installing an electric fuel pump

[The_Handier_Man1]

From: Colin  (Original Message)
Sent: 12/4/2002 5:46 PM

I'm considering adding an auxiliary electric fuel pump on my 413 to prime the carburator when it runs dry and to give the mechanical fuel pump a boost. Do you install the electric pump in line or in parallel to the mechanical pump?  Do you need to install a check valve?  if so where?  Thanks for your help and advice.



From: Dave1210
Sent: 12/4/2002 8:08 PM

I just had to install one last weekend to get home, my mechanical pump was leaking bad. (glad I noticed it leaking) I hooked it up were the fuel lines normally connect to the mech. pump and then ran a wire w/ a switch from the starter solenoid to the pump then to a ground. Worked fine!  Lucky I had have it in my tool box for the last 8 years since I took it of my dune buggy.

If I were installing one permanently, I would mount it somewhere inline w/ the fuel line and after both tanks. If you want to run it all the time, then it should be hooked to your oil pressure gauge and when the engine starts to turn over the switch closes therefore turning the fuel pump on. This way if you crash the fuel pump will shut off when (if) the engine dies. If you just want to run it to prime the carb or help on hills then a toggle switch should do fine.

Anyone have the part # handy for a 413 mechanical fuel pump?

Dave



From: cartinkr
Sent: 12/4/2002 9:49 PM

Colin - If your electric pump has “flap” type valves, i.e. fuel won’t flow backwards through it, I would install it in parallel with the mech pump, using two T fittings & you shouldn’t need a check valve. The mechanical pump is that way - the fuel will only flow through it one way - therefore no check valve is needed. If your electric pump allows a lot of “backflow” when it isn’t running I would put it in series with the mech pump, and closer to the tanks. I would not put it at the lowest place in the line, so ice won’t fill it on freezing nights. If you don’t know how old your mechanical pump is I would replace it anyway, cause it can fail with a slow leak in its bladder that will slowly pee fuel into your crankcase and thin the oil. I think it important to install the new pump where it isn’t too close to the manifold, preferrably where it isn’t in “sight” of the radiant heat from the manifold, which can reach 1000 degrees on a long climb. I favor a spring loaded “momentary” switch to operate it for priming the carb. I replaced all the fuel lines I could find after suffering a mysterious air leak in the line from the tank to the fuel selector assembly. I also like to put aluminum heat shields between the exhaust parts, fuel lines, and fuel tanks.

Dave - I hope the fuel pump will be easy to get. When I replaced my 413’s mechanical pump (its diaphram was disintegrating) with a new one I told the counterman I had a ‘73 440, cause his books only showed 413’s being on Chryslers in the middle 60’s. I had the old one with me, and he had several similar that had the same mounting and lever arm, but they all had the fuel outlet fitting at a different angle than mine. So I bent the metal feed line about 45 degrees to connect it. It worked fine. Later I replaced the metal fuel feed line. I used bundy tubing for this, it worked fine also.
The mopar part # is 3004107 for the 413 fuel pump, 3780113 for the 440’s.
I had also planned to install an electric pump so I could fill the float bowl when the winny had been sitting for a few weeks, and even bought a pump - which has spent the last 7 years in my spares box. I never installed it cause I found that I usually needed to take the dog house off anway, to lube the choke and throttle cables, lube the 413’s water pump, inspect for coolant leaks, etc. And I would run fuel into the carb float bowl at the same time.
denison



From: UluzYarx
Sent: 2/19/2004 12:17 PM

Parallel.

You need a valve between the electric pump and the carburettor if you can blow through the electric pump from eother direction.
The mechanical pump has two valves.