Chassis undercarriage photo album... an invitation to the Dark Side!

[The_Handier_Man1]

From: DanD2soon  (Original Message)
Sent: 9/5/2006 11:08 PM

O.K. Gang - serious quest ahead of me - and I want your help...

Since we bought her, six years ago, we've concentrated on the 2 Soon's topside & cabin - making her dry & comfortable.  She's no Taj Mahal, but real liveable. 

A lot like a boat that's not been out of the water for ages, her bottom's been neglected;  My Bad.  She doesn't go like she used to or stop like she used to - her generator surges & sputters, her exhaust is getting louder & louder and she's always had a mind of her own as far as steering goes - more like keeping her drift within limits than pointing her head.

Over the Labor Day weekend,  I pulled the 2 Soon into the Doghouse, jacked her up, blocked her up, removed the wheels and took about a hundred pictures of her DARK SIDE - Even I am amazed at how well you can see things with the wheels off and enough room beneath her to get at stuff!   She's not coming down off those jackstands 'til a whole lot of stuff is checked, tuned, fixed, replaced, adjusted, cleaned, etc.   

That's where y'all come into the picture.  (Pardon the pun.)  I'm sure many of you spend as much time as I do pouring over the CW picture albums just looking at "how things are" or "what's where" or "how they did that."   So, I posted all those pictures to a public webshots album for anyone who's interested to see - I was really surprised at how many of them seemed like shots & angles of things I don't ever remember seeing pictures of before.  Enjoy.

I know lots of you have spent more time under these old girls than I have around them...  and I hope you folks will "see" things under there that don't "register" with me.  If you see something that makes you think you'd "check that out" or that raises a "red flag",  I hope you'll let me know so I can add it to the "TO DO" List - you can post them as replies to this discussion thread or e-mail your comments to DanD301@mchsi.com   Either way,  please don't expect 2 much, 2 Soon (couldn't help myself)  in the way of answers as this is going to be a slow process and right now, other than having just ordered new exhaust manifolds and beginning a parts list for Geoff at Alretta, I'm just wanting to develop a plan of attack.  When the "war" begins, I'll try to post accounts on the right CW message board for each "Battle."

Click this link for the pictures: 2 Soon - Haul Out - 2006 http://rides.webshots.com/album/553771593SCPnAF Once you're viewing the individual pictures, there is a "Full Size" button above & to the right that will give you a higher resolution shot of the ones you're interested in.

Thanks in advance,
DanD



From: Elandan2
Sent: 9/6/2006 12:12 AM

Hi Dan,  Great shots!!  I noticed that your engine has quite a bit of oil on it.  We all have to remember that these engines work very hard and that oil has the potential to catch on fire.  Just last week there was a motorhome that burned to the ground on the side of the road near here, it started as an engine fire and they unloaded 4 fire extinguishers on it and couldn't put it out.  The highway was closed for over four hours while the propane tanks vented shooting a 50 foot flame across the highway. The other advantage to keeping the engine relatively clean is increased cooling, having the engine covered is like wearing a fur coat in the summer.  Rick



From: ClydesdaleKevin
Sent: 9/6/2006 8:19 AM

Hey Dan!  Great pics!  That is one unique rig...is the body fiberglass, or metal?

Here are my suggestions.  You already said you were compiling a list for Geoff at Alretta...that was going to be my first suggestion!  Make sure you pull your drums though first...make sure the hardware/springs are still servicable, and if there is any question at all, replace them...Geoff has the springs.  Also, while you are at it, some of your brake lines, and especially the rubber hoses, look pretty crusty.  Replace any questionable brake line, and all of your rubber hoses.  Geoff has those as well.  Check the inside diameter of your brake drums and make sure they are OK/within spec.  If you have to replace the drums anyway, talk to Tom (Slantsixness) about how he converted his front brakes to disks! 

Another thing you already mentioned is something I was going to suggest as well...new exhaust manifolds.  Since you are getting new ones, then my observation about where your down pipes meet the manifold, and how crusty the gaskets are, doesn't apply...lol!  This is where mine were leaking...although I still have a mild manifold leak on the driver's side.

