Where is the water tank Air Compressor & replacement?

[Scorpionbmw99]

Sent: 12/7/2004 5:32 PM

I have a new 72 Brave with the old pressurized water system.
I just got the mh and am still sorting things out.
I can't seem to locate the air compressor or where it should be.
There is a power converter box adjascent to the water tanks but thats it. .

Also, is it a waste to spend time/$$ getting the pressure system working again or should I just replace to a pump? I am pretty sure it all works save for the missing compressor.

thanks

[Jlogue88]

Sent: 12/7/2004 9:51 PM

The compressor should be under on of the rear benches, although I am not familure with your layout thats ware mine was.
And if you can't get it to work it's just better to get an on demand pump.

[Sea Hag]

Sent: 12/8/2004 9:38 AM

My 76 was converted from the original air compressor to a on demand pump by PO . The only draw back is that if I camp with water hookups - I still need to run the pump , and just fill the tanks from the water supply . I would have to add a bypass maniflold around the pump to use the water supply pressure . I have two 35 gallon tanks so you don't have to fill them often maybe once a day . when boondocking I can eaisily go three days or so without filling the tanks .
Sea Hag 

[Scorpionbmw99]

Sent: 12/13/2004 2:40 AM

So I figured out that the compressor was missing. there is an airline thats capped off sitting between the two steel tanks.

I filled the tanks and bled the air out, then I hooked up an external air compressor to the shraeder valve right above water the filling valve outside the mh. I pressurized the system to 100psi (is that too high?) and viola, the water in the sink(s)ran perfect. Toilet flush pressure was low though.

Problem is that the weird looking water/air filling port on the outside rear drivers side is cracked inside that "cup" and air is slowly leaking out. I have seen pix of other mh's that have a pressure gauge in that cup. I don't have one.

1. Should I just replace the whole assembly with a new part? preferably with a gauge? Granted I can find one.

2. Can I just put silcone over the crack? will it hold under pressure. maybe Plastic weld?

3. Was the original air compressor located right by the power converter? Can I just mount a new one right there rather than pressurize outside the mh?

thanks

[denisondc]

Sent: 12/13/2004 6:27 AM

     My winny has the system where the pump pushes water, and a pressure switch cuts it off at about 35 psi.  There is a small air dome so the pump doesnt have to run until you use enough water for the pressure to drop some.   The toilet in mine doesnt have a flush like household commodes do, but rather a liesurely strem of water swirls down when you push the foot lever down.  Gravity flow after that. 
    I am guessing; that most RV water supplies are designed for 40 to 50 psi.  There are regulators you can buy when you are hooking up to campground water supplies, if they are higher than than - to keep higher pressures from making leaks.    The water pressure in my house is regulated to 50 psi at the water meter.   

[Sea Hag]

Sent: 12/13/2004 11:38 AM

If your primary use will be docked to a water supply I would get a new regualtor / fill  valve , so if there is a serge in the water supply you are hooked to , it won't burst any of your lines . If your going to go self cantained as well I would convert to a on demand pump . I got a replacement shur flo for 59.00 at a farm and fleet . set at 60 lbs . the more expensive ones draw less amps and are quieter . depends on your budget . Sea Hag 

[Scorpionbmw99]

Sent: 12/13/2004 5:40 PM

Can I assume I can find the parts at winnebagoparts.com?

Probably will convert to a on demand pump eventually.
I don't understand exactly how the pump works though. Is it constantly powered but only turns on when needed?
How does the pump know when to start pumping?
Is it controlled manually?

[Sea Hag]

 Sent: 12/14/2004 9:19 AM

The shurflo on demand pumps and other brands have a pressure switch built in , some are ajustable . Your air compresssor would have a swicth too. Either built in or a seperrate switch in line some where . Sea Hag 

[Daved27c]

Sent: 12/21/2004 10:44 PM

Scorpion;

I haven't had to teach a hydrolics class recently, but here goes. On the original system, you filled the tank with water. once it was full, and you shut the hose off the tank had zero pressure in it. When you turned on the compressor it added pressure to the tanks that pushed the water to the faucets. The compressor had a pressure switch on it that turned the compressor on when the air pressure got low so that you could recharge the system. If you use all the water in the tanks then the system would fill with air, because the air would fill the area that was previouly filled with water. In this type of system(when you are not flowing water) everything is at the same pressure. On a water pump system the tanks have no pressure on them. the water flows from the tank to the pump with zero or slightly negative pressure. the pump then pressurizes the water to send to the faucet. As was mentioned,  with all the faucets off the pump will run untill it builds up enough water pressure to trip the pressure switch. When you open a faucet the pressure will start to drop. When the switch senses this it will turn the pump on. I hope this helps, I think a replacement compressor is hard to find, so changing over might be a good idea.

Dave

[tymhoff]

Sent: 12/24/2004 3:12 PM

One more note about converting to a demand type system from a pressure system, learned the hard way. The first trip that we took after converting my system, my wife was trying to take a shower right after I did, but the water came out in a trickle then not at all. Before the system switch, we could both take showers, give the kids baths and have water to spare, so why was I seemingly out of water already?! Did I not fill the tanks all the way? No. Was the pump faulty? No again. I found out that when the pump sucks water from the tanks, physics dictates that something must replace the water being removed, in this case, air. When you use a system that was made to be air tight with a suction device like a demand type water pump, you must allow air to access the tanks by opening your bleeder valves, the same ones that you open when you are filling the tanks.

[Daved27c]

Sent: 12/24/2004 11:49 PM

Excellent point Ty;

The negative pressure created in the tanks has to be compensated by allowing air to replace the water in the tanks. If we are converting from an air pressure system to a water pump system then the tanks must be vented. On a larger system a big pump would collapse the tanks if they were not vented. On the scale of the Winne non vented tanks would lead to the problems you described. Thanks for the input.

Dave

[Scorpionbmw99]

Sent: 1/5/2005 8:25 PM

Thanks for the education.
My pressure system works well save for a missing compressor.
I have been using a basic 12v compressor that I hook up to the outside fill valve. It works but I would like to wire the compressor into the original system next to the tanks for convience. Whats the best way to to this? It's simple enough to hook it up inline, but what about a switch and psi gauge? Where would I find a switch that kicked on the compressor when the pressure is low?

I plan to convert to a shurflo system with acumulator but not until summer. too many other projects.

[Sea Hag]

Sent: 1/8/2005 10:05 AM

You can get a Well Pressure Tank Switch a any good home center or hardware store , they are not very expensive and although they are designed for 110Vac they will work for 12volt . . Use a tee fitting in the air supply line to or  mount it . you can also manifold another tee fitting for a pressure gauge . The well switches are also Pressure ajustable . Sea Hag 

[burt6666]

Off topic here...just glad to see someone use "voila" properly instead of "walla"   

[Oz]

 :)rotflmao