Tip: The Effects of Storage on Engine & Fuel

Started by The_Handier_Man1, November 26, 2008, 04:51 PM

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The_Handier_Man1


From: cooneytunes  (Original Message)
Sent: 12/28/2005 9:50 PM

Here's some good to do storage tips for you Rig....

'Tis the season where the weather gets chillier and particularly motorhomes, are stored for long periods during the winter months. Long-term storage can be hard on an engine if preventative maintenance is not performed.

The engine oil and filter should be changed immediately before the vehicle is put into storage. This prevents the acids in the oil from doing corrosive work on bearings during the storage period. Also, proper amounts of fuel additive should be pouted into the gasoline tank to prevent fuel deterioration and formation of varnishes on the surfaces in the fuel systems, particularly injector nozzles and carburetor components. This is especially important with oxygenated fuels. Fuel-storage additives are sold in all auto-parts stores.

The vehicle should be driven for a few minutes to circulate the oil and the additive-protected fuel. Just prior to parking the vehicle, idle the engine and inject enough light oil ( 3 in one or Marvel) into the carburetor or EFI intake to produce smoke from the exhaust. This coats the cylinders to prevent rust. Boating-supply stores sell oil in aerosol cans designed for this purpose. Shut the engine down after the smoke appears.

During the storage period the engine should not be started because this wipes away the oil coating in the cylinders and also causes formation of water in the crankcase and exhaust system due to condensation.

Be sure to use enough fuel additives to protect the entire contents of the tank. It's best to store the vehicle with the fuel tank full to minimize water formation due to condensation. A complete chassis lubrication and check-out should also be performed. Tires should be inflated to normal pressures for travel. Provisions should be made for battery charging once a month unless the battery is a gel-type that does not self-discharge as rapidly as an open-cell battery.

Then your spring start up should be a cinch, and you you engine will love you for it...

Timmy




From: Im-still-Lefty
Sent: 12/29/2005 12:43 AM

Good tips Timmy, I'd like to add, make sure that you don't forget to do the same for the genset. Lefty




From: The_Pharaoh_Rulz_
Sent: 12/29/2005 11:17 PM

The spray oil for winterization sold at boating places is called a "fogger".  When you go to use the rig in spring, you want to run the motor until the smoke clears from the exhaust and then replace the plugs.