Tub's leaking... removal?

[aaron7]

Every time we shower I get drips underneath all across the back... think I just found why my vanity is wet underneath!

Tub seems to be the culprit. Are these things glued in or anything? What might be leaking, the drain?

I knew the tub floor felt a little soft... bet I'll be replacing wood. Hope I don't have to gut the whole bathroom!!

[Oz]

I hope not either, but, if the floor is spongy, it sounds like that might be the case.  You've gotten quite a few views on the question, let's hope someone has had some experience with this.  We've had several people remove the shower pan but that was with 1970's models.  Not sure if the method changed or not.  When you do get into this, please post photos and comments as it will be a big helpt to others in the future too!

[aaron7]

 


The kinda post I was worried about! Was hoping I didn't have to pioneer this venture for others, but now knowing my duties I will document it well!

Is this a larger tub for a class-c? It's a 1984, Duo Form Corp T-1915, measures 24x40.

I could try running a ring of caulking around the drain but I rather not make a new exit hole while in the middle of a shower! 

[Oz]

It looks like that's a standard tub.  Only a very few different dimensions used depending on the interior layouts.  I would believe that the tub is pretty much "free standing", with only the drain being a solid attachment point.  The rest is held in place by the walls and around it.

There should be caulking around it if there were any quality of installation, but only jumping into it will tell.

There are some photos of taking out a shower pan and doing repair of the floor beneath.  Pretty recently too.  However, I must apologize that I don't remember who it was that did it.

[gary19734]

When you say spongy how spongy lots of these tubs are surounded by styrofoam and get spongy just from it compressing. Is there access to the back of tub faucet very common place to leak id check here first.If tub does need to come out need to remove all walls around tub and disconnct drain should be all thats holding it or maybe a few clips which you will be able to see with walls removed.Iwould run water without letting walls get wet to determine if its just caulking.also tape around drain to rule it out.

[aaron7]

Well, I was able to remove the furnace vent and peer under the tub.

It's sitting on styrofoam and then on 2x4"s.

What's leaking is the gasket on the drain itself. I could reach in and move the drain around!

Without gutting the whole thing I can't get in there to remove the drain. No access from underneath either unless I cut the aluminum flashing.

I tried a layer of JB water weld around the drain and it's now slowed to a small drip. Honestly that might be as far as I go as I don't want to be without a shower!

[kage]

This is not my setup and what I don't know about RVs would fill an encyclopedia, but doesn't that big nut spin around?  And typically the drain spins out too?

[legomybago]

10-4

[Oz]

Ah, yes.  I remember, I had a leak from that drain joint too.  In my '74, Indian, there was a small door on the hall wall that allowed access to the spigot plumbing as well as the drain... but, the room avaialbe to get at the drain was very little   It was absolutely maddening having to be only able to fit in a pair of slip-lock plier only one way and move it only about an eigth turn each time.

The PO had put some kind of sealant on the joint and it was leaking.  But since he did, it was impossible to get the tightening ring down to where I could move it with just my hand.  Turned out the elbow was cracked as well and needed to be replaced.  I removed the tub drain as well and discovered there was a bubble in the pan along the edge right where the drain goes in and it made it through quality control anyway.

I filled that with some fiberglass resin, put a new seal on and reinserted the drain, put on the new elbow with fresh sealant ONLY where it was needed.  It was good to go.  Other than taking a bit of time and a little swearing at how hard it was to reach the tightening ring.. it was good to go.

Like a lot of things I found on my vintage RV, there was just enough room to painfully do the job very slowly - LOL!

[aaron7]

I can turn the p-trap nut (and it turns the whole drain too) but can't budge the larger nut that holds the drain itself to the tub. Think I'd need a faucet wrench... but there's zero room in there. I can -just- get my hand to the drain but I can't turn it!!

If I was any better at... well, whatever you'd call replacing a tub, I'd do it. But if I rip that thing outta there it'll never go back in... or not pretty at least!

[legomybago]

Nope,..your gonna get some scraped up arms and hands!! Feel the burn....

[Froggy1936]

TIP : If you cant turn the nut that is holding the drain to the bottom of the tub Just get a Dremmel and a cutoff wheel and cut the nut Being carefull not to cut into tub . If you cut the nut on both sides evenly you can knock the nut off . This will require a delicate touch but its easier than removing tub. And if you accidentally cut the tub it can be repaired with a fiberglass kit . There is always a way . Another possibility might be a larger diameter drain also and just cut the old one out by cutting around the original drain . If you go larger make sure that there is room for plumbing to be reduced to stock size . Heat from a hair dryer might also help free up orig nut with Blaster penetrating oil Frank

[kage]

How about one of these?  If someone holds the bottom nut and someone else turns the drain at top? oops messed up the link but you can go see it still I think...

[Oz]

Copy/paste the IMG code to embed photos, not the HTML or direct link.