Dodge 440 to 7.3 Ford Powerstroke Diesel Conversion in 1978 Winnebago Brave.

[Sweethearts]

               This project started when my Wife and I found a nice 1978 Winnebago Brave. We decided to upgrade from a 1973 teardrop style trailer that we fixed up together with our kids. After fixing all the plumbing, heating, AC, and inverter issues; we decided to see more of the countryside. It didnââ,¬â,,¢t take long to find out that more issues were to follow. After fixing the thermoquad carburetor (the hardest was finding an epoxy for the fuel wells that wasnââ,¬â,,¢t affected by the new ethanol fuels) the ââ,¬Å"hard startââ,¬Â issue when hot was now fixed. The next was the AC compressor on the engine. I converted it from the old-style York to a Sanden. Worked great. On our first major trip, the shift cable broke and I found a way to convert to a B&M Cable as the original was no longer available. I found Instructions on how to do so here on this site. The instruction were excellent w/pictures. The cable in the instructions was too short, so I reordered a longer one. The same cable worked perfectly when I converted to the Ford AODE in this project.
                The Brave ran great and we toured our state, only to find that the gas-mileage issue was going to be an insurmountable problem. In our heavy rigââ,¬Â¦we only mustered 5 mpg. at 55 mph. Due to the constant high winds in our stateââ,¬Â¦we often fell to 3 mpg. I was tired of driving like a turtle on the freeway so I decided to cruise at around 65 mph. Mileage was about the same. I loved the rig but something had to give. I read everything I could find online. I realized I needed to lower the cruise rpm and increase the torque of the engine. Cams were expensive and porting the heads (though do-able) was going to be time consuming. Pistons and overhaul kits were also spendy. Then the issue of lowering the rpm was going to be a problem. Some had used overdrivesââ,¬Â¦but all this was expensive. Dodge did have an overdrive transmission but I wasnââ,¬â,,¢t sure it would couple to my 440 and the price was, once again, going to be high. Diesels have more torque and get better mileage, so I started researching diesel swaps. Size and weight were going to be the issues; as well as what transmission to run as the diesels donââ,¬â,,¢t turn the same rpms as gas.
                The engine was going to have to fit in my budget. I started looking for school buses, as they sell rather cheaply and are easy to find with reasonable mileage. I considered the DT466 but it was too tall to fit the compartment comfortably. I ended up with only two more reasonable choices. The Cummins 5.9 (the 6.7 was too expensive) and the International 444E. I couldnââ,¬â,,¢t find a Cummins with an overdrive transmission in my budget. The 444E was reasonable but didnââ,¬â,,¢t come with an overdrive transmission. This is when the hospital, I drive ambulance for, was buying a new ambulance and selling the old one. It had the 7.3 Powerstroke (Fordââ,¬â,,¢s implant of the International 444E) and a heavy duty AODE overdrive transmission. Ambulances were a source of power supplies that I had overlooked. The ambulance rear axle ratio and tire size calculated to a perfect fit for the rear axle ratio and tire size of my Brave. Since this was the ambulance that I drove, I knew it ran well so I bid on it and bought it. The whole ambulance was cheaper than my estimate to rebuild my Dodge 440-3 engine.
                Through out the years I have done a few engine conversions. This would be my most challenging and possibly my last (as I am not getting any younger) engine conversion; and that is why I documented the process with photos. I hope you enjoy the hard work. By the way, I made a 3,500 mile trip to test out the finished product. I had enough power to use the cruiseââ,¬Â¦even in the Mountains of Kentucky. I cruised at an average of 70 mph. and it never had to shift out of overdrive. I love the way it drives and it accelerates like a pickup around town (the brakes are still a little less than desired). My average fuel economy for the whole trip ended up to be 10.2 mpg. No telling what it would do if I could find the willpower to hold it to 55 mph or even 65 mph (the World will never know.😊) Note: Iââ,¬â,,¢m more of a mechanic than a writer, so please forgive this write-up for any errors. Also, I donââ,¬â,,¢t do well with chat so I probably will only respond to questions after I finish the post. (Please be patient as I will be posting as I find time and figure out how to post photos.)


