What's the difference between $30 and $125 starters?

[CCTVED]

Ok help me understand the difference between a $29.99 and a $124.99 for my P30
when it comes to my family I want the best..
but I don't understand why a starter can be $24.99 to $124.99 auto zone show 4 for my year

[Mr. T]

I went with the mid priced one for my replacement.  I think I paid around 80.00.  I took my old one with me to match up.  I did not have to do any shimming.  Be sure to put some insulation between the solenoid and the engine block.


Don T.

[Lefty]

The $24.99 starter is a standard direct drive unit that is rebuilt. It has a 1 year warranty. In the ValueCraft Series, all internal components are inspected to be within wear tolerances, and replaced if they fail to meet these tolerances.
A Direct Drive starter is driven directly from the electric motor attached, at a 1:1 ratio.

The $124.99 starter is a Gear Reduction Drive starter. It comes with a Limited Lifetime Warranty (Good for as long as you, the original purchaser, owns the vehicle against defects in material or workmanship)... Essentially, if it ever quits working as long as you own it, AutoZone will replace it with another one, but the warranty is not transferable if you sell the vehicle.

In the Peak Performer Series, the entire unit is disassembled, and all internal wear parts are replaced with new parts.. regardless if the old parts were worn or not. This ensures that no parts are missed that might be on the verge of failure, increasing both product life, as well as decreasing the number of units that are defective right off the shelf.
Also, changes in the way the internal parts were designed are made, if a better solution is found.. such as increasing the number of windings of the stator to increase starter torque or power, or switching to a different material for the holding assembly for the starter brushes, to prevent premature burnout or cracking. the ValueCraft Series and the DuraLast Series only use OE type parts, even if those parts have a known failure issue, and better parts have been made.This is one thing that separates the Performer Series from the other two.

Lastly, the Performer Series is a Gear Reduction Starter. This style is a more expensive design to produce, as it uses internal gearing to multiply the torque of the starter motor. This allows a much smaller and lighter motor to be used, which can help reduce hot start issues (by allowing more distance between the exhaust and the starter), as well as help in solving clearance issues in the case of headers.

As stated on the products information page, Starter shims may be needed to compensate for the different nose cone used, but instructions are included with the starter.

The Duralast Starter that was $79.99 is a brand new starter, not rebuilt. And comes with a Lifetime Warranty. It is a standard Direct Drive starter.
The Duralast Starter that was $46.99 is a premium rebuilt unit, meaning all internal wear parts are replaced.. it also has a Lifetime Warranty It is also a standard Direct Drive starter.

Basically, it boils down to this.
If you want an inexpensive starter that has been rebuilt, with any parts needing replaced replaced, and is the same style as your old unit... Get the $24.99 one
If you want one that has had everything inside replaced, for added peace of mind, get the $46.99 one
If you'd feel better knowing that it was a brand new, never rebuilt starter... get the $79.99 one

And if you have been having hard start problems when hot, drive regularly in hot areas of the country, or have headers installed... pay a bit more and get the $124.99 one.

[CCTVED]

Lefty
Thank you so very much sorry that really helps me

[cncsparky]

At a minimum, get the lifetime warranty one.  Heard that Autozone is good about exchanging one no questions.  Keep your receipt with you in the RV. 

[Lefty]

There is nothing wrong with the $46.99 unit.
It has been fully remanufactured (I'll go into more detail on this in a moment) to be essentially identical in appearance and performance as a brand new starter. They are fully pre tested at the factory to meet factory O.E. specifications, and come with a Limited Lifetime Warranty. As long as you are the original purchaser, any AutoZone in the country will replace it free of charge if it ever quits. I would not only keep the original receipt.. but would also make a photocopy of it as well,as the ink used on the original receipts has a habit of fading away after a few months. Basically, they will need your phone number it was originally registered under, as well as the location it was purchased at to pull it up in the system.

The brand new option is higher, but there are those that insist on new parts vs rebuilt/remanufactured parts.

Rebuilt vs. Remanufactured: What's the difference?

A Rebuilt part is taken in as a core, whenever a purchaser turns in their old broken unit. The part is disassembled, and all the non-wear parts are cleaned and then inspected for damage or cracks (The nose cone and starter outer housing for example). The internal parts, such as the main shaft, brushes and brush holders, and bearings, are cleaned and inspected. Any internal parts that either do not work, or are worn beyond O.E. replacement spec.s are replaced. Any parts that are still within acceptable tolerances are reused. The item is then reassembled, painted, and tested... If it passes the tests, it goes in a box to be sold... if it fails, they toss it back to figure out why it failed.
Once it is on the stores shelf, it supposedly is a good working part. They offer a 1 year warranty, because in general if they missed something, you'll know the minute you install it.. but they give it a year to allow for the old bushings and stuff to fail if they were within tolerance, but only by a little when they rebuilt it.

A Remanufactured part starts off the same way. A core is disassembled, the non-wear parts cleaned and inspected, and then the part is rebuilt. The difference is though, all the internal parts are tossed... regardless of condition. All the internal parts are brand new. bushings,brushes, holders, windings, nose gears and solenoids.  Then the part is tested, and it goes in a box to be sold. This eliminates the possibility of internal parts being within tolerance, but barely... A good remanufactured part is essentially a brand new part, but the outer casing or nose cone are not brand new... they have been cleaned, bead blasted, painted, and even the mounting flanges remachined if needed.

