73' dodge 440-3 rear main seal leak is it rubber or rope?

Started by gezundheit, July 16, 2014, 10:25 AM

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gezundheit

i,d use some Bars rear main seal concentrate but this stuff and others like it only work if the seal is rubber or some sort of compound.it won't work if the seal is rope.so,my question is,do i have
a rope or rubber rear main seal? Hm?

Oz

QuoteService seals are of split rubber type composition.  The seals make it possible to replace the upper rear seal without removing the crankshaft.  The seal must be used as an upper and lower set and cannot be combined with the rope seal.

A rope seal is supplied in the engine gasket package to be used when engine is rebuilt.


There is a rope and rubber seal.  Adding the stop leak may only work for a little while or it may not work at all.  I had the same problem and tried the stop leak.  Didn't work at all.

Replacing the seal really isn't difficult.

Complete info on this is found on page 297 of the '69-'73 Dodge Service eManual available in the club store.  Highly suggest getting it.  You also get a free membership upgrade with it.

Message Search results:

Temporary fix for seal leak:
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,4093.msg17624.html#msg17624

Info on seal replacement:
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=480.new#new
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

gezundheit

i'm ok with giving the Bars concentrate a shot at it.will let you know if it works.regards,gesundheit.

acenjason

My 75 D21 has a leaking rear main. I changed the oil about 100 miles ago and put in some bars stuff. Still leaks ..... $@!#@!

povertycoach

Those types of products are generally band-aids covering an axe wound.

gezundheit

The rear main seal turned out to be the rope type.i installed a kit from "440 source".
It included a billet aluminum seal receiver,a split "rubber" type seal and end seals, That go into slots that are machined into the receiver.the hardest work is removing The rope seal from around the crankshaft without damaging the bearing surface.i Used a 1/4" brass rod for that but first loosened the main bearing bolts a couple of turns first to make it easier to slide the rope seal out.the seal is made by fel-pro,it's Not necessary to get a new receiver,you can do the job with the new split seal and end seals alone.i found the split seal a tiny bit oversize for the crankshaft,so I cut it To size with my Dremel and installed both split seals in their places.i layed a bead of Sealer,about 1" on the billet receiver for the lower seal to adhear too and also in the Receiver slots for the side end seals.also on the split seal ends,this will lock them Together when all is bolted up.i found permatex Indian head gasket sealer to be a
Superior product to a silicon sealer in this application.this sealer when applied to both mating surfaces and let to tack up,worked great.my 440-3 had a windage tray Which meant 2 oil pan gaskets.i let everything cure for 24.hrs.before refilling with oil And then starting her up.no leaks,it's been 1500 miles now.