Voltage drop BEFORE Ballast Resistor

[vacuumbed]

Hi everyone,
I am upgrading my ignition system on my 78 Pace Arrow 440-3 to a distributor with a built in module, eliminating the Chrysler module and BR. After pulling all the old stuff off, I checked the voltage on the 2 red wires going in to the old BR and I only get 11.30 volts when the vehicle has 12.54 volts at the starter relay  Is this normal?

And of course, the red wires go from 12V to 0 when the key is moved fron the "ON" position to "START". I can't find any wire that have power when the key on the start posistion. Arrgh! I shoulda got a FORD! 

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

From the stock Dodge perspective:
The 2 18 gauge red wires that go to the same ballast resistor connector are from the Ignition switch "ON" (IG1) position.  Should be voltage there during both start and run.
The 14 gauge Pink wire on the other ballast resistor connector comes from the ignition switch "start" terminal (IG2).  Used to bypass the ballast resistor during start.  Same ballast resister terminal as coil + wire.

Voltage reduction is connector losses.  A known weak point is the connector at the bottom of the steering wheel.  Feeds to from ignition switch.  It has a rounded shape to it and is about 2" wide.  White in color.  Many have to jumper around it due to coorded contacts.  This is not a Ford or Chevy.  All of the run/start current flows through the ignition switch.  No tap off from the starter solinoid during start.

Dave