Problem with fuel tank set-up

[captainpine]

From: captainpine  (Original Message)
Sent: 11/17/2003 12:35 AM

My 72 brave d-18 has twinn tanks, but the PO said to use only the passenger's side tank. There is only a valve to switch between the two tanks, no solenoids. There have been discussions about vapor lock, When I check out the second tank do I need to add a fuel pump, a level guage?  PS, am making progress with a new roof and 1000 watt inverter.



From: Sea Hag
Sent: 11/17/2003 8:26 AM

If it originally came with the rear tank , I think most of them did , it should already have a gauge in the rear tank . The fuel pump on the engine draws from which ever tank is selected at the valve . I haven't seen any with a manual valve . Some PO may have removed the electric valve . On my 76 D23C and most others on diccusions boards have a switch on the dash that operates an electric seiniond valve unit that switches tanks and the fuel gauge in the dash to that tanks level sensor .  - Sea Hag



From: Liv42dayOK
Sent: 11/17/2003 8:58 AM

Not sure about the pump thing.  Mine has a switch and solenoid ('74 Indian).  Just the one OEM mechanical pump.  Run the low octane fuel (good news since it's less expensive, no?).  The high octane doesn't add any to performance for low RPM engines and may burn up your valves. - Sob



From: denison
Sent: 11/18/2003 7:12 AM

Your 318-3, acording to the Dodge Service Training Highlights book, has stellite faced exhaust valves and induction hardened valve seats. Its compression ration is 7.8 to 1, lower than that of the passenger car engines that were 8.6 to 1. So it can run on any gasoline they sell at the pumps. I try to remember to put in an additive when I refuel -- whose purpose is to prevent adverse wear of the valve seats -recessing deeper into the head. However I don't think it is a big deal - unless you intend to put more than 50k more miles on your winny in the next very few years. My guess is that corrosional deterioration of the oil control rings on the pistons will drive me to a rebuild long before the valve seats wear. My 413 engine has 91k miles, and great compression. denison



From: Liv42dayOK
Sent: 11/18/2003 9:18 AM

I put a packet of Swiss Miss in with every tankful (WARNING:  don't use the kind wiht marshmallows!  They clog the fuel filter).  Not only does it run smooth and smell good, it tastes GREAT when I have to siphon gas from one tank to the other.

My 443.5-A1-3EIEIO, has just turned 17,000,000 miles, give or take a couple of acres (the odometer is a little off - like me),  It doesn't have any compression but, it's such a good engine that, it doesn't need compression.

I'll even share a little know fact about this engine too.  It was specifically designed for the roaming farmer/rancher.  That's right!  If you take off the grill and radiator, rev it up to 5,000 rpm and put a brick on the gas pedal, it will finely dice and even puree bushels of any kind of fruit (including green cocoa nuts), as well as small farm animals:  chickens, piglets and baby Llamas, etc.  Armadillos will  knick the blade so, you'll want to keep a spare on hand, or shell them first, if you have the time.  Hope this helps with... something - Sob



From:
Sent: 11/19/2003 4:59 PM

     I usually run 93 octane gas in my 1969 D-24 with the 318-3.  I don't notice much difference between 87 and 93 octane, so I may just run the 87.  I do however add a bottle of lead substitute at each trip to the gas pump.  You may get a discount if you but the stuff by the case, LOL.



From: denison
Sent: 11/19/2003 10:49 PM

Is it possible the previous owner advised not using the other tank just because it plugged up fuel filters too often? There is a solution: buy fuel filters in quantity, the plastic kind you can see into, and place it where you can see it without sliding too far under the machine. I would think both tanks would need a fuel gauge, but if they are the same type and you have a good low-impedance switch, you could get away with just a single gauge. I had a homemade rv with a mechanical fuel switch. It worked well, but as I couldn't reach it from the drivers seat I had to pull over to switch it if I was driving alone. Being able to change tanks with the electric switch is nice, but not a necessity. You shouldnt have to add a fuel pump for the 2nd tank, and vapor lock would only be a problem if the fuel lines ran near-to and in sight of the exhaust system. I put in heat shields. I would advise putting a heat shield between the exhaust system and the fuel tanks too. denison



From: nvdesertrat0775
Sent: 11/20/2003 1:24 PM

My 73 Brave also has the mechanical switch.  It's hard to reach from the seat without bending down, so I try to only use it when the RV isn't moving.  If it's hard to turn, try soaking it with WD-40 and moving it only a little at a time until it's free.
   If you put a decent 'clear' filter between the selector switch and the carb, and replace it as needed, you can get away with only using one fuel filter.  But...be prepared to replace it often!
  If you have a problem using the second tank, you might want to visually check the line from the tank to the selector switch.  Quite often there's a shut0ff valve close to the tank.  But any PO could have moved it or taken it out.  Mine has one.
  If you have access to an air compressor, I suggest disconnecting the line from the second tank AT the selector switch and (with the gascap removed) seeing if air will blow completely thru the line.  If it doesn't, you can remove the fuel line from the tank and by using air from the compressor find out if it's the line or the tank that's blocked.  Don't put 160lbs of air pressure into it, lol.
  I installed the second tank myself, and didn't bother putting a gauge on it.  But..., I know pretty well how far it will take me, and I rarely make extended trips.
  Hope this helps a little...
  Rat



From: UluzYarx
Sent: 2/22/2004 6:48 PM

My sixpence says that your second tank leaks or the petrol from it blocks the filter.

Use the lowest grade petrol (gas?) that your engine and tune will allow.

Vapour lock is in the carb ~ insulate the petrol pipe as it goes past the exhaust - fit a heat shield under the carb ~ get your under bonnet (under hood?) temperature down with a big electric fan



From: mightybooboo
Sent: 2/23/2004 10:14 PM

I use 87 octane in my 440,runs just fine.
BooBoo