Part numbers for the Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump for 86 Fleetwood Southwind?

[tintin]

I figured out that the fuel pump is a Carter P4070 and I assume that in the earlier Southwind models they did not have the in-tank fuel pumps.




Any idea what part number the fuel filter is?




Thanks!!!

[tintin]

Figured it out.. it appears to be that this is a GF-62T fuel filter canister which takes GF-157 fuel filters. Thanks!

[Rickf1985]

If it does not have 1/2" line coming from the tank then it probably does not have the in tank pump. 85-86 were the years they were changing to the electric pump and if you have an 86 coach it will be an 85 chassis.

[tintin]

Thanks for your wealth of knowledge Rick!!!

[Rickf1985]

Some I can take credit for but other stuff I can tell you that I learned from here. That tidbit is a "learned from here" one.

[BrianB]

... and if you have an 86 coach it will be an 85 chassis.

That is not universally true. I have an 86 coach built on an 86 chassis. Depends on when in the model year the coach was built.

[TerryH]

Interesting. First I've read of, pre mid 90's, where the chassis and coach share the same year. May cause some confusion parts wise as most consider chassis one year and build year the next. Generally used when parts searching.

[RANGERRICK]

Don't forget to change the inline fuel filter on the inside of the frame rail on the door side towards the front.
AC509 1/2 barbed.

[Rickf1985]

I think that is only on the ones with the electric pump in the tank. It sounds like his is pre-pump.

[BrianB]

Don't forget to change the inline fuel filter on the inside of the frame rail on the door side towards the front.
AC509 1/2 barbed.

Fuel line and filter are on the outside of the right frame rail on a 1986 P30 chassis.

[CapnDirk]

Easy way to tell if you have an in tank pump.  Look at the right frame rail behind the rear wheels for a pressure regulator.  Needed to step down the electric pump pressure.  Rick posted a pic of what it looks like on another thread, and what it took for him to get to it.   


Also, you may just want to eliminate that dinosaur fuel filter and go with a 1/2 inch in and out metal case filter.  Easier to find and replace.

[legomybago]

Also, you may just want to eliminate that dinosaur fuel filter and go with a 1/2 inch in and out metal case filter.  Easier to find and replace.

I just took one out of my fuel system pre-mechanical pump due to the filter assembly sucking air. I replaced with a standard metal inline filter post-pump. No more gasket to deal with...

[Rickf1985]

Fuel line and filter are on the outside of the right frame rail on a 1986 P30 chassis.

On my 89 it is on the inside and on my 90 Pace Arrow it is on the inside. They were constantly changing things. The newer ones have cabinets that almost touch the frame on the outside, that is probably why it was moved, just though about that.

[CapnDirk]

Say Rick...  I think you said that your fill was on the right side?  If so is the regulator on the left? 


Just trying to give OP good info on the location.

[Rickf1985]

Nope. Fill, regulator, lines and filter are all on the right side going right to the mechanical fuel pump. The lines up around the rear axle are a real cluster **** so I cannot give any advice from mine on them until I drop my tank and get some pictures.

Here was my regulator, this is from inside the rear side compartment. I had to cut the back side of the compartment. Those are the fill and vent lines above.





Here is the outside of the same compartment. You can see that they lined up the edge of the compartment perfectly with the center of the regulator and them welded a brace right across it! I had to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the regulator so I could angle it enough to get the screws out to get to the diaphragm.

[legomybago]

What a pain Rick....

[Rickf1985]

Yes it was and when I drop the tank I will look into repositioning it somewhere reasonable.

[CapnDirk]

Rick, that's horrible!


How much thinking ahead would it have taken them to avoid that?  Especially in light of how many of those P30 chassis the motorhome companies dropped houses on.  And the consumers are the ones paying a thousand dollars to an RV dealership/mechanic to replace their $40 regulator.


Sorry, One of my pet peeves is that that the manufacturer should be required by law to use it first before they offer it to the public. 

[Rickf1985]

Some cars were no better. Being a mechanic my entire life I have seen some good ones that the engineers obviously never has to work on them selves. The V8 Chevy Monza spark plugs, also spark plugs on a 440 Barracuda from the 60's. Granted these are just a couple of examples and are basically specialty cars but there were many regular cars with impossible to get at parts.

The thing is this, it is a human being that is putting that piece of metal in front of that regulator. Don't you think he could call the boss and say "Hey, look at this"?  But the hose for the regulator is propitiatory so they are limited in where they could put it without making a new hose and that would probably run them into warranty issues.

[BrandonMc]

Does a Carter P4070 inline fuel filter allow for it to be mounted and to pass fuel through without it running?


Question for the curious as I ordered one of these, but I also have an in-tank fuel pump. Could this P4070 be used as a back up pump connected to a switch at the dash in case the in-tank pump goes?

[Rickf1985]

It is a rotary vane pump which will pass fuel but there will always be some restriction. That is the same pump they used as stock equipment on the Dodge 24 valve diesels, they were not known for longevity and that was with diesel fuel. If I were going to put a spare pump in line as a back up I would plumb it as a bypass with manual valves. Mount it on the frame but instead of having it inline with the regular fuel line Tee a line off to that pump with a shut off valve after the "T" in the main line, then T the spare back into the main line after the the shut off valve. This way in normal operation you are pulling gas through the main line with no restriction, if the in tank pump fails just shut off the valve and turn on the spare pump and now you are feeding the same line through the "T" with the spare pump and the main line is isolated to that pump only. Sounds a lot more complicated than it is.

[BrandonMc]

I was about to put this on, but now I may wait to do it - thanks for the advice. Got to question why the military wanted these if they fail so readily. I understand the bypass you're talking about. perhaps I would by pass this project as well if this isn't the greatest idea.

[Rickf1985]

Military?

[BrandonMc]

Military?

yes, i've seen it referenced in a number of places.


"The Carter P4070 was originally designed for military vehicles, but works quite well for a wide range of civilian vehicles from RVs to boats and also makes a great addition to cars which are expected to have high performance."

http://www.mechanicalcaveman.com/best-electric-pump-for-carburetor-fuel-pump-review/

[Rickf1985]

I have never seen one of those pumps on the many military vehicles I have owned or worked on, this is the standard electric external pump used on all military equipment from the late 50's up to now. Keep in mind that all of the military stuff is 24 volt also. They do make this pump in 12 volt. In searching Google I see where that is advertised but I have been buying and selling military vehicles for 30 years and I have never seen those pumps on any of them except for some rare Repurposed Dodge diesels which were actually repainted civilian trucks used by the military.
http://www.oshkoshequipment.com/products/detail/91/4600/Electric-Fuel-Pump-Kit-24-Volt
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Facet-Electric-Fuel-Pump-24V-MS-51321-2-Military-Truck-Heater-M151-M35-M998-M715/332722079037?hash=item4d77c8053d:g:UsAAAOSwivNbQVjF