Electric Fuel tank selector valve doesn't work

[class87]

From: cooneytunes  (Original Message)
Sent: 9/10/2005 4:58 PM

I just replaced my fuel Tank Selector Valve (electric) with a new one, it is the exact same valve that was removed... also have new rocker switch. I've got power to the switch, and power to the valve, valve will not open with power to it. No power to it,  should be on main tank, that tube is open and will take gas..... power to it (valve energied) should change to other feed tub........It does not.   Any guesses of what could be wrong....maybe the old valve was still good and there is another problem???....this one is doing the same thing the old one was doing...The old one worked until the rocker swich went bad....replaced rocker switch and old valve would not work with power to it...though maybe ball or device inside which closes the tube inside was rusted, so just replaced the valve. New valve is doing the same thing as the old one. Got me stumped....unless the new valve is bad too. Could it be under powered? Not enough juice getting to it? Doesn't pull any DC amps on the meter, but shows .19 volts going to it on a multimeter, and still when energied the valve won't close the one side and open the other. Any suggestions on what to try next?

Thanks, Timmy



From: 68 Bego
Sent: 9/10/2005 6:39 PM

maybe the rocker isn't bad either sounds like the power doesn't make it from the rocker switch to the valve try checking the output from the switch if that is good check the contuity of the wire from the switch to the valve. or check that the ground is good enough to the valve.



From: daved27c
Sent: 9/10/2005 7:35 PM

Tim;

I would check to make sure that the valve is properly grounded to the frame. I think that if there is no ground, then you would have power at the contact but the valve wouldn't work. No ground would also explain not using any voltage.

Dave



From: OldEdBrady
Sent: 9/10/2005 8:09 PM

You've probably thought of both of these, but, just in case...

Bad wire?  Bad connection?
   


From: cooneytunes
Sent: 9/11/2005 12:20 AM

Thanks .....the whole thing started when my original rocker switch broke (in pieces)  old valve worked until then, replaced the switch and old valve would not work...I assumed valve to be bad....so I replaced the valve with the same results.....NADA.........I think Dave may have hit it...It's the only thing I could think of too..... I have power at the switch, rocker switch works (it is a SPST switch with an LED which lights up in the on possition), have power at the bare wire before it's connected to valve, it reads .53 volts. when I connect the wire to the valve, the valve terminal only shows .19 volts...The valve itslf bolts to the a steel plate which comes off the frame, but it is rusty, clened it, but possibly not good enough.....(You can't see the top of the plate and it's not removable.... there is another non-removalbe steel heat sheild below the mounting plate and the whole thing is in a bad blind area to work in).... I'm going to try and run a seperate ground wire from a good spot on the frame to one of the valve bolts and see if that cures the problem.....Will let you know if it's a fix....

Thanks, Timmy



From: DaveVa78Chieftain
Sent: 9/12/2005 1:30 PM

Finding a good wiring diagram of this circuit maybe a challenge, at least for a later model Winnie.  The switch feed a relay up under the dash which controlled both the fuel gauge and the tank switch.  The relay itself could be the problem.  Not sure which one it is but on later models, there are several relays mounted to the underside of the dashboard (the flat part where you set your coffee cup).  Supply voltages of .53VDC are far to small.  That level tells me that your not really seeing a control voltage.  These are 12VDC devices and the readings should be 10VDC or above.

Good luck - Dave



From: cooneytunes
Sent: 9/12/2005 9:23 PM

The original rocker was wired with one Black wire to one pole, (on the main tank side of switch)  the other pole had two wires (both  green) wired into one blade connection to the other pole on the AUX. side.....did not change anything....just put in the new switch....

...I'll assume that's the hot or power wire. (black)...going to the one pole on the main tank side and the other pole has a double wire ( both green with one connection blade) going into the other pole..the single wire at the valve is green..The new switch SPST rocker (real cheep-oo) with a red LED on one side..... bought at Auto-Zone... has three poles one center and one on each side....If I move the power wire to the center pole the LED does not work, and I get no power at all th the valve......all I did was plug what I'm assumming to be the power wire (single black one) into one side and the double into the other (the LED side)...the LED works like this, but sounds like you explained ...  like it could be the problem....guess I'll have to see if I can find the right type of switch.....I saw an original one on eBay awhile ago, I think Winnebago Parts carries the correct one...or maybe RV Surplus in Elkart, IN

