73 dodge 270 travco need tie rod/draglink/swaybar?

Started by DivinylRecords, August 20, 2017, 05:24 PM

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DivinylRecords

not sure what it is called but looking at the parts catalogue or service manual i think the bar that controls front tires on my travco is badly bent and the tire wear and loose steering makes it unsafe to even drive over 40 mph.. Any idea where i can source this bar and about how much they cost. ive had the bar to the point where it almost touches the ground the bushings are all smashed in too.   i can try to upload pictures later today.  not sure if its called a swaybar/draglink/tie-rod

DaveVA78Chieftain

I think the bar (tube) you are referring to the tie rod tube (Dodge P/N 1932170).  The left and right side tie rod ends connect to it.  The tie rod ends connect to the steering knuckles attached to wheel spindles.  Drag Link from the pitman arm (steering box) connects to the driver side steering knuckle also.

Given you say you have a 413-1, do you also have front drum brakes and 5 lug 16" rims?  If so, then you have M375 not M400 chassis.  The P/N I listed is for the M375 chassis.  You will need to ensure you know what chassis you have for this

So far I have not seen anyone that has one.  You may have to go wrecking yard like Arizona RV Salvage.

I suspect you may need kingpins also.
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DivinylRecords

really, I'm basically unable to drive at this point it has worn the left from tire inside bare.  I'm so confused by the different numbers.. its a 1973 travco with a 413 but on the side it says dodge motor home 270 so this is going to be difficult to get ?


DivinylRecords

i do have front disc brakes nd 5 lugs also leaf springs in the front...so that part number is what i should be looking for, and i have an m375?

DaveVA78Chieftain

First, TRAVCO, the RV mfg, built the house on top of a Dodge chassis.  In your case the house portion is a TRAVCO 270.

All chassis parts are referenced to the Dodge chassis the house portion was built on.  Depending on year model, a TRAVCO 270 was built on either a Dodge M375 (front drum brakes) or RM350 (front disk brakes) chassis.
Typically, in the 73 era, TRAVCO mounted the Dodge VIN number plate on the inside panel next to the drivers side seat.   With a 413-1, I would expect you to have the M375 chassis however, you indicate front disk brakes which started with the RM350 chassis.  To help identify the actual chassis, do you have 17" (M375) or 17.5" (RM350) tires up front?

Based on what I read in the parts book, both the M375 and the RM350 used the same tie rod tube P/N.
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DivinylRecords


DivinylRecords

took this photo a while back theres also vin information from dodge on the front of the rv.  but this is from travco corp/ maybe this can help figure out which one i have.

Elandan2

OK, no question, your tie rod tube is toast!! Have alook in the parts manual for the correct part and then search with that number.
Rick and Tracy Ellerbeck

Rickf1985

Someone hooked up a tow strap in the WRONG spot!

Warren

If Napa, et al; do not have this,  they may have it, or a drawing, or you send it to them and they will
make it.   
It will be very high quality, and the price will reflect it. 


http://rareparts.com/

DivinylRecords

A friend of mine said that tube is hollow and the same thing will keep happening/ and will be nearly impossible to find, he said go to the junkyard and try and find a bar that is close to same length...Im on the side of the road now 3 days i dont want to even drive it at all with the inside of my right front tire almost bald.  any suggestions? I wrote to the salvage yard in AZ but havent gotten a reply.

DivinylRecords

Dave still unsure about what chassis I Have, the stamp on the front from dodge says m400 ?

DivinylRecords

Ok, after reading through some old threads I definitely have an M375 but the PO must have put the 8R19.5 tires on, anyhow still need to do something fast about this tire-rod tube.

DaveVA78Chieftain

I pointed you to Arizona Salvage (<- link) because I could not find a replacement part anywhere

VIN M49CN2J552161

M4 = M375
9 =     Forward Control & Motor Home Chassis, Incomplete chassis, CB300 Kary Van, Sport Utility
C =     10,001 lbs to 14,000 lbs GVW
N = 413-1
2 = 1972 chassis year
J =     Canadian Built
52161 = Serial #
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Rickf1985

If you are on the side of the road you are going to need to get the rod off and to a place with a press to straighten it and then brace it with 1/4" thick angle iron welded along it on two or four sides to hold it straight until you can get a replacement. This is a repair I have done many times on four wheeling trucks and it works but it is not a permanent repair. ( I know people who have run it for years and also those who do the reinforcement ahead of time so the tube does not bend) I cannot condone using it as permanent, it will get you by for quite a while if done correctly though.

Make sure the weld is stitch welded, not welded full length which will weaken the steel.

DivinylRecords

at this point it looks like my only options are to take the bar off and have it welded, anyone know a good place in the san diego area to take it too, or what type of shop? Ive had really bad luck with mechanics in paying lots of money and having nothing really fixed.. i uploaded a few more closer up pictures. thank you so much for all the suggestions and help Rick and Dave . I

DivinylRecords

for some reason having difficulty uploading images even after resize...

DivinylRecords


DivinylRecords

drivers side tire and rear side view of the beast...notice the bar bend

tmsnyder

Wow. Just .....wow.   


Do what Rick said above.   If you remove that bent piece, you could use a press to bend the link back into a shape that will clear whatever it needs to clear in order to do its job while still being as straight as possible.   Minimize the bends so that it can be as rigid as possible but still clear all the other suspension components by a good 1" throughout its range of motion.  Check with wheels full left, full right, and moving full left and right.  While laying under the RV and putting it through its motions, mark where the bracing steel can be welded on without interfering with any other part of the RV.


Then weld on the bracing steel or have it welded on at a welding shop.  I wouldn't even bother trying to find the part, just fix what you have.

CapnDirk

I assume you are going to eventually replace?  Since it is down, put a floor jack under it and and send it back up.  It's just a piece of tubing threaded inside on the ends in most cases.  A welding shop will not hack a suspension piece, too much liability.  I think your best bet is to get it to where you can work on it after the floor jack, remove it, and take it to a metal fab shop for duplication.


Tell them it's an adjustable brace for your shop equipment.   ;)
"Anything given sufficient propulsion will fly!  Rule one!  Maintain propulsion"

"I say we nuke the site from orbit.  It's the only way to be sure"

DivinylRecords

im really running into a wall here not sure what to do.. I know its just a metal bar thats between 52-58 inches.. I found this company that makes a tie rod assembly for trucks.  do you think this could possibly work. http://www.stemco.com/product/qwiktie/                   
http://www.stengelbros.net/QTT5773-QWINKTIE-tube_p_18507.html




Elandan2

Looks like you found your replacement.  :)clap As long as it has the right diameter and correct threads on each end it will work. Like you already said, it's just a tube!!
Rick and Tracy Ellerbeck

Rickf1985

I have dealt with Stengel several times, good people to deal with.

Oz

1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca