Parking Brake Seized Up

[Arberg0]

From: cooneytunes  (Original Message) Sent: 9/6/2004 8:42 PM

While I was working under the dash today, I accidently moved the parking break lever. Well the parking brake works good. But now it won't come loose, 1976 D29 M500 chassis. Sprayed cable w/WD40, but you can see it is still engaged.  Found cable (comming through floor underneath) but I can't see it on the rear wheels, guess it must go to the tranny. Any body know how to get it unstuck?  Thanks, Timmy

   

From: denison Sent: 9/6/2004 9:15 PM
There are two ways, one of which is to slice the cable with a cutting torch just where it enters the diagonal guide that leads into the front of that brake assembly on the end of the tranny. I say this first because it is likely you will need a new cable anyway, the old one being stuck from age, disuse, and being baked by the heat of the exhaust manifold.
The other way is to remove the access plate from the forward side of that brake assembly. This is on the lower part of the brake backing plate, facing the transmission tail housing. Inside you will see the end of the cable, and it will be holding the actuator arm way over toward the drivers side of the opening. I use a large screwdriver and a heavy framing hammer, and pound the actuator back to its rest position, on the passenger side of the opening.
If you didn't cut the cable, then you have to decide if you want to try to soak the cable in solvent and get it to work again, or just buy a new one. In either case it means removing the cable from the vehicle. I soaked mine in solvent for days, and kept pulling it up and back, up and back, with a jig I set up to do so - but it never freed up. The inner cable just finally tore in half. The new handbrake cable cost about $70 bucks, 4 or 5 years ago.
If you are lucky, the shoes inside that brake assembly wont be totally burnt out. In order to clean the shoes or reline them, and get the grease and crud out from inside the drum, and possibly free up the star wheel used for adjusting that brake, you have to drop the driveshaft so you can remove the little drum. This is a lot of work, but none of it is high precision. The Dodge motorhome chassis were excellent designs, but that parking brake assembly is NOT one of the things I like about them. 
   

From: cooneytunes Sent: 9/7/2004 1:05 AM

Looks like a big pain in the ol' waazoo, was reading it in the service manual after I posted, would be easier if I had a sky hook to hang my rig from......Thanks Denison........will let everybody know which way I deceide to go. " To Cut or Not to Cut? That is the question! " 

Timmy



From: brakeparts Sent: 9/7/2004 10:40 AM
Before you cut anything up, be sure you know for certain where that replecement part is coming from, as I know there is no aftermarket and I would doubt Chryslers continued involvement.

Don't destroy anything if you do not know where to buy the replacements. I do not offer any parking brake parts.

Geoff
Alretta Truck Parts Inc.


   

From: Sea Hag Sent: 9/7/2004 10:44 AM
Tim , The parking brake on my 76 M400 goes to the rear brakes .  If yours goes there you will see the main single cable hook to a adaptor that goes to two seperate cables leading to each wheel . this is on the left inside frame rail a couple of feet foward from the rear end . some of the cable is exposed there and can be lubed . you can tap the adaptor where the cables merge twards the rear and work them back and forth .You can also dissasemle the main cable from the individual wheel cables there also .I got mine working well and know use it all the time to keep it working , comes in hany when driving up on leveling blocks as it moves a little after putting it in park with out it . I prefer the rear brake type as it can stop the vehicle using both rear drums in the unlikely case you loose both front and rear brakes . If your brake is the other type , the drive shaft type it will be quite apparent by the presence of a brake drum assembly at the rear of the trans . Sea Hag 


 

From: DaveVa78Chieftain Sent: 9/7/2004 10:28 PM
Not sure about 76, but the 75 chassis book indicates the M500 had the parking brake mounted on the rear of the transmission.  It also says there is a access plate (transmission side) cover over the parking brake adjustment.  There is also cable adjusting nut at the cable end at the brake assembly.  I would try to loosen up brake before ever considering cutting the cable.

Dave




From: cooneytunes Sent: 9/7/2004 11:22 PM
Well just call me the Lucky Dog.......I got a lucky dog pass and the cable is freed up, not completly........WD40 a miracle drug, if only Rogains worked as well...I really didn't want to cut it.......Spayed w/ WD40 last night, sprayed again late today, move it from underneath about a !/4 of an inch, ran some 3 in 1 oil down the cable from the hand lever, will let it sit over night, and do t all over agin tomorrow. It looks like the return spring is just a little gunked up and I think some break cleaner, and some more WD after that, it will moveOnce it free I set adjustment. Looking at the cable, you could probably make a cable, or have one made, not too much differnt from a motorcycle brake cable, just longer, and some what heavier. Thanks for all the info and advise.
The Lucky Dog......Timmy

 
 

From: denison Sent: 9/8/2004 7:41 AM
Goeff of Alretta is right; always have a replacement before you destroy or discard the old part. At least the old part can be a pattern for making a replacement.
Im glad you were able to get your cable freed up. Lube it well! And look closely to see if that cable runs near the exhaust manifold. If it gets closer than 8 inches and is within sight of the manifold I would want a heat shield in between.
My winnebago things-to-do list includes removing the hanbrake cable, shifter cable and speedo cable about each 6 years, just to lubricate them. 



From:Liv42dayOK Sent: 9/8/2004 9:00 AM
Dave's list of things to do also includes removing and lubricating the hand crank window mechanisms on his cars every 3 years... the man is insane!  BUT... he's got the best operating OEM equipment so... he's really insane as a fox.
- Sob




From: Phåråoh Sent: 1/20/2006 2:47 PM
From: cooneytunes Sent: 9/8/2004 11:33 PM
Well I guess I am a Lucky dog, Parking break works like new......I found out today that most motercycle shops that do custom work on Choppers (they need a longer front break cable than most manufactures make) will make any cable, at a cost about $40 to $60. But you need is old cable to match ball ends,  lengh guage of wire and ajusting screw size.
Take NOTE: this might add to Dave's insanity.....He may never have to lube a cable again...
A good way to Lube any cable, remove cable, get cable as clean and as straight as possible, get a small ziplock baggie, put 2 oz or so of 30W motor oil in baggie, put end of cable( and tip of cable housing) in baggie, rap tie baggie with bread tie or small wire very tight around cable housing, hang cable by baggie on a small nail (put nail right through baggie above oil and you can tie wire that's rapped around baggie for support if cable is heavy for baggie) and presto, you have a cable I. V. Leave hanging overnight, or until all the oil is out of the bag, oil will run down inside of housing and your cable will be better than new, you can do this to a new cable too, and life expectancy of  new cable will be greater than yours. Make sure you put something under it to catch the excess oil that comes out the bottom.........Unless you like to clean up oil spills.......Thanks again all.....Timmy



From: denison Sent: 9/9/2004 5:24 AM
Doesnt everybody lube their window mechanisms??