Starting with my donor vehicle.


My Motor Home Pre-Conversion.


I want to point out that the Ambulance package is really a great choice for the conversion. I used a 1998 model, but any ambulance that was an E350 diesel from 1998-2002 was a rv chassis and had many factory performance upgrades. The exhaust down pipe is already the largest available and the injectors are (AB) higher flow for more HP. The turbo housing allows for quicker spool-up and boost. The first thing I did was prepare the diesel engine for longevity and more power/economy. I planned for adding an intercooler and a DP Power Tuner custom performance chip (which brought the finished project to about 300 HP and around 500 ft. lbs. torque, my educated guess from other's dyno results. The actual finished performance reflects these numbers.). I installed a fuel sump on the fuel tank and an electric fuel pump supply (More details possibly later if people are interested). Here are some photos of the 7.3 powerstroke before, during and after prep.


7.3 Powerstroke fresh out of Ambulance.



I installed larger intake manifold for higher air flow off of a later model F350 Super Duty.





For the fuel supply, I removed the inadequate factory mechanical fuel pump and installed a low pressure, electric supply pump back by the fuel tank (Napa #B-0267-E). This sends fuel at 6 psi to the fuel filter bowl inlet. The fuel flows through the filter and back to a frame mounted high, pressure electric fuel pump (Factory pump from a 2002 F350).
Here is a picture of the filter housing.



From the high pressure pump, the fuel goes directly to the fuel damper/splitter that feeds the injectors at about 45psi. Here is a picture of the adapter I made. Also note the bracket blocks off the old fuel pump hole.







I also replaced all the fuel line seals, Injector seals, fuel lines, and overhauled the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) that supplies the injectors. The next problem is that the oil pan sump was rear and the Winnebago needs front sump. This required that I change the oil pump pickup and find a way to reverse the sump. My first attempt on the oil pickup tube modification didn't clear the crankshaft counter balance:(


Factory Oil Pickup Tube.



Failed Attempt with not enough clearance.



Second Attempt Success!



To my benefit, the oil pan was reversible with some modification to the sump in order to clear the oil pump. While I had the pan off, I welded up the old, oil dipstick tube hole (as the dipstick didn't clear the manifold since the pan was turned around). I also added a Mercedes oil level sensor (cheap on ebay) to turn on the Winnebago's low oil light on the dash (should my oil level get low.)


Picture of pan now in place with front sump!



I also resealed the Oil Cooler pictured above (just to avoid leakage problems later). Also changed was the water pump and any other things that would be hard to reach once the engine was installed into the Winnebago.


I installed a "spyder pipe" from a 2000 F350 Super duty so that I could later install a intercooler. Here is a picture with the spyder pipe installed to the intakes and turbo. Clearances are super tight, but it works!







Next I overhauled the transmission and beefed up the clutches; installed a shift kit; and a engine brake shift package (my DP Tuner uses the exhaust back pressure control as an engine brake for long downgrades). I also installed a billet torgue-converter for extreme torque and heat.


Transmission overhaul.



Finished Project.



I also installed the B&M shift cable adapter kit that fit the shift cable I had installed after our first camping adventure. Here is a photo of the bracket modification that the cable mounts to. Sorry for the poor angle.


Here is a photo of the Diesel Power Plant ready to install. Rest assured that there are probably some steps I might have missed:)




Up until this time I could always sell the diesel and still drive the RV with the 440...but here goes!?!?


The Point Of No Return!


Removing the grill and bumper.





Photo after the transmission cooler, AC condenser, and radiator have been removed.