Next, grease fittings!  I'm not sure how often you grease your fittings, but in the pics it doesn't look like its been done in a while.  Every 1000 miles you should grease every single grease fitting under your rig.  Don't forget the one on the brake pedal axle, and the ones on your leaf spring shackles, and the ones in you universal joints on the propeller shaft.  Of course, every single grease fitting in the front end needs greased....and again, every 1000 miles!

The other thing you don't want to neglect is that electrical nightmare some previous owner left you...lol.  I thought the Ark was bad, and I'm still rewiring things and rerouteing wires under the Ark every time I see things that are hanging, deadended, etc.  Even if something is working, don't leave the wires like that.  Reroute them so they are safe, out of the way, neat, and stay clean and dry.  Also, it looks like the plug on your transmission is missing...I'm pretty sure the wire plug that is supposed to go there goes to your backup lights/neutral safety switch...find it and fix it.

Exposed plywood/thermopanels:  I noticed some of your wood looks like its either rotted, or the outside wood is starting to delaminate.  If its not too far gone, you can save it and preserve it!  Poke at it, and if its not soft, coat all exposed wood with fiberglass resin.  Not fiberglass, just the resin.  Its a 2 part resin, and drys/sets fast, so only mix up a little at a time, use disposable brushes and mixing containers, and coat all that wood!

Steering is probably just an adjustment.  Dave Denison can set you up with the easy way to adjust your gear box.

Shock absorbers look crusty, but no worse than mine.  Replace them if you can, but its not critical.

If you can get some oil between your leaf springs it will quiet them down.

Is that electric fuel pump stock?  If not, it looks well done!

Overall, your chassis looks in great condition!  Very little rust, and it looks solid!  You can use a rust converter if you want, and then paint them, but again, its not critical...it will last just as is longer than we will...lol!

Your holding tank exit valve needs a cap.  A cop can give you a ticket if there isn't a cap on it...

I noticed the sheet metal on your floor looks questionable in a couple of spots.  Are your floors soft, or solid?  If solid, just seal up the ends of the sheetmetal where it meets the skirts to keep moisture out.

Good luck, and have fun!

Kev



From: The_Handier_Man
Sent: 9/6/2006 12:29 AM

Dan,  You know these pictures bring back some memories, and not all of them good.  Rick brought up my thoughts on fire.  Since you have such a great shop to work in please keep it that way by having plenty of fire fighting equipment on hand.  A propane torch will help remove exhaust manifold studs but also start a good fire.  I like my Bagos raw not well done.  There is a big plus to having it outside when working on some things.  But I sure like pulling up the door and driving in.  I feel very fortunate to have a garage for my Wilbur.  Best of luck and maybe having the internet close by when working would be a good idea,   Les



From: DanD2soon
Sent: 9/12/2006 7:25 PM

Rick &Les,

Thanks for the comments - Right off - don't worry about fire - no torch - 5 extinguishers aboard & 2 huge ones in the shop.  Truthfully though, I really didn't know there was THAT much grime on the engine.  Cleanup & repainting are parts of "the Plan" and I understand your concerns - I had similar thoughts when I saw the residue & was really glad to have found it before it became a problem.  The top of the engine is not pretty, but is mostly clean, rusty, or dusty - not much of a hint to the mess beneath the valve covers - and that area is almost impossible to inspect visually with the wheels on and the Motorhome not jacked up.  The LESSON HERE - Jack it up or drive it up on ramps and take a closer look - Like I said above, "her bottom's been neglected;  My Bad" - I should have known better and should have expected something like this.  Luck's been with me.

Kev,

I want to get to your questions, but time is short tonight - I'll try to get to all of them in further posts - in the meantime...

The drums are off and pictures posted!  Everything came apart easily and there weren't too many surprises.  Like always - more questions than answers.  I'm adding new pictures to the front of the album ( 2 Soon - Haul Out - 2006 ) http://rides.webshots.com/album/553771593SCPnAF so y'all don't have to look through the whole thing each time, but as I start separate projects, I'll try to post the info & questions on the right message boards with appropriate titles.

Just a note here:  So far, All indications are that the 2 Soon is a Pre- February 1971, M-300 chassis -  159" wheelbase, 10,000 lb GVW, Optional 413-1, 4.10 ratio Spicer 70 rear end,  with 12-1/8 x 2" shoe-single wheel cylinder front drums and 13 x 2 1/2" shoe-single wheel cylinder rear drums on a split system with dual vacuum boosters.

