Need '71 D20 Power Steering Pump PN & brake bleeding advice

[MSN Member]

From: trader_reed
Sent: 3/25/2007

What is the part number for my 71 D20 power steering pump? I'd like to just walk in to NAPA and give them the part number. Also is it easy to change the pump without the reservoir? or should I just do the whole thing?

[Lefty]

Sent: 3/25/2007

Chrysler Part # is 3735066  I don't know if that would interchange with their part #'s or not. You should be able to get one by specifying a '71 Dodge D-300 pick-up.
Get the entire pump assembly. If you get a kit, you'd have to do the assembling yourself & it's not worth the trouble for the small difference in cost. Plus if it leaks, you'd not have a warranty to protect you.

[MSN Member]

From: trader_reed
Sent: 3/25/2007

Ok I think my steering pump problem is due to my poor brake bleeding. Any advice on this? How can I fix my spongy brakes a lack of (Power) power steering. I'm not not to working on car but this is killing me.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 3/25/2007

Trader,
I am hoping that you already have the manual available to all members here. It's that thing I spent 6 months scanning in to my computer, and umpteen hours uploading to various file servers. It details exactly how to bleed a Hydro-vac system. All you have to do is read the chapter, "Brake Systems".

[Oz]

Sent: 3/26/2007

And it's easy too!

One suggestion:  If you don't already have one, spend the extra money and get a vacuum hand pump for bleeding the lines.  It's sooooo much faster.

Caution:  Watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs, they drain down really fast using the pump.  It helps to have a second person just filling the reservoirs; that will save you a whole lot of rolling out and under the rig.

Also, if you think it's been quite a while since the brakes were last bled, bleed the entire system out, replacing all the fluid.  Then, wait a day or two and just do a maintenance bleed.  With all that brake line and the boosters, there can typically be air trapped in the lines which you won't get the first time, mainly because the bubbles break up under the pressure of bleeding the system into very, very tiny ones (You can see them in the clear tubing used with the vacuum pump).  This time allows the bubbles to re-combine.  When you first get into the process, depress the brake pedal very slowly to build up pressure.  This will force the bubbles farther down the lines, closer to the bleeding valves, and prevent them from breaking up again, closer to the bleeding valves.

Initially, I had to do this 3 times on my rig, but each time, the initial pedal firmness was noticeably better.  The last time just took a couple of pumps on each bleeder valve.

- Sob  

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 3/26/2007

I agree with Mark 100% !!!  If you can, invest in or borrow a hand pump style vacuum bleeder!  Once I did that on the Ark, the brakes were absolutely incredible!  I didn't realize how good proper brakes on our old rigs could be until I used a vacuum bleeder.

Kev

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Sent: 3/26/2007

Just a silly question here.  Given that they did not change the power breaks over to the power steering pump until 1976/1977, why are you saying your poor brakes are due to your power steering pump.  71 chassis used the vacuum boosters (hydro-vac).  Only way the power steering pump would be involved is if you changed the entire system out to a later year model.

Dave

[MSN Member]

From: trader_reed
Sent: 3/26/2007

Yes you are correct, it's a Hydro-Vac system. My power steering problems where due to a bad pump. My pump is a 68-69 Chevy truck V8, Non of the Dodge style pumps were even close. Actually all the pumps are basically the same just the tank, hose connections and mounts are different. What are the chances that while working a brake problem that a power steering problems arises, thats why I shot from the his and assumed I had a Hydro-boost system.

I'll get out there and finish the brake bleed when it warms up.
Keep you posted