No starter no life in the dash!

[slabghost]

I last started it no problem about a month ago. Went out to run it around a bit and reconnected the batteries and there is nothing. But the lights in back all work brightly. I checked the batteries and they are still charged. There must be a corroded connection somewhere causing this but where?

[brians69d24]

Do any of the idiot lights come on when you turn the ignition on? Do you hear a clicking from the starter solenoid when you turn the ignition to start? Do the headlights come on? Have you tried it in neutral?

brian

[slabghost]

No clicking, no idiot lights, no headlights, No turn signal. tried it all in park and neutral. No power to wipers or heater fan or radio even.

[brians69d24]

Are the terminals connected onto  the battery clean and tight? How about where the terminal connects onto the cable? Were the battery posts clean? The battery is charged, right ?  The cables aren't connected backwards on the battery? (it's happened!)


Is there a battery switch that is off or not configured?

Do you have a voltmeter or 12volt test light?

brian

[brians69d24]

Sorry, just re-read you're first post which just answered some of my questions.
Is there a fusible link that is blown?

You will want to check your wiring diagram, but on mine power runs from the battery to the starter relay (and then on to the starter). There is also a tap off there to power the fuse panel which is under the dash. If everything looks good at the battery then the next place to poke around with the meter would be there.
brian

[jkilbert]

you said the lights in the back work. I'm assuming you mean the coach interior lights. So...double check to make sure you hooked up the chassis correctly. Is the battery that you're connecting to the chassis a good battery??? They have been known to give it up after sitting for a while. Look at the simple things first. if you had the batteries disconnected, then with no power there is little reason for a shorted fuse or fusable link.


john

[Stripe]

I am going with a blown fuse here, I feel it in me bones.. Arhhhh...

CMM500

[Oz]

It sounded to me that it's the rear chassis lights which are "glowing brightly".  If so, then there's power to the chassis system, but only to the rear light circuit.

The batteries are fully charged and, after ensuring the batteries are properly connected then... 

The fusible link or blown main dash fuse sound like prime culprits as suggested as quick, first items to check.

If not these, then it will be a matter of checking the chassis electrical system from the battery forward to see where the supplied power stops and there would be your problem.

[slabghost]

Interior lights all work just fine. I didn't alter the battery wiring at all when this happened. I have one small fuse panel under the dash at the left wall with two 30amp fuses. Where do I find the main fuse block on this beast? I expect it probably is a bad fuse, corroded connection, or a fuseable link has given up. I just need a little help in where to look.

[brians69d24]

My suggestion would be to follow the positive cable from the engine battery and see where it leads, examining everything along the way.  With you having no power to anything, it would have be in the bigger, thicker main cabling.

Follow the negative cable to where attaches to the chassis.  Does it look nice and clean?

[Oz]

That fuse panel you have to worm under the dash to get to is your main fuse panel.  However there is a fusible link along the driver side frame interior and this is a common problem item but, there's a super fix for it posted by LJ-Tj.   I believe the 1977 models have 2 fusible links but, I'm not positive.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Slabghost,
Information in your header is confusing.  Do you have a class C on a Van chassis or a Brave on a Class A chassis?  Wiring is simular between the 2 but different.  Either chassis would have main battery power go to the starter solinoid on the frame rail outboard the starter (drivers side).  At least I think the van version has it in the same place.  There would be 2 fusible links off of the solinoid.  One feeds the alternator and ignition switch, the other feeds the hazard warning flasher.  We have the 78 Class A wiring diagram in the Free Manuals section which will work OK for you if a Class A chassis.  Sorry, no Van chassis diagrams though.

Dave

[slabghost]

I have the Brave on a truck chassis. No semblance of van body or frame I can see. I am on a dial up connection is there a source to buy wiring diagrams and manuals on paper? Hm?

[Oz]

Then, you have a class A, not a class C type. 

There's sources on the web to buy paper copies but I don't see why dial-up would keep you from downloading wiring diagrams from here.  They're tiny in file size.  I'm on about the slowest dial-up there is and I had no problem either uploading or downloading any of our manuals. 

I even bought an upgraded Adobe Publisher so I could make them searchable and indexed and much still much smaller in size without having to zip them so everyone... even OldEdBrad, could download them... and he has DinoWeb connection!

PS.  I changed the RV Class type to A from the Class C type you originally selected when you completed your registration.

[slabghost]

Thanks for clarifying the class. Insurance said it was a "c" due to it's length. I'll go with that for lower cost insurance.

[slabghost]

update- Installed fresh batteries and started checking with a multimeter. Power is up to the start solenoid and the fuseable links are good. Power also present at a solenoid on the left wall under the dash. No power at all in the fuse panel at any terminal. I'm thinking now it might be the ignition switch has failed. Time to dig that out.

[Oz]

I'm glad I never had to go that far with the troubleshooting.  To me, it's like hunting tiny, black spiders in a cave... oh, and blind.  But, there's a process and, when someone goes through it, it help those of us who feel like it's beyond our ability. 

[slabghost]

Ignition switch has been removed and a replacement ordered. The turn signal switch no longer clicked in place so that too is on order. I sure hope this is the cure. I think it probably is since the ignition switch only had power at one terminal in any position.

[slabghost]

I energized the mystery relay on the left wall under the dash and it finally powered up. Anyone know what is supposed to energize it?

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

It is added by Winnebago.  If I remember correctly, it is powered on by the ignition switch.  I want to say it is a coach battery not chassis battery source though and is fused by one of the auto reset circuit breakers in the battery compartment.  It should not control the main chassis power though.

There are 2 white flat connectors at the base of the steering wheel.  Both have 8 pins but one has 5 larger pins and 3 smallr pins.  Wire colors are Orange (start; 18 gauge), Red (Ignition 1; 16 gauge), Pink (ignition 2; 14 gauge) and white (ground for monitor circuit; 18 gauge).  Ignition 1 is used for normall engine run.  Ignition 2 is ballast resistor bypass when starting the engine.  Start is routed back to the start solinoid (on frame rail) via the transmission nuetral safety switch to engage the starter.  So, when ignition is in run postion, you should only have voltage on the red wire.  Start has voltage on red, orange and pink wires.
The other white flat connector (all 8 pins used) is used for turn signals and horn.

Dave

[slabghost]

Thank you for the clarification and identifying the relay. So much of the wiring in this vehicle has been modified I won't have time to get it sorted out before vacation. There is no power at all to the ignition switch to energize the solenoid so for now I'll add a switch to energize it. Kind of a cheap anti theft device for now. Thanks to all of your suggestions and help I can now use my new to me motor home.