Later,
DanD

p.s. one of the new Manifolds arrived today - looks great - expect the other tomorrow.



From: DanD2soon
Sent: 9/24/2006 6:37 PM
 
Kev,

Thanks for the reply - some answers...

Body - 6 fiberglass moldings, front cap, rear cap, 2 Quarter Panels full front to rear, 2 sidetop to roof rounded panels full front to rear.
            Side & Roof construction is very similar to Winne thermopanel, wood framing with foam fill beneath plastic/fiberglass laminate side panels and aluminun roof sheeting
.

Grease fittings - I've put nearly 6000 miles on it since we bought her & I've had it lubed twice - last time about 2,000 miles ago

Wiring - working on it a little at a time - NS switch is not working & I had the plug off it testing backup lights.

Steering - Dave e-mailed his adjustment procedure over a year ago - its on the list.

Fuel pump setup - the 413 has a block off plate over the mechanical pump location - there were two electrics (one for each tank) on it when I got it. I replaced them with this heavy duty one when I switched  to the electric tank selector solenoid.   I expanded on a suggested outboard filter location of Denison's when I chose the arrangement and location for pump, selector & filters.  Plan to replace filters & fuel lines as part of this project.

Tank dump valve has a cap - I keep a bucket under it for grey water when I'm sitting.  (moved for pictures)  Even so, I may redo the entire grey/black water system.

Later,
DanD



From: DanD2soon
Sent: 10/13/2006 8:06 PM

O.K. Gang - I expect this to be my last post to this thread - and the first post to the project thread.

the TO DO LIST! 

Early M-300 Chassis Rehab (pre-Feb. '71) - 8 Lug Budd, 10,000 Max.GVW, 413-1, 159" WB, Spicer 70 rear (4.10 ratio). 

Project Photo Link =   Early M-300 Chassis Rehab (pre-Feb. '71) - 8 Lug Budd http://rides.webshots.com/album/554675047aEaFmg   

My plan is to disassemble nearly everything first as that will give me access to the "Deepest" problem areas;  and then reassemble from the Inside-Out.
(i.e. the exhaust manifolds will be easier to replace with the Hubs/Drums, Shock mounts, Master Cylinder, A/C Compressor, etc. out of the way.)
So the list is in more-or-less Alphabetical order & the project will be in more-or-less Layer order.

Brakes
    Front 12 1/2 x 2" drums - Replace wheel cylinders, springs, adjusters,  reline as needed
    Rear 13 x 2 1/2" drums - Replace wheel cylinders, springs, adjusters,  reline as needed
    Boosters - Check, Rebuild, Adjust as needed
    Lines & Hoses - Replace as needed
    Master Cylinder - Replace MC , Flush system, refill with DOT 5.1 & Bleed.
    Parking - Rebuild & Adjust

Engine
    A/C Compressor - Remove & Install correct Fanbelt
    Cooling - Radiator, Water Pump, Belts
    Wiring - Clean up, Neaten & Replace as needed
    Carburetor - Rebuild/Replace
    Tune up - plugs, points, condenser / Distributor parts as needed 

Electrical
    Engine Wiring - Clean up, Neaten & Replace as needed
    Chassis Wiring - Clean up, Neaten & Replace as needed
    Battery Bank - Check, clean contacts, Replace Batts if/as needed
    Kohler Genset - Rehab/Rebuild

Exhaust
    Manifolds cracked - Replace
    Exhaust Pipes - Rework/Replace
    Heat Shields - Reinstall/Fabricate

Fuel System
    Gas Guages - fix
    Lines & Filters - Replace
    Old Selector Valve - Remove

Hubs
    Modify for Aluminum Wheels - Replace ALL 32 Lug studs and Nuts with longer, Right hand threaded ones.
    Wheel Bearings - Clean, Repack/Replace as needed & Reinstall
    Wheel Seals - Replace

Plumbing - Drain System & Holding tanks - Repair/Replace as needed

Rear End - Drain, Clean Housing & Axle Tubes, Replace gaskets and gearlube

Steering - Gearbox & Toe in - Check & Adjust

Suspension - Shocks - Replace

Transmission - Cooler Radiator - Flush, check lines & replace as needed