Best Safest Shock for 75 D19 M300

[MSN Member]

From: Beatty1950
Sent: 10/7/2003 2:04 PM

Found on the Web ... 
Info about the Bilstein Shocks ....  Bilstein sound like the premimum choice with lifetime warrantee ... 

http://www.shox.com/appguide/shoxshop/index.php $289 + $13 shipping 800 683 2890 Front Part Number 1318 Back  Part Number 1319
Question ... Has anyone tried these out ?? 
Are they worth double the cost ??
Thanks for the help
Dave Beatty



From: Derrek
Sent: 10/8/2003 8:30 AM

I recently changed the shocks on my M600 chassis and decided to go with the Monroe and I am pleased with the results. There are only two companies who still make shocks for the M600. Monroe and Bilstien. So I decided to go with the Monroe.

I called Rancho to see if they make a shock for the M600 but they do not. I have used their shocks on my trucks and really like them. They are lifetime guaranteed and are reasonably priced. You may want to contact them to see if they have a shock for the M300 chassis ( I am sure they do). If not, I think the Monroe would be a good choice.



From: Beatty1950
Sent: 10/8/2003 12:40 PM

Thanks for the help.

I decide to spend the extra $ and go with the Bilstein.  With Lifetime warrantee and best quality, I decided worth the extra cost of $150.  Trying my best to push this $2000 Classic upto $5000.  Total for 4 shocks delivered $302 from web supplier:
http://www.shox.com/

Sounds like I should be able to do install myself.   

Dave Beatty



From: Dave-Pam1
Sent: 10/9/2003 11:37 AM

Dave,
With the consistant bouncing your having, you may want to take your rig by a spring shop and have them take a look. Your springs may be flat and worn out. Sometimes they can re-arch them. It shouldn't cost anything for them to look. I talked to a shop in Everett and he said shocks would help on my front end but it wouldn't fix the springs...
David



From: denison
Sent: 10/9/2003 1:31 PM

And you should inspect your springs to see if there is a cracked leaf in any of them. This would show up as a rusty line where there should not be one. I drip 90W oil onto my springs, just a little. It wicks around, keeps them from rusting further, and lowers the wear at the leaf ends. Years ago, after several miles on a horribly washboarded gravel road, I had snaked underneath to see if the shocks were any warmer than the frame. They werent. So I presume they are totally -dead-. But I like the way mine rides, so I am in no hurry to buy new shocks. 



From: Beatty1950
Sent: 10/9/2003 2:28 PM

Thanks for the help.

I will check out the springs and apply some oil...  when I install the new Bilsteins next week.  The Tank cost has now risen from $2000 to $5668 ...  But alot safer vehicle now...  Still looking for deal on Generator and Awning and Roof-top AC.

$5,668   Total
$2,000   Purchase of Used 1975 D19 Winnebago Brave
$250      License (Include Sales Tax)
$140      CD Radio (Car Toys with Remote)
$100      Cobra CB Radio
$10       Mud Flap (Single one cut in half to make 2)
$870     Tires (6 new Yokohama 10ply 8X17.5)
$45       2 Winnebago Dash Switches
$15       Screen Door Slider
$24      8 12 volt plugs
$75      6 Throw Rugs
$15      Fire Extiguisher
$420    Seats (2 new front seats)
$50      Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detector
$35      2 Indoor/Outdoor Thermometers
$240    Alternator/Reg
$80     5 Wheel Covers (17.5")
$45     Microwave (Sears)
$70     Rubber Floor (Diamond Plate puzzle Floor)
$195   2 Shoulder belts
$45    Stove Topper
$300   4 Scissor jacks (BAL 5000# capacity, include install)
$200   Paint (Auto paint plus trim and interior)
$40    Winnebago decals 
$12    Winnebago Book - 1958 thru 1988
$50    50' 30 amp ext cord
$40    Whisker Mud Flap 8' long
$1      Teddy Bear               
$301   4 Bilstein Shocks     


Oh well ... Only $.  Can't take it with you ...

Dave Beatty
beattyd@yahoo.com



From: Beatty1950
Sent: 10/14/2003 12:58 PM

Well ........ The (4) Bilstein Shocks arrived in the mail yesterday.  I lost an email from Boatnut on his advise on steps to do install on my 1975 D19.  Any advise on this install task would be appreciated....   I have a quote for $120 to get install done by a shop but I would like to pay myself instead...   Cheap Cheap Cheap ...

Dave Beatty
beattyd@yahoo.com



From: Beatty1950
Sent: 10/14/2003 1:32 PM

Found some advise on the Web ...  Does this info look correct for those that have do the task

Found on website:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t3255.html

It's pretty straight forward.

Jack up one side of your front tires.

Remove the tire.

Remove the nut on the top of the shock.

Remove the nut on the bottom of the shock.

Pull the bolt out of the bottom of the shock.

Compress the shock by hand upwards until it clears the bottom mount.(should be easy if they are nissan ones).

