Transmission Cooler Line Splice

[Adventure]

Right now as a temporary fix I am splicing the top cooler line I've cut the bad part of the line out and am trying to connect a cooler line hose with 2 screw clamps on on both ends, the screw clamps don't seem to be the best choice and the hose is slightly leaking from the receiver end probably because the clamps aren't tight enough on that end?  I realize it would be best to flare the lines ends  and I have a single flare tool to work with , but so far I haven't been able to figure out how to flare it with the line connections in place, I've read that in some auto cases a brass fitting is a better choice but there is at least a foot gap between the ends Can I find this type of fitting at ACE? If a fitting won't work Between screw and pinch clamps which is the better choice? I'm sure it would've best to change the lines, could I find something on Amazon? Right now I have to work with what I have or can get nearby and have a temp fix so I can go at least 6 miles back and forth. Which  would be the better choice for the hose? How many quarts of ATF does the transmission take, is it an Allison?  Thanks for any tips?

[eXodus]

The Allision was an option not many did choose.  the 454 usually came with a 4L80E or a 4L85E  (identical from the plumbing parts)

Those transmission line have a decent pressure. When the pipe where you put the hose over is not completely smooth - it will continue leaking.  Further you are risking that the hose will come of - you loose all transmission fluid within a few seconds and burn up the transmission.

The p30 is a Chevy truck don't overthink it. 



You figure out which pipe is broken (I guess 14 or 15), then you look up the part number - and then you order a new one.
https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/chevrolet/53p-p/04/tp04-215/

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/chevrolet/53p-p/04/tp04-342/

If you are unable to get a hard line ordered - remove the whole line including both ends - go to a hydraulic shop in town - and get yourself a new flexible hose mode with those ends.

[Adventure]

It's more like #9 part #15986905 if it's available OEM is about $200-300, not in my budget, the good part is I can remove the part of the line from the cooler with no problem, it's the screw in type not the clip that some P30s have , the bad is where the line connects on the radiator, without the rig being on a lift, can only be accessed from the dog house it's in a really tight spot and a crowfoot wrench may help remove it, but I have to get one first. To make matters worse the lower line has a couple of pin holes in it and also needs to be replaced for now I put some JB Quick and Waterweld, it will hold up temporarily I know because I had some on the upper line and it stopped the leak but kept leaking from the lower line not realizing it till now, Anyhow my first choice and sensible one is to replace the lines but it's easier said then done, my only choices would be to order the line online, order hydro line and bend it myself with a bending tool, which I don't have but can order online, as I'm not near a parts store or hydro shop only ACE since my only other transport has a coolant leak and I need to get it to a shop to get it checked out, is replacing the line the only option? On here https://www.rvforum.net/threads/91-winnebago-transmission-cooling-line.138987 there is a discussion about using a hose and clamps and what I get is they are saying so long as it's flared it's ok, my guess would be double flared, also they mention compression union, so how about it, can I get away with it for a temporary fix till I can replace the line right?

[Eyez Open]

While there is no substitute for original OEM lines using the correct rubber hose for a splice cam be done quite effectively. Exhaust heat is your enemy here so avoid that by all means necessary. Use a good quality stainless steel clamp, the chances of replacing a properly done splice are rare..

You do not have flare a line fully, just enough so you can still insert the steel line into the rubber line. Always lube the lines well during insertion. Good quality clamps will not lose the line if they clamp down on the neck of the flare.

The above is a opinion only, based off many yrs of been there done that

https://hosetips.com/can-i-use-rubber-hose-for-transmission-cooling-lines/

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/belts---hoses/hoses/bulk-hose/bulk-transmission-cooler-hose--universal-/9f0f59375f37

[Adventure]

No substitute because of the length bending and fittings? Am I correct that the length of the gap just won't work with brass compression fittings? For what it's worth this is the hose I'm using  https://amzn.to/3vsjZwT  I would think is rated the same as the Gates hose. given the location of the hose splice relative to the engine I don't see heat exhaust as a problem. So a single flare is enough? Otherwise I will buy a double flare tool, One thing though I can't get the flare tool on the piece coming from the radiator without taking out that whole part of the line and I mentioned that's a difficult task, unless i can get a crowfoot wrench in there. Yes I need a good quality clamp the ones I bought at ACE are not up to the job. Is worm gear type reliable if it's stainless steel with a big screw? I have one on there now since it came off another hose that was replaced.  By lube I would think we talking about a a little  ATF or motor oil and not greasing it? Thanks

[Eyez Open]

I made a commentary on splicing a line, now that is different than replacing a line with rubber hose. I should go a bit further, splicing a line 3 or 4" in a straight shot is one thing, trying to splice/repair a extended line that has molded curves is another thing. Kinda like driving a RV going 60 mph, straight line no problem, a sudden 90 degree turn..  Personally I would not attempt that. Most hydraulic lines with a 90 degree turn in them have metal elbows, there is a reason for that..Sadly I might suggest using Doorman products if they make a replacement...A note here most all of the AC Delco products you buy today are of Chinese origin..and I do not wish to get political here.

Below is a mfg splice, notice it is flared, also notice it is a straight line, no turns or bends.

https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-53020-Transmission-Installation/dp/B000E0ZDS0/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1659288075&s=automotive&sr=1-7&vehicle=1983-47-475-20--104-1-7-4566--8-2-1035-121-1&vehicleName=1983+Chevrolet+P30

[Adventure]

So the splice I made required about 18 inches of hose, it's closer to the cooler, right now it's not leaking, I ran it for about 10 mins parked so the temp was hot enough to check the level, which is good, the clamps are on strong, speaking of it's funny you mentioned AC Delco as I was looking at stainless steel clamps they have but indeed they look like they are made in China crap, that should give you an idea on where I stand on that  subject.  Anyhow I need to do holding tank dump and it's only less than 500 feet from my space, so I wouldn't expect the transmission to get too hot, I may have to leave it running because sometimes it stalls in Park, I've been told that could be due to low ATF. Any info on that?  I realize doing a dump and driving 6 or even 3 miles is another thing and going to heat up the transmission a lot more, but come next Saturday I gotta go back to the beach 3 miles away so I better have this figured out. That fitting you linked to is double flared so I would imagine it's best to double flare it in fact the part that connects to the cooler is double flared but I guess that's due to it being screw in. At the moment I'm working with what I have but looks to me like I need a double flare tool, a few good solid clamps and and a crowfoot wrench. One thing I don't get is if they are saying there isn't that much pressure say compared to the PS line why the concern the hose will slip off?

[Adventure]

Got a dilemma I just checked the ATF level and the dipstick shows nothing, I have quarts arriving on Fri and I don't have a single quart to add, I need to do a holding tank dump it would be less than 10 minutes with motor running can ai get away with it without burning up the transmission?

[eXodus]

don't drive with a transmission without Oil if avoidable. Transmissions are very very expensive.

The pressure is much lower in the transmission lines compared to the Power Steering, but still not insignificant.