Bleeding Brakes

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 4/29/2005

I'll figure something out for the air filter, and thanks for the part number! 

Thanks Dave!

Kev and Patti Smith

[labbie1]

Ok Glenn tried to bleed the brakes on the beast today and managed to get the rear driver done but couldn't get anything open on the passenger side rear due to rust. He got some air out of the drivers rear but the pedal keeps going to the floor. The brake lines are run through the frame. We topped the brake fluid off and bleeding did seem to help some. The problem seems to be that when you press the brake pedal it goes  to the floor and the vaccum gauge reads around 15 at an idle. If you raise the idle to where the gauge reads about 20 you can pump up the brakes have plenty of brake pedal??? There are no bleeders going into the boosters ( just vaccum lines) How much pedal we have seems to be contingent on what the vaccum gauge is reading.  I have searched several topics without success but since we started by bleeding the brakes I decided to start here. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Oz]

There are bleeders for both boosters.  These should be bled first.  They are on the boosters themselves. on the long, thin part which extends toward the front of the RV.  This removes the air between them and the master cylinder.  If there is air in there, anything done with the rest of the system will yield minimal to no improvement. 

When I bled the brakes prior to shipping the Chariot to Brads, the pedal went to the floor.  When I bled the master cylinder to booster lines, immediately the brake pedal pressure returned to normal, which is definitely firm.

Look in the manual.  It shows the booster and lines along the frame pretty well.

If you continually loose pressure with no obvious signs of leakage at the wheels, master cylinder or boosters, look along the inner frame, driver side, where the boosters are located.  There are junction fittings there which split the lines out to the wheels,  You can see them easily.

[labbie1]

We were really scared last night after talking with our mechanic. He really thought the brakes were a vaccum issue and we needed to replace the brake booster. I spent the evening searching for brake boosters online. Read  the owners manual cover to cover (thanks Mark), ordered the service manual (thanks Mark) and finally gave up in tears and went to bed as the sun was about to come up.
We did find a place in Pittsburgh that rebuilds brake boosters and from what I understand they do quality work but they are VERY pricey @ $350 a booster!

So after only a few hours sleep we hit the storage lot armed with Marks step by step instructions on how to bleed the brakes to try one last time. It took alot of PB blaster and some unmentionable cuss words from Glenn under the coach but we finally did it step by step and guess what? The sky's parted, the angels began to sing and miraculously WE HAD BRAKES! THANKS MARK!

[Oz]

UR most welcome. 

[JDxeper]

Good show, Sob

[Oz]

Something I've learned over the few, short years of my vintage RV ownership and membership in CWVRV.  Use the resources... the manuals and the Message Search. 

And the main point I've learned... start with the simplest solutions first.  Most often that's where the fix is.

That's a darned good thing too, especially for us novice, wanna-be, backyard mechanics with a very limited budget for repairs.

[LJ-TJ]

And the main point I've learned... start with the simplest solutions first.

And, don't be afraid to ASK. It will get you there much quicker!  D:oH!

[Alaskan Rodgers]

I was told by O ' Reilly Auto Parts that WIX has a replacement cartidge for the: Air Fram Filter Cartidge CA-2 PL1, Good Luck <]:{☆

[LJ-TJ]

I tried this and it worked like a dreamhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioHjV4d6BWk