transmission selector adjustment 727

[Clyde9]

From: tcactyl  (Original Message)
Sent: 7/23/2006 7:17 AM

Hi all, please bear with me on this one . I have searched the messsage boards and suitably armed with  info I now safely assume the following

    * the chieftain 440-3 has a 727 ...3 speed heavy duty tranny ?
    * I found this info on a previous thread and that you remove the pan carefully, somewhere inside there is the low and reverse band which you can loosen off  locknut and re tighten to 72 lbs/in then back off 2 turns...etc.....correct ?
    * the kick down is outside below the driver side...same idea, 2 turns etc @ 72 lbs/in (will I be able to easily identify it ?)
    * how about the filter , is that a replacement or can it be reused ? does anyone have a part # for me ?
    * to replace pan (here, over the pond... UK) will I be able to reuse the gasket with suitable sealant ? or any ideas on making a replacement and what is torque on pan bolts ?
    * is there any way of establishing the dexron/ATF volume I will need assuming I will replace and disconnect hose near transmission cooler with motor running (previous thread)

Thierry



From: ClydesdaleKevin
Sent: 7/23/2006 11:48 AM

You've done your homework, Thierry!  I can answer a couple of your questions.  As far as the adjustments go, I'll leave that to folks that have done it.  The only adjustments I've made on my tranny is the linkage rod that goes from the carburetor to the transmission.  You make that adjustment at the carburetor by removing the cotter pin and washer, sliding the linkage rod off, and spinning the threaded end forward or back to achieve adjustment.  Basically, when adjusted properly, when the gas pedal is release all the way, the lever on the side of the transmission should be all the way forward....when the gas pedal is depressed all the way to the floor, the lever on the side of the transmission should be all the way back.  Usually this means that the rod on the carburetor should just touch the rear of the slot on the adjustment rod when the pedal is released, unless you have an after market carb, in which case you may have to tinker with it a bit.

The filter is another one I can answer...you should replace it.  They are cheap, and usually come with a new gasket.  Use an RTV type sealer on both sides of the new gasket when you replace it.  As far as the torque goes, I don't have my book in front of me, but its not much...something like 16 foot pounds...I'm sure someone here can give you a definate answer.

Capacity is another I can't give you an exact answer for without my book in front of me, but as I recall its something like 6 quarts...I think that is the max capacity with draining the torque converter, but again, its a guess without my book, so wait for a real answer...but basically, if you aren't sure, add 5 quarts, start up the engine, let it run for a while until the tranny is fully warmed up, and then shift the transmission through all its gears, holding it in each gear for a moment, and finally end up with the transmission in neutral...check the fluid...add small amounts at a time, checking after each time (engine still running) using the same proceedure, letting it set in each gear for a moment, and then put it in neutral, and check the fluid.  Keep doing this until it is full.

Good luck!

Kev



From: denisondc
Sent: 7/24/2006 4:42 PM

Usually the gasket and filter are sold together, at least in the U.S. We just ask for an -oil change kit- for a 727 transmission. If you are unable to find this -kit-, I can buy one here and mail it to you. They are fairly cheap here. Look at www.summitracing.com, their part number: FRM-FT1039. Only one of the gaskets pictured is for the 727, the other is for the other transmission this kit covers. Also see their part number: TCI-128500, which is the type having the rubbery composition gasket.
If the gasket is cork, use a sealant, like the rtv gasket maker. If the gasket is a rubbery composition material, it could be the kind where you DO NOT use a sealant. The semi-cured rubber material seems to be non-compatible with the rtv sealants. ( I learned this the hard way).
And typically the pan gasket comes out in pieces, has to be scrapped off the case bottom and the pan flange.
As per the service manual, the pan bolts should be torqued to 150 inch pounds - [about13 ft-lbs?] I think it is better to under-tighten them than to over-tighten. The case is just aluminum after all. I make sure there are no stripped threads in the case. If so you should use a helicoil insert. My technique is to torgue them up to that setting, going around the circuit of bolts more than once. Then I check them a couple of days later, and they all turn a tiny amount. Then I check them again a week later, still tightening to 13 lb-ft, and they all turn a tiny amount more. I snug them up again after I have used the RV and the tranny has experienced the temperature changes of highway use.
The tranny oil pan flange needs to be -flat-. Its common for people to overtighten them, trying to stop a leak, and -dimple- the holes. They have to be hammered flat before you try to put it back together.
While it is apart you can remove the disptick/filler tube, and either replace the grommet at the bottom of the tube, or put a ring of RTV gasket maker there, giving it 24 hours to cure before you put the dextron-III in. I think people tighten the pan bolts hoping to stop a leak, but it might be the grommet on the disptick tube leaking, or the seal around the shifter shaft.
The manual says the tranny holds 19 pints, or 16 pints of imperial measure. [I thought a pint was a pint!] That is if you are able to get the fluid out of the torque converter also.



From: Jupp318
Sent: 7/24/2006 5:48 PM

Hi Thierry,

You are quite correct about the 72in/lbs torque and back off 2 turns.  For those who have a 318 (Like me) the kick down band (external adjuster) is backed off 2 1/2 turns for the 318 ONLY.  If you are finding parts difficult to obtain any transmission specialist will have the bits in the UK, you just have to pay more.  Like Dave Dennison suggested I bought mine from summit racing, but only because I was buying quite a few bits.  They charge a handling fee of about $25 so make it worth your while if you go that route.  Also ask for Torqueflite 727 oil change/service set.  My local dealer was going to charge £25 for the gasket and filter as opposed to Summits $9.00 at the time.

If you need any help I'm also in the UK, in Farnborough, Hampshire.  You can easily get a Transmission book from ebay.  I bought one last year and they are cheap and very good although they don't tell you any more than a Dodge chassis service manual if all you are doing is servicing your transmission.
Cheers Ian...