Changing CCI 7719 LP Detector & Solenoid to Safe-T-Alert 70-742-R-Kit

[tintin]

I am planning to replace the old CCI 7719 LP Detector & Solenoid with the Safe-T-Alert 70-742-R-Kit in my 86 Fleetwood Southwind. Has anybody done this and could provide clarity on how to wire the new kit in?
The old detector has two red wires (one coming from battery, the other coming from the transverter) and a yellow wire going to the Solenoid.

There is a wiring diagram for the new kit but I am not sure  what to do with the two existing red wires and not having a ground? Is a separate ground wire required? If so where would I connect to? Also, how can I tell the two red wires apart as one is coming from the battery and the other one is coming from the transverter.

Any pointers are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

C

[Rickf1985]

Transverter? I have no idea what that is but i am going to guess you mean converter? So you are getting 12 volts in from either wire is this correct? If that is the case then you need to pick which ever has constant voltage which I would say is the battery because if it is dead then you will be plugged in or running the generator. You always need a ground in a DC circuit and it shows that in the diagrams for the new unit that you posted. They do note that the solenoid has the also be a Saf-T-Alert brand or you risk a fire hazard due to differences in resistance in the solenoids. Just a note, If you lose all power the unit will default to safe and shut off the gas.

[tintin]

Hi Rick, yest I meant to say Converter lol. Yes, I am planning to install the kit with the solenoid. The only issue that I only have two red wires and yellow one coming out from behind the LP sensor. If there is no ground wire present, where/how should I connect to ground?

[Rickf1985]

I did a little reading on the subject and it seems that the two red wires should be coming from the coach batteries for one and the chassis battery for the other, that way you always have battery power to the detector. It seems the best route for you to take is to hook to the chassis battery so that if for any reason the coach batteries are turned off you still have power to the sensor. The flip side to that is that the sensor draws a fair amount of power so if the RV sits for weeks on end you could end up with a dead chassis battery. In that light it would be best to hook to the coach batteries.  Both of the RV's I have the sensor is hooked to the coach batteries so that might be the best route to take. And thinking about it, if the batteries go dead the valve defaults to the closed position so even if you are in there there is no way the gas could get you even if the batteries died and the sensor did not work. On top of all that the sensor will start making a very irritating noise if the batteries get low.

[TerryH]

Little confused here - not surprising given my hair color - your post subject lists a LP detector but the link to the wiring diagram shows a CO detector.
I have a CCI 7730 LP detector in mine and have the original installation/owner docs if they may help you. They do have a wiring diagram, but it is not the best. If they may help I can scan and send to you.

[tintin]

Here is the picture of the original LP detector with two red wires and one yellow:



Here is the original wiring diagram which came with the owner's manual:



This is the wiring diagram for the proposed replacement Safe T Alert 70-742-R-KIT- Carbon Monoxide and LP Gas Alarm w/Relay and Solenoid Kit Trailer Camper RV



The new unit has 2 white wires, 1 Black and one red.


Not sure how to noodle that replacement CO/Gas Alarm and solenoid in to replace the old one. Where would I find ground? Will this require a separate ground wire? Hope the old and new wiring diagram shed some light on this. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

[TerryH]

Going to add my 2 cents worth here:
There are various posts here re multi function alarms. Most, I recall, say avoid them.
These single sensing  alarms can and may save your life and your family's life.
In my case I run on dual fuel - LP and gas. As such I have three LP detectors, all mounted at floor level, two forward and one rearward. Actually 4 as I still have the original as posted earlier. Of the two forward, one is very close to the dog house and the other very close to the huge tank that is engine fuel. 3rd and 4th are mid coach, close to stove/refer/water heater.
As well I have three CO alarms on the ceiling. Different gases but not so different in density.
Determine what you want in an alarm and what you want to protect with the alarm. Multiply it by 3, buy them and install.
Cheap insurance, yes, but safety - invaluable.
My opinion only.
Link below may help:

Proper placement of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector is important. If you are installing only one carbon monoxide detector, the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends it be located near the sleeping area, where it can wake you if you are asleep. Additional detectors on every level and in every bedroom of a home provides extra protection against carbon monoxide poisoning.

Homeowners should remember not to install carbon monoxide detectors directly above or beside fuel-burning appliances, as appliances may emit a small amount of carbon monoxide upon start-up. A detector should not be placed within fifteen feet of heating or cooking appliances or in or near very humid areas such as bathrooms.

When considering where to place a carbon monoxide detector, keep in mind that although carbon monoxide is roughly the same weight as air (carbon monoxide's specific gravity is 0.9657, as stated by the EPA; the National Resource Council lists the specific gravity of air as one), it may be contained in warm air coming from combustion appliances such as home heating equipment. If this is the case, carbon monoxide will rise with the warmer air.

Installation locations vary by manufacturer. Manufacturers' recommendations differ to a certain degree based on research conducted with each one's specific detector. Therefore, make sure to read the provided installation manual for each detector before installing

[Rickf1985]

Per your diagram the ground for that system is after the gas valve. The power comes from the batteries to the alarm to the valve and back to the battery. That is your full circuit. On your new setup you would need to do something different if I remember you diagram for that system, it calls for a positive and negative to the alarm and a separate wire to the valve. The valve will also need a ground. What this means is that you are going to have to run a new ground wire from the alarm to a good ground. That can be anything metal that is tied into the chassis. If you are near any other electrical appliance, like the fridge look for a ground in there and then run a new wire from the alarm to the ground point at that appliance. Your valve should already have a ground so you should be able to run just the one wire from the alarm to the valve.