Once clear of the bottom mount you should be able to pull the shock out of the top mount.

Keep the bolts and nuts for the reinstall.

Here's the harder part.

Compressing the new shock. The Rancho shocks come with a wire that holds them compressed. You can use a coat hanger to do the same, but it's tougher because of the design of the Bilstein. I ended up doing it by hand.

I had success bringing the shock through the space of the a-arm behind the disc brake. Once I got the top shaft of the shock into the the mount I then compressed the shock enough to pull it into place with the bottom mount.

Put the bushings and metal discs for the top mount(I forget what they're called) in the right order and facing direction(it will be on the instructions, or just look at the order they're put on before you remove the original shocks).

Once in place, run the bottom bolt through and tighten the nut.
The top shaft (of Bilsteins) must be held in place with an Allen wrench inserted in the top of the shaft. Use a closed or open wrench to tighten the bolt down. The Bilstein instructions say not to compress the rubber bushings. (I would be curious to hear what others have done. I mentioned this to SLR and they hadn't heard of that).
The rear shocks are easy. You don't need to jack up the truck at all. It might be easier to reach the driver side shock if you remove the spare (mine is already gone).

Remove the top and bottom nuts on the shocks.

Pull the shocks off the mounts.

Put the new shock on the mounts. You'll have to compress them some. Put the metal gasket (rings) back on.

Put the nuts back on and tighten.

You might need some auto grease to lube the bushings to get them on. The Bilsteins are a tight fit.

That's pretty much it. If I forgot something, please add to the instructions.

Once you do it, you'll wonder why you ever paid someone to do it for you.

End of extract from the WEBSITE Mentioned above.



From: denison
Sent: 10/14/2003 1:47 PM

That sounds like what I did on the car. I would only add; start early with soaking the bolts and nuts with penetrating oil. several days, if yours are as rusty as mine. denison



From: Beatty1950
Sent: 10/14/2003 5:57 PM

Great Idea...    I will soak the bolts tonight.  I will check on getting stainless steel bolts/nuts as is my practice on all other bolts replaced so far.

With all the Stainless Steel in my Classic Winnebago, it will easily out last me.

Dave Beatty



From: LJ-TJ
Sent: 10/15/2003 12:48 AM

Beatty1950 we winny owners are frugal,thrifty but we are never cheep.T.J.



Beatty1950 <beattyd@hotmail.com> wrote:
From: Beatty1950

Found some advise on the Web ... Does this info look correct for those that have do the task Found on website:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t3255.html It's pretty straight forward. Jack up one side of your front tires. Remove the tire. Remove the nut on the top of the shock. Remove the nut on the bottom of the shock. Pull the bolt out of the bottom of the shock. Compress the shock by hand upwards until it clears the bottom mount.(should be easy if they are nissan ones). Once clear of the bottom mount you should be able to pull the shock out of the top mount. Keep the bolts and nuts for the reinstall. Here's the harder part. Compressing the new shock. The Rancho shocks come with a wire that holds them compressed. You can use a coat hanger to do the same, but it's tougher because of the design of the Bilstein. I ended up doing it by hand. I had success bringing the shock through the space of the a-arm behind the disc brake. Once I got the top shaft of the shock into the the mount I then compressed the shock enough to pull it into place with the bottom mount. Put the bushings and metal discs for the top mount(I forget what they're called) in the right order and facing direction(it will be on the instructions, or just look at the order they're put on before you remove the original shocks). Once in place, run the bottom bolt through and tighten the nut. The top shaft (of Bilsteins) must be held in place with an Allen wrench inserted in the top of the shaft. Use a closed or open wrench to tighten the bolt down. The Bilstein instructions say not to compress the rubber bushings. (I would be curious to hear what others have done. I mentioned this to SLR and they hadn't heard of that). The rear shocks are easy. You don't need to jack up the truck at all. It might be easier to reach the driver side shock if you remove the spare (mine is already gone). Remove the top and bottom nuts on the shocks. Pull the shocks off the mounts. Put the new shock on the mounts. You'll have to compress them some. Put the metal gasket (rings) back on. Put the nuts back on and tighten. You might need some auto grease to lube the bushings to get them on. The Bilsteins are a tight fit. That's pretty much it. If I forgot something, please add to the instructions. Once you do it, you'll wonder why you ever paid someone to do it for you. End of extract from the WEBSITE Mentioned above. 



From: Beatty1950
Sent: 10/18/2003 1:15 AM

Tonight Bilstein shocks installed by brother-in-law with air gun.  Task much easier than I expected.  Took under 1 hour total.  I did spray bolts as suggested the day before which helped with the dis-assembly.  Rear shocks were original while front were KYB Gas Shocks with worn rubbers bushings. 

Quick trip home (since Brother-in-law noticed fuel pump leaking - another task to tackle tomorrow) so not a real test of new shocks but did notice reduce sway when semi-trucks passed me so I consider Biblstein shocks a success. 

When longer trip I will give more complete post-install report.

Thanks to all for input of my search for better handling.