a 4-5 years ago when my mechanic changed the Ring and Pinion, but I could not remember.  They probably had 8k to 10k miles on them. The bearings,races, seals, and lock nut rings, from Napa $250.  I found a place online Torqueking4x4.com that had a kit with installation tools for $350.  I sprung for the extra $100 for the tools,,BEST $100 I've spent in quite a while. Bearings and seals installed in both hubs in less that an hour. 

[Surfinhurf]

Inner seal install

[Surfinhurf]

outer bearing install

[Surfinhurf]

Next is to mount hubs and pre load bearings.  Looks like 120-140 lbs then back nut off 1/6.  Then I will bleed brakes before I reinstall the tires. I have read somewhere you should start with the brake that is furthest from the proportioning valve, any comments on that, or the nut torque?

HURF

[legomybago]

Starting the bleeding process furthest from the MC is rule of thumb.

[Rickf1985]

It is great to see someone actually use the proper tools to install the bearing races and seals. I was a professional mechanic for 40 plus years and I think I used the right tools maybe 4-5 times. W% W% They were just never around when I needed them and I learned old school. using the right tools is much better, especially if you have never done them the old tap, move, tap, move tap, move, tap method. It is also much faster.

[Surfinhurf]

Too familiar with the "old tap, move, tap, move, tap, move method"  So I know the extra $100 was well spent

[legomybago]

I had a large fancy aluminum seal driver (like the one you posted), for driving large seals on dump truck hubs and etc....HATED it! I never did get used to it, I just used a block of wood. I can see where a bearing race might go a little smoother with a driver, being the race is more rigid, rather than a bouncy oil/grease seal.

[Surfinhurf]

No problem with the seal.  Although the seal was very solid.  The one I removed was put in with a hammer and it deformed the metal, thus deforming the seal and the lips of the seal were wore by the deformation.

HURF

[legomybago]

Yes, a hammer will easily deform a seal, not that I've done it  W% I use large sockets on my standard truck/auto seals. Anyway, looks like your doing an awesome job. Your the type of person we all want to buy our rigs from! Someone who works on them!!

[Rickf1985]

WITH the correct tools.

[Surfinhurf]

So I got the hubs on last night, well almost.  I torqued the inner nut to 140 lbs while spinning the hub, then backed off the nut 1/6 of a turn.  All felt good so I put on the lock washer, bent 2 tabs over the inner nut, then started torquing the outer nut. I got to about 100 lbs and I felt something let go,,,CHIT.  I removed the outer nut and realized that I sheered the key tab off on the lock washer.
OBVIOUSLY you should not lock the lock washer tabs on the inner nut until you have torqued the outer nut.  Dumb Azz.  Pic is of old lock washer with key tab, and new lock washer with sheared key tab.

HURF

[Surfinhurf]

I had a chance to install these valve extenders.  I found them under the rear bed.  PO didn't get a chance to install them.  It should make it easier to check the inner dual tire pressure and fill as needed.  They work kinda different than expected.  There is a long rod thru the middle.  They only actuate the valve stem on the tire side when the fill/check side is depressed, so the stem only holds pressure when the tire is being filled or pressure checked.


HURF

[Rickf1985]

140 lbs.on the inner nut?! Is that what it calls for? I never did more than a good grunt! The idea is the be sure the bearing is centered and all of the excess grease is out of the race before making the final lock in. And if you grease the lock washer it will not shear the tab.

[Surfinhurf]

140 lbs is a good grunt.  Everything I found online, Dodge HD forums, said 120 to 140 lbs.  After I hit 140 I backed the nut of 1/6th of a turn.  hub rotates freely and "Feels" right.  I put 140 lbs on the outer nut, then locked the washer.  I have another washer coming, $10.40 mistake.


HURF

[legomybago]

I've always done a "good grunt", back off a turn or so, then re-snug....All while turning the hub counter clock wise throughout the process. I don't think anyone wrote it like this in the manuals W% But it works.

[Rickf1985]

The proper way id to tighten the inner bearing nut while rotating the drum to remove excess grease, stop rotating and back off the pressure on nut and then turn it back in hand tight and then put lock tab on and tighten outer lock nut to spec.. Tightening this outer nut takes all of the play out of the threads on the inner nut and preloads the bearing at the same time as locking the assembly. The usual preload on the inner that I have always read for preliminary setup is 40-50 lbs. but you guys are reading it from the book so I will believe you. The only wheel bearing I have ever put that much torque on are heavy Rockwells.

[Surfinhurf]

Just buttoned up the rear end rebuild. 
New bearings, races, seals, diff fluid drain and change,  complete brakes, and shocks.
I did have a problem with the HF pneumatic brake bleeder.  It would not completely bring the fluid out of the brake cylinder.  Just got spurts.  A couple of pumps on the brake peddle worked though.
Now to the front end.


Pic of axle shaft and new seal.
HURF