Rewiring for converter upgrade

[salplmb]

Sent: 6/14/2005

hi guys,
i have a progressive dynamics pd9160a converter i want to install. i read on the message search that i may need to rewire. it dose not say how to rewire. any suggestions?

right now i have 4 wires going into the old converter. 1 positive from the batteries and 1 positive from the load center also 2 negative. 1 from batteries and 1 from load center.

My old converter dose not charge but the new one does.

the schematic for the new converter shows just 1 positive  wire coming out of the converter and going to the batteries and the load center. same for the negative.

i am confused to how to hook this up. the old converter had a switch inside to go from shore power to battery power so that the batteries were cut out of the system when on shore power (no charger in old unit).

do i still need a switch? the way it shows the schematic it all just runs together. how dose the charger charge the batterys and supply power to the load center at the same time with just the 1 wire? i know i am not to elec. inclined so wanted to ask somebody who has done this swap or knows a little more than me. sorry for the long post but am going out this weekend and would like to get this figured out.
thanks again.
sal (electro-challenged)

[salplmb]

Sent: 6/15/2005

o.k.,
it turns out that it is so simple that I'm embarrassed to admit it. all the wires coming into the old converter just connect to the new converter. positive from batteries and load panel to positive lugs (2) and negative to negative lugs (2). only new wire i needed is for the ground from new converter. ran #8 wire to chassis ground lug. plug into plug in back same as before and back in business. very easy. now my lights seem to work a lot better and my batteries will finally be charged right. i don't know how the new unit can do all it dose through the same wires but I'm no electrician!(plumber) checked volts at the battery and in boost mode it was charging at 14.45 volts. i was never able to charge my batteries unless i was running the rig with the mom switch in dual mode. now i can plug in before i go and be all set. hope this helps somebody else a little. very nice and easy upgrade.
sal

[Oz]

Sent: 6/15/2005

That's great, Sal!  Isn't it good to find something electrical that isn't a novice's nightmare?  I hope to be installing a replacement converter soon too and enjoy dim-free lighting and plug-in charging like you.  Thanks for sharing the process in a simple, understandable manner for the electrically challenged.

- What'sAWattSob

[drummerboy]

Sent: 6/15/2005

Don't forget the Charge Wizard. Well worth the $25 more. I did the same swap last year and couldn't be happier. 

[enigma960080]

Sent: 6/15/2005

If  you  have a generator,  make  sure  you turn  off all the AC  via the  breakers  when  starting and stopping the  genset.  I  found out  the hard way  that converters do not  like  the  line voltages during  shut-down  or  start-up.

[biggrock1]

Sent: 6/16/2005

I did the same except with PD 9130. If you don't do hook-ups, it is a necessity in these old girls.
Howie

[salplmb]

Sent: 6/16/2005

just a quick update. had the rig plugged in over night and it is fully charged! when i used my car battery charger it took almost 2 days for the thing to get charged and it just didn't seem to last as long as when i got a charge from driving. the charge wizard is cool. just looking at the light tells you what the state of your batteries is by how fast it is blinking. it is also a lot more quite and gives me a little more storage space to! total win all around.
sal

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 6/17/2005

I don't know, folks.  I'm still using my trusty 30 something year old Phillips converter, and it operates like a champ.  Sure it hums a little (can't hear it with the AC on anyways), but heck!  12 volts even at all 12 volt power sources, on shore power AND generator power.  If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Kev

[JDxeper]

I am rewiring the 1968 Winne F-17 and putting in a new distribution panel with a battery charger.
WFCO 8735-P.
Couple of question about wire size:

A.  I plan to use 12-2 for the AC side and 15 amp breakers.  Is 12-2 good?
B.  What size of wire from the battery charger:
     1) positive to battery positive?
     2) negative to battery negative?
C.  Chassis ground to converter panel?

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=mgallery;sa=album;id=203

Probably have many more question as I go on the project.

[ibdilbert01]

(A) The general rule of thumb when working with Romex and house voltage is as follows:

14/2 - 15 amps
12/2 - 20 amps
10/2 - 30 amps

For Internal wiring I used 12/2 through my rig, but I'm sure 14/2 would be fine in most situations.   I also have read that stranded wire is preferred as apposed to solid.  The reason is the moving and vibrations of the vehicle allegedly can cause stress and weak points in the solid wire.   However I used regular solid romex, as I feel the above theory is way more overkill than even I am willing to do.    Your main power wiring coming into the rig should be the standard 10/2 outdoor shore power cable with a standard 30 amp plug.   

(B)

This can be tricky, as low voltage DC can be finicky on amps VS distance.     There is a chart on this page that should help.

http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm

(C)

This is a controversial RV topic across the net, however you should tie both the AC and DC grounds to the frame.   The AC Neutrals (White) will have their own common strip inside your converter box, they need to be isolated from the ground, unlike a house.   

http://www.rv-motorhome-answers.com/power-systems.html

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

DC wiring reference chart (bottom of page): http://bart.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/12volt/12volta.htm

AC wiring reference chart (middle of page): http://www.myrv.us/electric/

Manual for your converter says:
1. Input - 30amp AC source ergo thats 10 gauge AC wiring.  That needs to be with a seperate ground
2. Refer to label on converter door panel for proper wire sizes but the tables above should also help

The manual indicates the 3-stage charger voltage values but does not indicate the max charging current.  You need to use at least the minimum wire size listed on the door label.

Dave

[JDxeper]

Thanks for the replies and the references.
I have 10-2 shore line to delivery 30 amps to the converter and will have (5) 15 amp circuits and will use 12-2 wire there. will separate the AC and DC grounds to the chassis.  Now on to work on the DC side plan and wire size.  Thanks again.