Sources for Steering Stabilizers

[class87]

From: Beatty1950 (Original Message)
Sent: 10/1/2004 1:28 AM

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/p-5984/c-10107

Got this link from Michael Johansen (fellow met at the Great NWCWJ).  Sounds like a good investment for MISS TANK.  Order placed tonight.  I will let CW team know results when installed.

Dave Beatty
 


From: Liv42dayOK
Sent: 10/1/2004 9:47 AM

Nice and cheap!  I was thinking about this a while back to reduce the looseness of the front end until Dave Denison showed me the steering box adjustment.  Should be a nice augmentation now.  I'll be ordering mine too! - Sob



From: Liv42dayOK
Sent: 10/1/2004 9:50 AM

Don't forget the boot!  Also, how do I know which to order?  M400 or the M300/350?  Mine is a M40 which is identical to my RM 350?  Straight axle?  It's straight in the center, then turns up at the ends.  Could you clear the fog? - Sob



From: Beatty1950
Sent: 10/1/2004 7:27 PM

Not sure about which to order for your larger Classic.  May need to send email to supplier.  I am lucky to have the D19 with M300 frame. 

I will need to review the front end advise from Dave Denison also.  Always chasing the goal for improved ride. 

Dave



From: Beatty1950
Sent: 10/1/2004 7:28 PM

YEP I ordered the boot also.  $3.99 cheap option.

Dave



From: olivereaman
Sent: 1/14/2005 12:43 PM

Hi,

    I was wondering about that steering box adjustment.......After you adjusted it, did you have any binding when you turned it out to the maximum? I asked a guy to do my truck once and he refused to it because he said it would bind when it got to the place where there wasn't a lot of wear.

                  John



From: olivereaman
Sent: 1/14/2005 12:45 PM

Sorry, the above message was for Liv42dayOK.

John



From: Liv42dayOK
Sent: 1/14/2005 3:00 PM

There shouldn't be any binding at all.  Nor should it have to be turned-out to the maximum.  If it's maxed-out, yes, I would think you'd have binding.  But, as you tighten the adjustment, it should only be at 1/4 turn at a time, then, with two fingers, try to wiggle the steering column shaft using minimal force.  The adjustment is done when the play is taken out and the shaft no longer moves freely without force.  At that point, you stop and tighten down the locking yolk.  Then, re-set the pre-load screw.  This could also cause a binding feeling if it's too tight or if you didn't loosen it to begin with.  If you've started by backing off the pre-load screw 1 turn, adjusted the steering box with the desired result, re-set the screw 1 turn and it binds, try backing-off the pre-load screw 1/4 turn at a time and see if the binding stops. - Sob



From: denison
Sent: 1/14/2005 6:49 PM

And if the binding cant be eliminated, you could undo the drag link, and see if the binding is really in the steering box, or maybe you have other things binding; like worn kingpins or bushings.
Generally the sector gear inside the steering box is ground to an eliptical radius, like cam ground pistons are, instead of a true circle. This is why you can have snug contact of the sector teeth against the -linear- teeth on the travelling "nut" in the straight ahead position, but still have play or "tolerance" when turned to the left or right. Very normal.
I have never needed to take a modern Saginaw steering box apart, was always able to simply adjust them. The badly worn steering boxes I have dismantled were the pre-war type, with sliding contact between the steering shaft worm gear and the sector gear. On pre-depression trucks like Bulldog Macks.
Unless the vehicle had far more mileage than our Winnies do - like 18 wheelers get, I would not expect enough adverse wear to result in any binding.
Couldnt the mechanic have made the adjustment, then with the front wheels off the ground, checked for binding by turning the wheels left/right from lock to lock?
When I drive slowly forward on level pavement and turn the Winnys steering wheel all the way to the right (or to the left), the wheel unwinds freely by itself as soon as I let it slide through my fingers - and in about 100 feet of travel at slow speed, would move back to straight ahead, without me touching it.
But if I shut off the motor while coasting slowly along with the wheel turned all the way to one direction, it wants to turn back with MUCH more force. 



From: drev59
Sent: 6/10/2005 10:52 PM

Bought a Skyjacker Steering Stabilizer(pt#7100) at local speed shop and installed on 73 brave. No problem installing and after driving I was amazed at the difference it made. One handed steering was no problem. Totally satisfied.--drev59



From: mazama
Sent: 6/12/2005 11:46 AM

I had a Bilstein steering stabilizer installed.  Great improvement in handling.

[johnfrederick]

Proud owner of an 1984 Chieftain, 23 RG. It has new Black Lion tires all around, cheap, but seem good enough for my occasional use. I'd like to upgrade the front end primarily with a steering stabilizer(s) or ..... Thing is prices make no sense. Some stabilizers are 50.00, some are 500.00. What do you really need ?

What else can be done to make the front end as good as it can be ?

   

[Oz]

Before adding a stabilizer, check all of your steering and front end components for wear and get them fixed. Including your steering gear, king pins, bushings, etc.

Stabilizers are a supplement, not a cure.

[johnfrederick]

Thanks for responding. Has all been checked out and up to spec. Coach only has 23,000 miles on it. I hope to improve it beyond original factory specification. Just trying to figure if it is possible and how to do it. I understand that I am trying to make a "silk purse out of a sows ear".  I never was the sharpest tool in the shed. Thanks, again.

[Oz]

I don't know why there's such a big difference in price with the stabilizers. I didn't put one on mine, but consider that this is a big, heavy vehicle, so I would choose one that's applicable for a heavy-duty truck.