New Owner 1989 Winnebago Warrior Class A 22ft

DeDONRAGE · September 24, 2019, 05:34 PM

I first wanted to say Thank You for letting me in. I am a happy new owner of a 1989 Winnebago Warrior. Fell in love with it already. But Im running into an issue with the Engine Battery. When it sits for a few days 4-5 days it will not start. Since I just bought it I assumed the batter probably just needed to be replaced. Put new battery in and it fired right up. Used it for a trip (3 Days) and drove it back home. Now its been sitting since Friday. This afternoon I hopped in it and it will not start. Obvious first ideas is that something, no telling what, is draining the battery.

Is this a common problem? Has anyone had similar issue?

TIA

wae · September 25, 2019, 09:30 AM

Good news is that you're on the right track!

Bad news is that these can sometimes be a real mother to track down.

First question: How are the house batteries? Is it possible that the two systems are connected and in an effort to balance themselves out the chassis battery is draining to the level of the house? Maybe completely disconnect the house batteries to see if that has any effect.

Next, I'd look around to see if there is anything hooked in to the chassis electrical system right off the battery. You "should" go from the battery to the isolater (if equipped), and then from there to the starter, the alternator, and the fuse box. Anything extra in the path should be checked to see if that's the draw.

If that path is clear, then your problem is around the starter, alternator, or something that runs through the fuse box. I like to test the fuse box first.

The test that you'll want to do is to see if, when the key is in the "off" position, there's anything drawing power on a given circuit and that would be by using the amp readout on your multimeter. For the fuse box, start at the top and take out a fuse. Put one probe in each of the sides where the blades were, making sure that you're getting good metal-to-metal contact. Check your meter. It should read zero or very close to it. You might get a few milliamps here or there and that's fine, but anything drawing .5 amp or more is something I'd be looking at.

Rickf1985 · September 25, 2019, 10:06 AM

In addition to what was just said I would take off the ground cable and the just tap the cable to the battery post and see if there is a spark. There probably will be since you already know there is a drain but how hot is the spark? Is it an audible zap or is it a barely visible tiny arc? This will give you an instant idea of how much of a draw you have. If you had the big zap be careful with using the amp setting on your volt meter since that is only good for 10 amps on most any meter and a hot arc could be pushing that. At worst it will blow the fuse in the meter and you will have to replace that. But then check between the cable and the negative post with the meter and see how many amps you are actually drawing. Then look at the modifications that were made and see if any of them come from the chassis battery. If they do disconnect one at a time checking the draw each time. Hopefully you will find it is one of them. I would suggest it might be a DC powered refrigerator but they draw a LOT of amperage and that would kill a battery in hours, not days. They are only supposed to be run on DC while you are driving.

Froggy1936 · September 25, 2019, 01:11 PM

Check ing for a short , Easier with a test light than a meter, Remove the GRD. cable from the battery and put the test light between the cable and the NEG terminal ( using a jumper wire on the tester probe makes hook up easier) The light will light if there is any draw. Start looking pulling fuses etc till the light goes out . Then the last thing you did is where the problem lies , The only thing that can throw a monkey wrench is if there is more than one draw. Frank

Rickf1985 · September 25, 2019, 02:50 PM

Frank, You have to make sure it is an old school test light that uses a filament type bulb. If it is an LED test light then anything inside like the digital clock will light up the test light. With a filament light it takes enough power to light the lamp in the test light that digital stuff will not register.

Froggy1936 · September 25, 2019, 07:53 PM

Ha ha i?? The world has passed me by,

I have never seen a 12V LED test light, D:oH! I still use two of the old school lights !

Frank

c farmer · September 25, 2019, 08:32 PM

The old school test light works but a voltmeter will tell you excatly what amps its drawing.

DeDONRAGE · September 25, 2019, 10:37 PM

I appreciate all the ideas. Ideas of where to start. Since I was stranded now Im back at work for a few days. Something I noticed. When I changed out the battery I noticed the metal bar that holds the battery down it goes across the battery was corroded. Didn't put a lot of thought into it since it looked like the old battery had been there for several years. But when it didn't start again after the 4 days of having the new battery installed there was a lot more white corrosion powder on the bar that crossed over the battery. Could this cause a drain? Its metal laying on top of the plastic battery. It doesn't make any contact. But what would cause the corrosion? Unless I have a short close to the battery?

Rickf1985 · September 26, 2019, 09:43 AM

The corrosion is caused by acid on the hold down probably from the old battery. get some baking soda and mix it up in water pretty strong on the baking soda, almost like a paste. It is totally harmless to you so do not worry about getting it on you. It will neutralize the acid on the hold down and also on the terminals and cables. You will see if foam up wherever it comes in contact with acid. If the battery has vented caps on it try to keep the solution away from the caps. I have not seen vented caps in many, many years though. Just use common sense, the baking soda neutralizes acid so you do not want to get it inside the battery. You do want to get it anywhere the old battery has spilled acid so it might be good to take out the new battery and clean the whole area with the baking soda solution, flush with water and when dry paint it all.

Like I said before, Take the ground cable off and gently tap it on the ground post of the battery looking for a spark. If there is no spark at all then there is not enough draw to kill the battery that quickly. On an older battery that has a lot of dirt and crap on top of it you can get discharge from one terminal across through the dirt to the other terminal and that will discharge a battery so it pays to keep your batteries fairly clean.

DeDONRAGE · September 26, 2019, 11:44 PM

Thank You again. I will be off the next four days. I hope to get in and start chasing down the problem. Ill post progress.

DeDONRAGE · September 27, 2019, 03:49 PM

Update** Its not a battery drain. Though that was my first thought Had battery tested. Its good to go and still has 84% charge. The reason my initial go to was battery drain was because when I turn key to start dash lights up When I bump starter I lose all power. So it appeared that tye battery was drained. Now sounds like I need new starter or I have an ignition issue.

DeDONRAGE · September 27, 2019, 07:42 PM

I am 99% sure I fixed it Without chasing wires Installed the battery and the positive terminal screw was loose. Held it in an angle and it fired right over Several times Went to auto zone bought new terminal screw and niw its tight Sever times fires right over Was just loose terminal screw Lets see if its fixed

Rickf1985 · September 27, 2019, 08:31 PM

That will do it.

tmsnyder · September 30, 2019, 09:05 PM

My good friend has a saying, 'if something isn't working, take it apart, clean it, and put it back together. ' That usually fixes most all problems with an RV.

He also says 'if you need to break a law, only break one law at a time'. That's good advice to live by.