At this point I realized that the engine hoist (cherry Picker) was too tall to fit under the top of the RV engine compartment cutout. I had to cut about 8" out of the main support of the cherry picker and re-weld the base back on. Here is a picture of the finished product.



Here is a photo of the RV without the 440-3 engine.



From this point forward progress slowed as many things had to be measured and fabricated perfectly. Everything was a tight fit and there was no room to spare. The extra weight and size of the engine complicated things; as well as the fact that the transmission was longer. Time to pull out the old fuel lines, get the factory wiring harness out of the way, remove the exhaust and remove the old motor mounts. Let's slip in the 7.3 powerstroke and see how it fits!


Here are a couple of photos as the power-train goes in. This unit is heavy and it is going to be a tight fit!
[size=78%]


Here is a view from the inside of the RV as I take time to slip the transmission tail housing over the front axle. So far so good!



Still progressing. Taking it slow and all is well.





The next view is of the power-train almost in the correct and final position. I'm taking it easy, but trouble is just around the corner. The engine sling I quickly fabricated is designed poorly. Too much stress is on the drift pin and it is faulty. At this point I'm feeling pretty good. I am concerned whether this is going to fit, the exhaust manifolds are hanging up in the frame.

[/size]Disaster Struck! The Pin Broke and the Engine Dropped!



After the BANG! There was now a big dent in the top of my engine cut-out as well as oil running onto the floor. This has got to be bad. I obviously am feeling sick at this point, but accidents happen and no one is hurt. It is time to assess the damage. I haven't filled the oil pan yet, so it can't be engine oil unless I cracked the block or head. The first problem I see is that the vacuum pump is broken off. This is the source of oil (what a relief). Enough is enough. Time to fabricate a special engine sling. Here is a photo of it. It protects the turbo piping as well as gives a little more clearance for the install.





I now pull the engine and do a full assessment. I go to the salvage yard and pick up a new (used) casting for the vacuum pump and rebuild it (I'll install it after the engine is in place). The oil pan was crushed and I later found out (after the reinstall) that the valve cover had a hole punched into it. I was fortunate that the engine is still alright. Many hours later...the pan is fixed and the engine assembly is now in place. Sure looks good to me:) Note: Another advantage of the Ambulance package is the 200 plus amp. alternator...nice for an RV with multiple batteries!





Note that the axle to engine clearance has no room to spare, but is adequate.



To my relief. The "dog-house" clearance is most likely going to be sufficient!



The next task is to make motor mounts. To be honest I wasn't sure how to do this, as the location of the engine mounts in relation to the frame was a real problem. After wasting a lot of time, I decided to try to modify the old 440-3 mounts. here are pictures of the engine without mounts. What would you do?
left side.


right side.


Here are photos of my first attempt. I'll tell you right now. I didn't think they would work and they didn't. They did hold up the engine long enough for me to make the Transmission cross-member, but the engine was so heavy that it twisted the frame. The engine would rock back and forth about three inches. This caused the power-steering pump to hit the frame. I knew that the fan was going to hit the fan shroud, and I could only imagine what would happen when this engine started producing full torque. Go ahead and shake your head at my failed attempt.
left mount failure.


right mount failure.


Since I realized that the frame needed reinforcement for this engine's greater weight and torque, I decided to make a frame cross-member and engine support in one piece. This may not look real pretty, but it works awesome! The frame flex was gone and the engine clearance to frame was maintained! Finally! Much time went into this design, but now the engine was stable and ready for all the peripheral equipment.


Picture of the cross-member, engine support.



Note: If anyone tackles a similar project. I have more detailed photos I would share if you get this far.


Next I realized that the transmission cross-member I made from the old RV Cross-member didn't allow clearance for the new 4" exhaust. I tried to make one from the ambulance cross-member but (since it was hardened steel and I heard it pop during the cool-down stage after I welded it, I refused to use it. It looked good, but I knew better. Always, better safe than sorry.) made a new one from scratch. Took longer but worked great. Note the transmission angle is off a little because the motor is still on my failed motor mounts. I didn't get a picture of it on the new engine cross-member, but it is now perfectly level.