Still tryin' Timmy



From: cooneytunes
Sent: 9/12/2005 10:35 PM

I think I may have solved the problem.....new rocker switch..... center pole is the main....had the power wire into one of the side poles which is a lead pole... that was the cause of the voltage drop....main is the center and two other poles is to switch for two things.......now I have 11.53 volts at the valve....now.....again...Thanks for all the help....you solved it TOM........I owe ya one....
TwoTankTimmy
 


From: Im-still-Lefty
Sent: 9/14/2005 3:00 AM

Timmy, Go to NAPA, Ask to look at their fuel parts picture id book. Look in the index forp7 "Fuel tank Selector Switch", It is a DP-DT switch with the correct 6 connections. Lefty



From: cooneytunes
Sent: 9/14/2005 10:40 PM

Thanks Lefty but getting a DPDT switch would mean rewiring it.....The switch I got works now....Winnebago wired the original hot and two wires to one supply on the on position pole..one wire is for the selctor valve and the other is for the fuel gauge....you only need on and off (that's the way the original factory rocker was) unless you want to rewire everything.....and I don't.....The selector valve is opening now... when valve is charged it opens the aux tank line....One question though......shouldn't it close one side when the other side of the valve opens?  I thought it would, but it doesn't. When you put power to the valve both sides remain open, when you turn power off only one side is open....seems like if it does that, you would not get suction from the AUX tank if your main tank went empty, with both sides open....I might be wrong but, then one side would be sucking air......wouldn't it? Anybody know for sure? I'm having a minor problem with that now too, can't get the pump ( I have and elcetric pump ) I can't get the pump to prime..probably is air locked...but that's a different discussion....Yes there is gas in the tank and no leaks on any lines....and the pump works....

Thanks,

Timmy
 


From: ClydesdaleKevin
Sent: 9/15/2005 12:05 AM

Sorry bro...can't help you.

My selection valve is a manual valve at my left foot, near the high beam indicator.  My fuel guage only goes to my auxilary tank...the main tank is selected manually.  When the engine starts to sputter (guage still reads full), I move the lever (old Harley style) to the reserve tank...THEN the guage comes into play.

Kev



From: K0lde1</NOBR>
9/15/2005 10:45 AM

Kev said:

*My selection valve is a manual valve ...
*My fuel gauge only goes to my auxiliary tank...the main tank is selected manually.

FWIW I've a similar (at least) manual tank selector but is should be very easy to have your gauge work for both tanks, assuming you have a
sender on the main tank i have one (Factory) gauge and it has an aftermakret double trow (2-way) switch. one side of the switch has a wire going to the main tank, one side has a wire going to the aux, easy as that. tap teh switch and i can check the fuel levels in either tank .

i thought the manual switch would bother me and had planned to convert to an electrical one, but it doesn't bother me too much
(just in a bad location if i have/want to switch tanks while driving)



From: cooneytunes
Sent: 9/15/2005 8:16 PM

To answer my own question ...Yes when one side of the valve opens the other side closes....old selector valve must have went bad.....replaced with new one and works like a charm....now if I can only get the air out of the lines so the fuel pump will pump gas....

Timmy



From: cooneytunes
Sent: 9/18/2005 8:03 PM

For those of you who have been following the saga of the fuel selector valve, and all those who helped with sugguestions let me first say, Thank You......Problem solved...
and for those of you who need to replace a bad one or, want to switch from the hand valve to an electric one.....CarQuest carries the exact part.....part # FU 1   Listed as a fuel Selector Valve.....

Thanks again to all............ End of this problem.....Now on to Other ones!!!!
TwoTankTimmy



From: ClydesdaleKevin
Sent: 9/24/2005 6:59 PM

No...there isn't a sender on my main fuel tank...only the auxilary.  The tanks were pulled in '89, and sealed...I only know/assume this because they are both marked in white marker with "Good, '89", and I have absolutely no sediment in my fuel filters.  I have one at each tank, and one at the carburator, and they are crystal clear (all three are transparent)...I haven't had to change them yet! 

It WOULD be nice to have an electrical changing switch, since my manual valve is very hard to reach...If I didn't have such long arms, I'd have to stop when the engine sputtered!

But as far as adding a sender to the primary tank?  Too much work...the bolts are all rusted, would probably break, and if it ain't broke.........

Kev