Edelbrock #1406 carb on my 440-3. Jets/springs??

phil_brave · July 04, 2016, 02:31 PM

Hi everyone from England!
After lots of reading previous posts and other forums, I have bought a new Edelbrock 600cfm #1406 carb to go on my Braves 440-3. After bolting on the carb she fired right up which was great - as the Holley 600cfm it had on it before would idle but not rev, and i couldn't be bothered to faff with it, as it was a ball of leaking fuel and oil!
My question is, can anybody recommend which jets/springs/rods etc I should be using?
I don't want to try tune the carb if the hardware is wrong. I suspect its running lean at the mo.
I've seen a few posts regarding this but only on bigger carbs, 650 - 750cfm etc.
Any help would be great.
Phil.

Rickf1985 · July 04, 2016, 02:41 PM

Phil, This is what you need to get.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1487

This kit will have everything you need to dial in the carb for whatever type of driving you do. It also has a handy chart so you can keep track of all changes you do or want to do. It is all right there in front of you. This carburetor is one of the best out there as far as adjustability as far as I am concerned. I ran Holley's for years when I was racing, that was before Edelbrock bought out the Carter AFB and turned it into a powerhouse carb. The Holley is great when it is dialed in but getting to that point can be a nightmare. I have jet boards with over a hundred sets of jets!! With a Holley you can just about forget about midrange adjustment, not with the Edelbrock. Due to the rod and jet design you can change the rods in a minute without removing anything more than a cap on the carb. Not even remove, just slide off to the side.

phil_brave · July 04, 2016, 03:10 PM

Thanks for the info, I was looking at the #1487 kit earlier today which is available in the UK (Bonus!) I bought the carb new so it came with the booklet/chart about choosing which "point" on the chart to go with, which is great. Problem I've got is don't really know where to start with a 5 tonne beast its got to haul around. I'm after fuel economy over anything else, as i'm sure you know gas is stupidly priced over here!!
That other British guy has done some serious work to his RV!!! I've sent him a message.
Thanks.

Rickf1985 · July 04, 2016, 06:00 PM

You always start at the baseline centerpoint and work from there. Unfortunately it is going to take a bit of gas to get the carb dialed in but once it is done then it is done. The trick to this is first, leave the dogbox off, you are going to be needing to pull plugs and get to the carb regularly. Unless it comes off quickly. The next thing to remember is you will be reading the spark plugs to see exactly how the engine is running at that given moment so what you will need to do is be on a road where you can cruise at the speed you want to check it at and be able to shut the engine off at that speed and coast to a stop on the shoulder and pull a plug to read it. This sounds extreme but if you let off the gas and coast to the side of the road or pull off somewhere you have completely changed the read on the plugs. The main one you are interested in right off the bat is steady cruise at your regular speed. This will set your main jet and needle to begin with. Being a 600 CFM carb on a 440 you are probably going to have to step up a jet size or two but this is really a good thing since the smaller venturi size will give excellent atomization and hence good mileage over a wide power band. Once you get that set you will set the midrange tip in setting which is a spring choice and easily done from the top. Last but not least is the secondary jets and this is the one that hurts the pocketbook since you have to go wide open throttle repeatedly to get the read on the plugs for the jets. And you have to be prepared to coast to a stop as described before right after a WOT blast. The charts will actually get you real close based on the main jet setting you come up with in the beginning. You just do not want to be too lean because on a long pull up a mountain that could cost you a piston........... or two.......or three.

phil_brave · July 06, 2016, 05:06 AM

Great, thanks for the info.
I've ordered the 1407 kit from your side of the pond - it was cheaper than buying one already stocked in the UK (?)
Il let you know how I get on.

Rickf1985 · July 06, 2016, 10:14 AM

Wow, that is hard to believe. Do you have the carburetor on there yet?
Never mind, I went back to the first post and I see you said it fired right up so it is on there. As long as it is running good then you are probably alright driving it but pull a couple plugs just to be sure you are not running too lean. That would be hard on the engine. If the plugs look good you may not need to change much other than maybe the secondary jets.

budder · July 19, 2016, 12:41 AM

Good post there. I was going to ask the same question
Would it be a good idea to get a fuel regulator as to high a pressure can flood the carb.

Rickf1985 · July 19, 2016, 08:13 AM

If your pressure is over 7 lbs. then it would be a good idea. The problem is that if the pressure differential is only a couple pounds then regulators do not work all that well and you really should put and electric pump on to boost the pressure to about 15 lbs. and then regulate it back down to 5 lbs.. I usually tell people to call Edelbrock if they think they are on the borderline and ask them for their advice since they are the ones making the carburetors. I have never really had pressure issues with Edelbrocks as much as I have with Holleys. Holleys can be very sensitive to higher pressures.

budder · July 19, 2016, 08:40 AM

Mines running the original cam operated fuel pump.
What sort of psi would i get of that?

Rickf1985 · July 19, 2016, 01:15 PM

Should be around 5 lbs.. Volume is more important than pressure, you need to be able to maintain the pressure at a volume that can keep up with the needs of the engine.