What a Relief! Success Before Christmas!

My goal was to have the engine securely bolted in by Christmas. What a relief. This power-plant was going to work. A lot of hurdles yet to clear, but the engine will fit and work. Next project is to find a way to install the radiator. i worked for months trying to find a way to use the ambulance radiator. The only way was to cut the frame. I finally decided this was too difficult and found a radiator for a Isuzu cab-over truck that was for a 7.8 diesel. This radiator is also a possible option for people trying to find a replacement for their stock 440-3. Since space was limited between the fan and the grill, every fraction of an inch needed to be utilized wisely. To make a long story short. I also purchased a used inter-cooler for the same Isuzu. I built a special housing to hold the radiator, AC condenser, and inter-cooler. I used the l brackets from the dodge factory radiator support to hold my new support. I couldn't find the rubber bushings for the radiator (obsolete) so I made them by making forms out of plywood and pouring in two-part rubber (P-545 Platinum Cure Silicone Rubber- Heat and chemical resistant with a 45A durometer hardness). Radiator is a GM pt#52470237.


Picture of Radiator bracket and fan shroud (Modified from Ambulance radiator) in RV to test for fit.



Picture of frame with home-made bushings.



Photo of radiator in frame.
Note that this radiator has an engine oil cooler. I used this as a transmission oil cooler. The fittings took weeks to find (not because of availability, but because I couldn't find what thread size and pitch).



Here is a picture of the final package. I am quite proud of this accomplishment. shroud, radiator, AC condenser and inter-cooler...all in one compact package. When installed there is no room to spare! Please applaud..just kidding.


Here is a late stage photo with radiator, AC condenser, inter-cooler, transmission cooler, radiator boil-off tank and hoses. the front frame cross-member is also in place. (note the boil-off tank swings out for filling)



The next stage was to hook up all of the peripherals. The most complicated was making a new wiring harness. I unraveled the factory RV harness and removed all unnecessary wires. I used all of the "warning center" wires and installed sensors in the engine and transmission lines so that the RV panel worked as before. I then unraveled the Factory Ford harness and removed all unnecessary wires from it. I had about 7 major wiring harnesses from the ambulance that filled three totes. I wound a new harness that included the injectors, injector driver, computer, cruise control, engine controls, throttle wiring, engine and transmission computer, and sensors, etc. etc. etc. Here is a photo of one two smaller harnesses. I'm sorry that I don't have more photos. Can't find the finished harness photo. The schematics for the RV harness I purchased here from Classic Winnebago (Thanks CW). The wiring schematics for the ambulance I found in a factory wiring diagram book I purchased on Ebay. I was able to even use the ambulance power center and tachometer. The OBDII port is active and working. Here is where I started.





I also installed an electronic speedometer so that I could use the Ford VSS (vehicle speed sensor). Since I have lost the photo of the instrument cluster...I will try to add some later.


The Engine and Transmission are longer than the original because of the overdrive transmission. This required me to shorten the drive shaft. Here is a photo of this modification.


First I removed the unneeded section of the RV driveshaft.



Then I welded in a yoke that fit the Ford transmission yoke. Here is the driveshaft, finished.



Since I switched to diesel fuel, I needed to modify the fuel system. Part of that project required changing all fuel lines and installing a fuel sump on the supply tank (as diesels don't take well to sucking air). I take the fuel from the auxiliary fuel tank with the sump and pump it to the engine. The rear tank is now my backup tank. I have an electric fuel pump that pumps fuel from the rear tank to refill the auxiliary tank. I installed a sensor in the auxiliary tank that deactivates the relay that runs the transfer pump so that I don't have an overfill problem if I forget to watch the gauge. I only recommend that you have a professional weld on your fuel tank. Here is my tank with the new sump. (The tank is upside-down.)



