How much Excercise does a Motorhome need at the very least

[stopngo]

What are your thoughts Y'all

Is it enough to fire it up once every 2 months and move it up and down the driveway as far as Transmission seals go or does it need to get out on the road for a full temperature cycle? How about the engine?? Am I guessing right that any startup short of full operating temp is worse than no start up at all??

Hm? Hm?

[legomybago]

The worst thing we can do is let ANY motorized vehicle sit. They need to be driven. Even if its only once a month. Use it as much as you can. Take it around the block a couple times. This is what an rv looks like it you only start it and move it up and down the driveway once every two months....lol

[lemortede]

This is a good question.
I was planning to start my generator and Chassis about every 2 weeks over the winter.
I would love to hear what others think

[TerryH]

Minimally - take it out and let the tranny run thru the gears. Use the brakes. Lots of rubber/neoprene parts, pumps etc. that, if allowed to dry out become costly repairs. Also, starting up and running for a while in Park really doesn't help your tranny fluid circulation AFAIK.

[stopngo]

Obviously being a Full Time RV r is the ultimate solution. After my latest water pump and head gasket job I am hoping that taking out a 1 day operating permit every 2 months and give it a short highway run is better than nothing and more economically sensible than insuring it for a whole year.

[DRMousseau]

I jus rebuilt a Holley 4-barrel today due to neglect. With only 47000mi, the 1987 Cruise Air II has obviously spent too much time jus standing around. For many, the cost of replacement could be anywhere from $300 upwards.

The stale gas trapped inside reeked badly. The accelerator pump diaphragm had dried, cracked, became porous and leaked so badly I'm surprised it didn't result in an engine fire,... and the resultant costs, that could've been devastating!!!

People sorta giggle when I run the car or household AC in the middle of winter, or fire up the snow-blower thru the summer months. But I've never needed that last minute rush to busy repair shops that others often find necessary.

I hate the preparations of long term storage,... and little to nothing can be done to prevent the damage of components that jus MUST be exercised on somewhat regular basis. A short off-season run can do much to prevent the premature failure of things we jus don't think about much,.... tires, belts, pumps, compressors, generators and motors, brakes, fuel systems and more. Such runs can often detect soon needed repairs,... low tire air pressure, fluid levels, bearing squeaks, brake squeal, belts slipping, stiff parts in need of lube, and other things that will make the next season more trouble free. I tell the kids and young folks, "Check it out AT LEAST, once a month!" And that's jus for the vehicles and things they use daily!!!! LoL!!!!

[stopngo]

   Time sure does fly when things sit. I'm going to have special Calendar for at least 15 things that need to be fired up periodically.

[JerryP]

I run errands in mine, pretty much every week, or so.
I am no expert, and just enjoy driving it around with the dogs, and having a fridge, and bathroom in my vehicle.
Dogs lounge about on the couch, and bed
Usually 20-30 miles.
That said, my training business is at home, and I do no drive much to begin with, so, gas is a small expense to me, as I have 16 year old truck with 87k.

[JerryP]

I would like to add that where i used to work, we had a big caterpillar generator for backup power, in the jail building, it exercised weekly for 30 minutes, and we rarely had trouble with it, when I was there, and it was always ready to go, with a full tank of fuel, for the inevitable power outrage, 2 years after I retired, I heard they had a lot of maintenance  trouble with it, including running out of fuel, and other preventable issues.
I look at the RV as a second home, and emergency shelter, so it is nice to have it up, and running incase you need it.
A few years ago we had a 10 day power outage due to weather.
You do not have to be a "prepper" be a little bit prepared for the inevitable emergency.
If you are a little bit ready, it becomes an adventure, not an emergency

[stopngo]

I would like to add that where i used to work, we had a big caterpillar generator for backup power, in the jail building, it exercised weekly for 30 minutes, and we rarely had trouble with it, when I was there, and it was always ready to go, with a full tank of fuel, for the inevitable power outrage, 2 years after I retired, I heard they had a lot of maintenance  trouble with it, including running out of fuel, and other preventable issues.
I look at the RV as a second home, and emergency shelter, so it is nice to have it up, and running incase you need it.
A few years ago we had a 10 day power outage due to weather.
You do not have to be a "prepper" be a little bit prepared for the inevitable emergency.
If you are a little bit ready, it becomes an adventure, not an emergency

I like your line of thinking   Have entertained that scenario many times lately.

[stopngo]

Below is a Quote from the P30 Motorhome Chassis Service Manual as to how to prepare a Unit for Storage.
Interestingly it makes no mention of seals drying out.