The most expensive option, the Gear Reduction starter, is primarily intended to solve a specific issue. Overheating of the starter casing caused by the starter being too close to the exhaust system. GM V-8's are prone to this issue, which causes the starter to drag when it gets too hot. There are heat shields available which help... but if headers are installed, the only real solution is going with a gear reduction starter. because of the smaller diameter of the starter motor housing, there is much more clearance between the exhaust and the starter... this greatly reduces the amount of heat the starter motor absorbs, and cures the dragging issue.
Another use is for engines with high compression. because a gear reduction starter generates more torque than the standard direct drive starter, it can turn a high compression engine over at a higher rpm than the original starter... often using less starting amps to do so as well.

Because RV's are generally bad about excessive heat buildup under the engine cover due to poor airflow, and generally tight quarters, they are also prone to having hard start issues when the engine is hot. This makes a Gear Reduction starter a good option if the RV has had such issues in the past. I also highly recommend installing a heat shield as well, to reduce the heat that is transferred to the starter, it will help the starter last longer, as well as help eliminate hard starting problems when the engine is hot. You can buy them at AutoZone under the Mr. gasket brand, or get them thru either Jegs or Summit Racing.

[Elandan2]

Or... You can buy a new starter (Dodge) for $130, install it and have it pack it in three days later and 1000 miles from home.  I bought what was considered the best rebuild available and the rivet that is put in to attach the ground for the field coils to the outer case was not installed. The only way to get it to work was crawl under the mh and jam a screwdriver into the hole where the rivet was supposed to be and have someone crank over the engine.  Needless to say, when we arrived at our destination, I replaced it again.  Of course, the warranty was useless because I didn't have the original box, and I needed the old starter to get my core return on the one I was purchasing.  I did make sure the "new" one had the rivet installed!! Rick   

[pvoth1111]

25 bucks pay china.....125 pay Americans.....maybe W%

[Rickf1985]

Lefty, Are you sure about the gear reduction starters turning the engine faster? They never did when I was building engines. They did have a ton of torque due to the planetary gear drive but they also turned slower due to that. It should not really matter if the ignition is up to snuff,plus they do draw less amps so there is less draw on the battery pulling voltage away from the ignition.

[thisoldhippy]

I put a gear reduction starter on my 440 after putting on 3 rebuilt ones from the parts store. I have headers on mine and had read that the nippon denso was much smaller. It works great seems to turn engine faster. But I think it is more that it turns it so much easier. Also it remedied the heat issues. I got mine on Ebay. Searched for one for a dodge pickup w/360 in it! Just what I did it worked! Cost was like 75-80$

[CCTVED]

I put the Brand new one in this morning all good I purchased a head shield for the solenoid
Thanks for all the help

[Rickf1985]

Old Hippy, Those old Chrysler starters were also gear drive but they were bull gears. They were in a league of there own, ancient, sort of like us. :)rotflmao ANYTHING turned faster than them.

[thisoldhippy]

That was why I liked it I guess! Old and slow! I think I could have driven it home on the starter! :)rotflmao

[Froggy1936]

 i?? The accurate answer (wich has not been mentioned) is $95.00  W%  Frank

[GONMAD]

Greetings All!   I'll 'START' with my personal solution for a top notch RELIABLE starter. MERCRUISER MARINE has been using Gear reduction PERMANENT MAGNET units. They are ultra reliable & not that much more than a 19 lb. stock unit. These newer designs weigh in at 9 lbs. & are far easier to install. You can go one step further & get an aftermarket Hi perf starter with multiple position main assembly where you can move the solenoid & wiring down low to clear the exhaust & negate heat destruction. & ALWAYS use a heat wrap around the whole unit. Summitracing has them for around $29.00. As for the price for the Marine unit, it can be purchased for $129.00 no exchange. If you REALLY want a super starter try an MSD starter but at $349.00 it's pricey but I have been using them on the customs & race cars I build for people. They're water resistant & high torque for ANY engine. I've had 4 stock starters on my rig in 5 years & since doing these mods haven't had any more problems for a while now. ( I probable just jinxed myself ) Anyway just my two cents & I hope this helps someone in a similar situation.   GONMAD

[HamRad Mobile]

Good morning, all; 

     I think I just got my money's worth in just joining this group. 

     While I now have the 1987 Winnebago Elandan up to 50,000 miles, I also recognize that electrical systems can go suddenly, mysteriously, and with no obvious reason why, having worked in electronics for over 50 years.  I want to get and carry a spare alternator and starter in the Elandan, and now I know what kind of starter to get; the gear reduction starter, as recommended, to go along with the Banks PowerPack going into the P37 chassis and the GM 454 ci V8, as soon as the required exhaust pipe extension for my wheelbase length arrives. 

          Thank you, gentlemen; 

          Ralph,  Hamrad Mobile   
          Latte Land, Washington 
         

[M & J]