Here is the Low pressure supply pump with pre-filter. The fuel from this pump goes through the factory fuel filter/heater and then to the main supply pump.



Next the main supply pump pushes the fuel through a final filter and to the injectors. Here is the electric main supply pump mounted on the front of the frame rail.



The exhaust is 4" from the down-pipe back. I used a 4" diamond eye straight through muffler. It was the largest they make, thus it is quiet but a very tight fit. I routed the exhaust out the passenger side. The old exhaust terminated out the rear, but due to clearance problems going through dips, the factory exhaust used to drag. Now that it is 4" instead of 2.5" I knew that the rear exhaust was not an option. Here is a poor picture of the side exhaust.



Another matter I had to deal with was the Power-steering/hydro-boost brake system. I used the Ford factory power-steering pump and it works better than the factory Dodge pump did. The clearance between the pump and frame was tight, but I was able to find a hose at Napa with a 90 degree elbow. I then flared the other end to fit the old style hydro-boost. Here is a photo of the power-steering hoses. All fittings are double-flared for safety.



I also had a bad brake light switch so I made a new bracket and used a Napa brake switch to replace it.





Here is a photo of the finished engine compartment. Note the wiring, custom turbo piping (Self fabricated), heater and radiator hoses,AC hoses and compressor set up, intake system, crankcase ventilation, etc. Everything fits without an inch to spare. Air Filter box is in the left fender well. Everything works flawlessly and the RV is actually now fun to drive.



In order to eliminate as much cab noise as possible, I made a fireproof dog-house that fits under the one my RV came with. The material I used kind of gives new meaning to "cutting up your credit cards."



To quiet things down I installed Noico 80 mil. soundproofing mat on the cover and engine housing. It works great and not only keeps the engine noise out but also the cover stays cool.



Many other steps were taken to complete this project. I also converted my generator to propane (as I no longer have a gas tank and my generator is not diesel). I installed an electric fuel shut off solenoid so that everything still works off of the dash switch. The generator runs more quietly on propane and it is quite economical. If you have questions, feel free to message me and I will try to answer them as I get time. If you ask me, I think this is a very practical and worthwhile swap for those who want to run vintage looks with great performance. I did it because I couldn't afford a new diesel pusher. My wife and I are  happy and I enjoyed the challenge. Some might say that, "Things like this are best left to a professional". You can do it if you are crazy enough to dig in like me. Have fun RVing and I hope you enjoyed this project post!

If you see me, stop by and say hi!



Now to repair the body.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

I can't see the pictures!  It is just a message saying "You are not allowed to view this photo."  Sad face. 


Kev

[Rickf1985]

I see them. I was thinking of converting one of those ambulances to a camper for many years since they almost all have everything you need including 110 volt AC power.

[Gearhead88]

Good project !!

[ClydesdaleKevin]

I can see the pictures now...AWESOME!!!


Kev

[Sweethearts]

I don't plan on upgrading tires. I used cooper semi tires and they handle the rig just perfectly. Brakes are adequate as long as you drive sensibly. The front suspension handles the weight "ok". When I can afford air bags...I will put them on the front.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Impressive workmanship and ingenuity! 


I'm glad you used the ambulance alternator.  And don't forget to mine that ambulance for other very high end electronics to use in your RV!  It probably has a true/pure sine inverter, and that inverter is probably a Dimensions or a Xantrex...either of which is an amazing inverter that will last you forever. 


Kev

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Also...what length is your 78 Brave?  And what are you plans for beefing up and modernizing the suspension, brakes, and wheels/tires?


Kev

[Sweethearts]

My Brave is the 26' version. If I could find a Dana 70HD with disc brakes; that would help with stopping.

[c farmer]

Wow   What a project.  Great job.  What I would give for a diesel in my old MH. 

[tmsnyder]

Wow, what a great project, nice work!