" Prior to storage, fill tank/tanks, add fuel stabilizer,
run engine and generator to insure stabilized fuel is
circulated throughout the complete fuel system.
" Keep chassis windows closed. Make sure all covers
are in place.
" Avoid trees in parking area to eliminate potential damage
from tree sap or bird droppings . Remove high weed
growth which affects paint by attracting insects or causing
stains .
" Rinse, wash and wipe horizontal surfaces of motor
home at least once per week when stored outside to
remove accumulations which settle on flat surfaces .
" Leave parking brake in "OFF" position .
" Unit should be parked on level surface or with front of
chassis higher than rear if level surfaces are not available
._ This is to prevent gasoline draining into engine
over a long period causing possible damage to engine
by "hydrostatic lock" when started .
" Check engine coolant and, if necessary, increase
antifreeze.
PREPARING THE MOTOR HOME
FOR STORAGE
Check battery/batteries and inspect test hydrometer on
Delco Freedom or maintenance-free batteries and
charge if green dot is not visible to avoid freezing and
deterioration . Both battery cables should be disconnected
at the battery/batteries to prevent gradual discharge,
and the possibility of fire due to short circuits.
On conventional batteries, check electrolyte specific
gravity and charge if below 1 .255. (See Battery Maintenance
During Vehicle Storage section of this
Appendix.)
Check and secure all caps to prevent water, snow and
dirt from entering engine.
Check and keep tires inflated to recommended tire
pressure.
Remove windshield wiper arms and blades and store
in vehicle .
Start and run engine until completely warm . Drain engine
oil and replace filter element, refill with fresh oil . If
vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, the unit should
be operated during this final engine warm-up to lubricate
compressor seal .
APPENDIX B
Gasoline Engines Only - After the oil has been replaced,
remove air cleaner and pour 1/2 to 1 pint of 10W
or lighter oil into carburetor air intake with engine running .
Pour slowly at first, then rapidly using last quarter to stall
engine. Replace air cleaner .
REACTIVATING VEHICLE AFTER
EXTENDED STORAGE
" Check oil and fluid levels and replenish as necessary
in the following components: engine, radiator, crankcase,
transmission and differential. Check gasoline
supply. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning,
refer to the procedure which follows below.
" Check under hood and under vehicle for nesting creatures
and evidence of leakage of oils or fluids or physical
damage.
" Inflate tires to recommended pressure.
Clean battery end of cables and install fully charged
battery .
Lubricate chassis suspension and steering
components.
" Check brake operation and fluid level . Bleed and adjust
brakes if necessary .
Remove spark plugs and clean and gap (gasoline
engines) .
" Check and clean carburetor air filter assembly.
IF VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH AIR
CONDITIONING
" Disconnect the compressor clutch wires before attempting
to start vehicle .
" Check to see if compressor hub and clutch driver can
be turned by hand. If not, the unit should be broken
loose by manually turning the shaft with a wrench on
the shaft lockout on the clutch driver plate. A few "rocking"
turns should be sufficient so that the shaft can be
turned by hand.
*Reconnect coil wires and check belt tension . Run
engine with air conditioning on for a minute or two to
reseal system .
Check the refrigerant . This can be done by checking
for air bubbles in the sight glass on the top of the receiver-
dehydrator (on vehicles so equipped) ."

[DRMousseau]

Storage recommendations and guides are jus that,... a recommendation and guide.

I noticed vehicle and house batteries are mentioned, but with little detail. Standard wet-cells will self-discharge about 10-15% a month when on a shelf, more in hot summer temps. And more if they are left connected in a vehicle or if the surface is dirty and damp. A battery at 40% charge will begin to freeze at about 20degrees. Your batteries can easily be damaged in near zero temps of harsh northern climes if not cared for during a long winter storage.

We used to worry about cooling systems before modern coolants became the norm. Been a long time since I've seen freeze plugs popped and radiators damaged,... common issues in the '60's and 70's.

Some components, seen and unseen, ARE gonna suffer unpreventable damage over time jus due to the stresses of extreme temps, both hot and cold. Who hasn't seen a flat tire after a long storage period???

Stored or used daily,... a thorough monthly check does much to keep costs and losses to a minimum.

[Rickf1985]

Most seals are not going to dry out in a season. Over the winter if you have put fuel stabilizer ( I use marine grade in mine ) in the tank and have changed the oil and made sure you ran the engine and generator long enough for the stabilized fuel to get to them then you are good for the winter. Keep the batteries on a maintenance charger and they will be fine. When adding the stabilizer to the fuel it is best to do it at the same time that you fill the tank, that way it is mixed in and the trip home from the station will further mix it and get it into the carb. Then you just need to run the generator for a half hour or so to be sure it is there also. If you want to go all out then get some fogging oil for boats and follow the directions for that for the engine, about the only thing you will gain is oily exhaust and protection in the cylinders. CAUTION! DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU HAVE CATALYTIC CONVERTERS!!! It will clog the converters.

[stopngo]

Good info Y'all...... always good to hear different experiences