How do I remove 440 Dash AC

[class87]

From: Cooneytoones  (Original Message)
Sent: 4/9/2006 9:12 PM

I want to take the dash AC compressor unit off "The Doghouse", since the 440 takes up a lot of space anyway,  it is just a white elephant and always in my way when I try to do anything with the alternator or the PS unit. It has no belt on it....Just wanted to know if there was anything I should look-out for when removing.
And the lines I guess, I would just plug after removal?

Thanks, 
Timmy



From: Easybago
Sent: 4/9/2006 9:23 PM

Timmy, I removed mine along with the condenser shortly after I got it. Mine was already out of refridgerant, so I didn't have to worry about that part of it. Actually, it was fairly simple to remove but it seems like I had to remount the compressor mount because something else was attached to it. As for the lines going to the coil back up under the driver's side dash, I just ty-strapped them to something around the front of the engine. You really shouldn't have any problems.

Good luck!

Randy



From: Im-still-Lefty
Sent: 4/9/2006 11:27 PM

Timmy,
If your system still has a refrigerant charge, you'll have to empty it... now I'm not going to tell you how that could be done, it's R-12, and releasing it into the atmosphere is a very big no-no, but that's up to you... If it already is empty, then removing the lines and compressor would be simply a matter of unbolting, as another member said, make sure that the compressor mount isn't supporting another part. Lines can be loosened with 2 wrenches, They likely would be very tight after being untouched for many years. I would remove them at the evaporator under the dash, and pull them completely out. Capping would not be necessary unless you ever plan to replace everything in the future. removing the condensor in front of the radiator would be both a weight saving, and a cooling benifit. I would leave the evaporator, because it has minimal impact on the heater output, and removing it wouldn't be worth it., but everything else could definantely go.
Because converting to R-134a is easy when done right, and really not very expensive, I rarely suggest removing a system that is still complete, but not working, because most of the time, the compressor is still ok, just the refrigerant has all leaked out. O-rings are easily replaced, and air-powered vacuum pumps can be purchased for as little as $15.(Harbor Freight) . O-Ring and R-134a conversion kits run $30, including the ester oil, R-134a was about $5 a can last month. (takes about 5-6 cans for a full charge) a new drier would be around $25-30. So a complete retro would be around $100, if the compressor is ok. Add about $100 for a re-man compressor if it's not. Also, a qt. of flush is a necessity, you just pour it in one opening, and blow it out from the other. Another thing to think about is the hoses...new ones would have to be custom made re-using your old ends. Any automotive AC shop should be able to make them. R-134a requires "barrier hose" which is made of a different compound, and won't alow the smaller R-134a molecules to seep through. Without them, you would have to add R-134a periodically, as it leaks out. Probably no more than a can a year though. I've seen units that were working like they should, and they do help a lot. They won't cool a whole rig easily, but they will keep the drivers and passenger area fairly well cooled. And if left on Max-AC, can cool down the whole rig, in a couple of hours driving. Especially if you have tinted windows. But, the dash air unit will cause mileage to suffer (a little), and available power will be less (about 15hp-20hp) this isn't a problem with a 440, but a 318 would probably struggle. If running a genset and roof air instead, cooling the rig is usually much better and a lot faster, but the genset will use more fuel than running the dash AC would.

                                                                           Lefty
 


From: 79brave
Sent: 4/9/2006 11:43 PM

Just another thought. If the compressor is good and the system is just empty of R-12. I would just reservice it. There is a drop in replacement for R-12, it is hot shot. R-414. The servicing and pressures are just the same. Any HVAC service tec. should be able to service it for you.
I did my 79 Brave. the nice thing is you can mix the two. My was just low and now is blows 36 deg. air.
  HAL