Need new fuel tank selector switch

[class87]

From: Crazytrain  (Original Message)
Sent: 7/10/2003 4:50 PM

Hi again folks,

i'm back from a 10 days trips to the canadian maritime provinces. I did 9 mpg towing my wife's Daewoo, not bad at all. However I had problem with the rocker switch for the tank selector. No luck with Dodge dealers or NAPA. Is there a replacement that will fill in a proper
way on my 1974 D-23L Indian?
Thanks

Crazytrain



From: leftyizme
Sent: 7/10/2003 7:40 PM

I installed a new selector valve and switch on my Chieftan last year that fit the original hole perfectly without modification.Go back to Napa and ask to see their Illustrated fuel guide (a big picture book) the part is listed in the front index under tank selector valve, and tank selector valve installation kit respectively. if they still can't find it or they don't have the catalog, let me know, I have one in my catalog rack at work. --lefty



From: wendell
Sent: 7/12/2003 9:51 PM

Do you need both the switch and the selector valve or just the switch.  There are two or three different switches depending on the type of valve you have.  How many terminals are there on your old switch?

The Winnie parts catalog lists a two terminal switch--part no.  024465-01-000, a 5 term. switch--065963-02-000 and a 6 term. switch--065963-03-000.

 

From: Crazytrain
Sent: 7/13/2003 7:19 PM

Hi Wendel,

my switch is the 2 terminal one. It is written main-fuel-aux.. If i put a standard fog light switch the tanks goes from main to aux. and back without any problem.

So i'm sure I only need a good switch.

Thanks

Crazytrain



From: HeavyHaulTrucker
Sent: 6/6/2004 4:15 PM

My tank switch did the same thing the other day... out in the middle of nowhere, when I switched tanks, of course!  The PO had installed a toggle switch in the lower left dash wing to control the electric fuel pump so I just re-wired that switch to where the fuel pump is on the "hot" side of the toggle switch, and the tank selector solenoid and the little indicator light are on the switched side.  Of course, that switch is only powered when the ignition is on.  Works like a charm!
 


From: AlienImpulse
Sent: 6/23/2004 6:32 PM

After reading this forum about fuel switches & valves I'm thinking the reason my fuel gauge doesn't work might be the switch. I have replaced the dash voltage limiter, and I got everything working BUT the fuel gauge. I took it out of the dash & tested it, seems ok. Anyway I took out the switch on the dash and noticed that it was a 6 lug switch with one of the lugs snipped off to make it a 5 lug switch which is what I believe it should be. Does anyone else think this could be a possible reason why my fuel gauge doesn't work? I realize that it could be a problem with the float, but it does not seem likely that both floats would go bad. I also checked all the wiring, and the tank selector valve which is working fine. Could I use a 6 lug and just jump the top two leads to the fuel gauge? It would be so nice to have a working fuel gauge!

TIA,
-Jeff



From: Sea Hag
Sent: 6/24/2004 10:11 AM

Jeff - I belive the fuel gauge also has another coil solderd on the back of the dash directly behind the fuel gauge - I recall a disscussion a few weeks back  where another member had to resolder one of the leads . If you look up my post on voltage limiter  the is a pic of the printed circuit dash you might be able to see what it looks like . Sea Hag 



From: AlienImpulse
Sent: 6/26/2004 9:16 PM

There's an insulated fuse on the back of my dash, but no coil. Anyway I definitely made some progress... I picked up the 5 terminal switch described above with the Winnie part # 065963-02-000, and presto, I got the fuel gauge to move at least. I think whoever put in the 6 lug switch may have wired it wrong. I've tried several combinations of connections. I have gotten at least one tank reading, I just either have to get under her tomorrow and trace the colors of the wires unless someone can tell me the basic diagram. I have a black, a red (which I'm pretty sure goes directly to the selector valve), a green (this is tapped into power), a light blue wire which goes directly to the gauge, and a darker blue. The terminals are numbered as well. My problem is that there has been extensive wiring done by one of the previous owners, so chances are good that the colors of my wires won't match the original 1978 M-400 chassis very well. But if anyone can give me an idea...like the wire from the selector valve goes to position 3, 12V keyed power goes to position 1, and so on I'm sure I could get it working correctly!
Thanks,
-Jeff