1973 413 Distributor parts relplacement Questions

[Catalina362]

Sent: 7/4/2007 2:23 PM

I have a 1973 20 foot brave with a 413 engine we just changed the timing to 5 degrees before top dead center. We do not know weather the vacuum advance is working. Does anyone have a part number for the vacuum advance module on the top of the distributor? Also is it easier to rebuild pieces of the Distributor like the spring on the shaft assembly vacuum advance area, or completely replace the distributor? Where could I get a new distributor? The engine has only 34,000 original miles on it, and it was running great up until last year this time, when it began overheating and we started chasing the heat problem. I am not sure that the vacuum advance is not part of my heating problem. Any help will be greatly appreciated thanks.



From: 78brave1   
Sent: 7/4/2007 2:44 PM

check out this link for your part  http://www.jimsautoparts.com/engine_ignition_parts.htm



From: Catalina362   
Sent: 7/4/2007 3:46 PM

Thanks 78 Brave1 That site is great. Have a great fourth of july.



From: MSN Catalina362   
Sent: 7/5/2007 1:23 PM

Does anyone know if you can buy a 1973 dodge 431 distributor vacuum chamber (the piece where the vacuum line connects to the distributor) from a NAPA or any other chain auto parts store. I'm in Souther California and have trouble finding parts for my Rig. I'm a little weary about internet shipping because I've spent oodles of money this last few weeks on the rig and don't want to get something that won't work .thanks



From: Slantsixness   
Sent: 7/5/2007 1:48 PM

You have to be careful here.

Early 413 (71 and earlier) have a distributor that is backwards from the 413 440 distributor due to the timing gear arrangement.

If the ignition is factory electronic or has been converted, then be sure you have the correct distributor! The newer style will "work" on older engines (by "work" I mean they will run, but the vacuum advance servo and centrifugal weights will retard the timing instead of advance it!!)

Old style: Turning the distributor clockwise advances the timing.
New style: Turning the distributor counterclockwise advances the timing.

The only noticeable difference outside is the vacuum servo on the odl style is on the left, and the newer style is on the right.

The parts are available. The key here is:

62-71 383/413/426(wedge, not Hemi) "B" engines use the "old" style. (non-electronic, either.
72-80 400/413/440 (the 440 is an "RB" use the new style.) These are all electronic.

The electonic versus points doesn't matter when it comes to the vacuum servo, it is the same part for either.

(the 426 max wedge, 426 Hemi and 400 PI  engines use a completely different setup)

Check the drawing/ illustration at NAPA, and you can find the correct vacuum advance servo.

They are both still available, although not likely "on the shelf".

So... is the advance vacuum servo bad, or could it be the wrong distributor?

Tom



From: denisondc   
Sent: 7/5/2007 2:53 PM

If your vacuum advance diaphragm is working, you should be able to suck on the hose to it, and cause the swivel plate to rotate a couple of degrees. (It will be a visible rotation). This with the distributor cap off of course.
But if the vacuum advance doesn't move that swivel plate, you can still time the engine, since its to be timed with the vacuum advance disconnected anyway, and if the vacuum advance doesn't work at all, don't worry. You will never notice any difference in driveability, power, or engine heat. Your MPG will be a little worse - maybe dropping from 7 to 6 mph.
It is vital to ensure the centrifugal advance is working though. Under the rotor at the top of the distributor shaft is a place to put a couple of drops of oil. You should be able to rotate the rotor up to 7 degrees counter-clockwise and it should spring back to the same place each time.
5 degrees BTDC is good. Since the 413 is a low compression engine, I find I am able to run mine at 7 to 8 degrees BTDC, and get (slightly) better MPG.
I think the main difference between the distributors for the 413-1 in the motor homes, and the distributors in the automobile engines, is the centrifugal advance curves and vacuum advance curves. The centrigual advance is only about 15 degrees for the motor home engines, (cause they aren't expected to turn high rpm) and more like 25 degrees for the engines in the cars, that turn at much higher rpm - to get the large horsepower figures they put on the air cleaner lid. So the distributor from a cars would still work pretty well. However, they would all have points in them - dating from the 60s.
For that matter, would not the distributor from a 440-3 or even a 440-1 might work as well in the 413?



From: Slantsixness   
Sent: 7/6/2007 9:39 AM

The conundrum here is That his 413 could be a 71, 72 or 73... depending on when the chassis was made, or what the date code says on the engine block.

There is little difference in the distributors (except the "backwards" older style) Between the car versions and the motor home versions, regardless of th which model "B" engine it is. The primary difference in the centrifigal advance weights is the springs (which set the advance curve), and whether or not the springs have a slip groove in them on one side (mostly only on cars, used when sitting in stop and go traffic.. it allows the engine to Idle down faster and retard the timing 3 degrees for curb idle "faster"...no biggie)

If the distributor is the correct 73 distributor, then yes, the 440 distributor and or parts from one is a bolt in swap, without re-curving, even.

Tom