I broke the FORMED 1/4 brake line that connects the rear wheel cylinders

[mytoolman]

Happy 4th I hope everyone has had their fill of nice BBQ etc... I broke the Formed steel 1/4" brake line that ties the dual wheel cylinders together. Its the one that sit outside the backing plate on the rear brakes. Dodge M400 with twinplex brake system in the 1973 Class A Superior. It broke right at the 120 degree bend right at the double flair fitting that screws into the top wheel cylinder. Who sells one of these? Who can make one if no one sells it. Who sells a bending tool that will make the 120 degree bend with the nut already on the line?

[Preese]

I used a Harbor Freight line bender to redo all my brake lines but donââ,¬â,,¢t think they will get you the tight bend shown in your picture. If you make your own, these Eastwood bender pliers look like they would get the angle/radius you need:  https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Forming-Bending-Comfort-Grip-Handles/dp/B07PPHWQWS

[mytoolman]

thank you for taking the time to consider my problem here....I have that Eastwood  Pliers tool and while it is a very nice tool it will NOT bend the 120 degree bend in quarter inch brake line tubing without kinking the tube at the bend point. I read about filling the steel line with sand and then performing the bend. I did not have sand so I tried table salt. The bend was much better and did not kink all the way closed but it did not maintain its rounded shape it is considerably flat right at the bend. I wonder if sand is that much more dense and if that is the answer..so far two Napa bought 20 inch steel already flared lines in the trash....-$16.00.   The flare and its nut needs to be already made since the fastening nut for the flare needs to be in place near the flare because that bend wont allow the nut to slide up around that seep bend and out of the way to make a flare.....I have to get this even if I have to find a place to do them for me somehow.....Ill be spending some money and will then go with Stainless steel to make sure they dont rust out and are stronger....I wonder if I should blow another $8.00 and  try another Napa line and go to the beach and get a cupful of sand and try again...I live 2 miles from the Pacific Ocean in Carmel Valley San Diego...so I could get some sand....maybe sand will do the trick

[Rickf1985]

If you use copper/nickel brake tubing it is much easier to bend and form, also using the brake bending pliers and putting the flare and fitting on before making the bends. And since I KNOW there will be a bunch of people that immediately say "copper is not strong enough" I am adding a like to and article explaining copper alloy brake lines. Yes, they are safe and they are legal. And you can buy it in most automotive stores.


https://vtauto.org/copper-nickel-brake-line/




https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Nickel-Brake-Line-Universal/dp/B07BN2W29H/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_1/144-2677325-0900551?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07BN2W29H&pd_rd_r=02ead9ba-1e6f-4a11-970c-dcb32e4b7f9b&pd_rd_w=Iuky3&pd_rd_wg=e2Q1l&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=5VQ7SQ9GK3GDPFDF9S7Z&psc=1&refRID=5VQ7SQ9GK3GDPFDF9S7Z

[skloon]

That copper nickle stuff is great- I had a car fail inspection because they claimed I used copper pipe I had to give them a scrap piece and show them the website- this was on a Volvo that had this stuff from the factory

[mytoolman]

Wow this web site is touchy...I just lost my post again. Third time that has happened. I will now copy and paste anything I write to word before trying to add an attachment and losing a future post...starting with what I will now write.
UPDATE: David the Manager of San Diego Hydraulics took on the work of bending the cross over wheel cylinder 1/4" copper/nickel tube that is positioned on the outside of each of the rear brake backing plate. I needed him because I was so unsuccessful with my attempts. I even tried to find a local machine shop to make a die that might have produced the bend and could not get any of the three machine shops I visited to make what I envisioned.  Im not sure how David made the line he has produced. While it is NOT exact for the one bend that is the greatest issue because of its tight bend as compared to the original factory tube, it works. The bends he made show no flat crimp so that is a main thing. I am waiting for the other side to be made by him now that I know he can produce the line. He will only do this work after or before business hours since it is time consuming and he has other duties during normal business hours. It took him a week to find the time and do the work for the 1st line. Meanwhile...I went to visit my brother yesterday morning. His neighbor John M was a continual apprentice at Convair/General Dynamics from the time he started 40 years ago for the whole time he worked the almost 30 years he was there. The moved him from skill to skill to learn each skill. I should have thought of him when I had this problem. John has like a 160 IQ. He said Convair made these bends by using a product called Woods Metal or whats now branded as CerroBend....its a lead like metal with a very low molten point that while molten would be poured into a tube and allowed to solidify. Once in the tube as a solid the bend would be made and no crimp would happen because the line was solid inside. After the bends were completed he said they would heat the line to melt the filler and pour it out...Im not sure if David at SD Hydraulics is using this technique or not....Ill ask him as I pay him for his work when he finishes the remaining side....here is a link to CerroBend    https://www.industrialmetalsupply.com/Products/specialty-metals/cerro-bend#1