Transmission Removal & Replacement 1987 Windcruiser

Started by dgapilot, April 16, 2012, 12:43 PM

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dgapilot

OK, I finally started working on the Windcruiser and I need to drop the transmission for overhaul. The Chevy P-30 manual is somewhat cryptic on the R&R, just says disconnect stuff, move the cross member and drop the transmission.

In order to move the cross member, it looks like on how to pull the brake assembly off?

Again, not much info in the manual. Also if anyone has any preferred places to get a TH475 overhauled in the MD, DC, VA area, let me know.

dgapilot

Got the parking brake off, now on to the rest of it.

ClydesdaleKevin

Good luck and be safe...those things are heavy!

Take lots of pics, since myself and a lot of others would be very interested in the process.

I'm not sure about where in the Virginia/DC/Maryland area would be a good place to bring a transmission, but TinyTina lives in Maryland, so she might have an idea, and Tom (Slantsixness) used to live there for a long time, and knows the area quite well, so you could try shooting him a PM as well.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

dgapilot

Getting the MH high enough to get the tranny out is one of the big problems. The Windcruiser has basement storage, so the storage boxes hang down pretty low below the frame. I have a pair of jack stands up on pieces of 6X6 to get the rig high enoug. I have a HF transmission jack that I got for this job. It will only go down to about 8" so I think I'm going to have to drop the tranny off the jack and pull it out after I get it down. This is my first automatic, so I'm taking it slow. I'll try and get some pics as I go. I forgot to get any yesterday.

DaveVA78Chieftain

Only automatic transmission job I ever had done was at AAMCO over here in Winchester.
Not sure who to recommend.

Dave
[move][/move]


ClydesdaleKevin

dgapilot...also watch out for the torque converter, which you probably already know about if you are using a book to remove the transmission.  You want to get or fabricate some kind of a strap to hold it in place in the bell housing when you move the transmission back and lower it.  If it falls out, not only will it make a huge mess being filled with transmission fluid and all, but it can also get damaged if it falls on concrete.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

dgapilot

Finally after a year of procrastination, the transmission is out. Now to find someone to overhaul it!

Oz

1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

dgapilot

The cross member has 8 bolts that hold it in place. All but 2 were easy to get to. Once the bolts were out, it slides back far enough to drop the tranny. I was worried about being able to get the tranny out from under the Windcruiser with the basement storage, turned out there was no problem. Aside from working on gravel, it wasn't all that bad. To allow the transmission jack to roll, I put a piece of plywood down.

dgapilot

Dropped the transmission off with a guy in Suiteland last Friday. Supposed to be done this Friday. Hope he does a good job, I sure don't want to have to pullit again after I put it back!

ClydesdaleKevin

Outstanding!  Let us know how it all works out!   :)clap
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

GONMAD

Hello'   I just thought I'd chime in to advise you of a few things about the 400 turbo.

       
  • First of all, NOW is the time for a gearvendors under/overdrive! If it's within your pocketbook as this is about a $ 3000.00 average cost for the p-30 with ALL the hardware. These units are the greatest!
  • Secondly, DO get a brand new converter about 1200 stall preferably an RV unit like the one from TCI (I have one in my Windcruiser).
  • Thirdly, get a "LARGE" transmission cooler one WITH it's own fan & get a deep pan & pickup tube & possibly a Derale extra deep with cooling tubes! I use both.
  • Fourth,  If you are in a warm climate remove the lines going to the radiator cooler for the trans. This will ease the inherent overheating associated with these big blocks.
  • I also use a separate OIL cooler as well as being disconnected from the radiator.
I build 400 Turbo transmissions that take 900 HP using factory parts, RELIABLY I will mention. There are a LOT of mods used by different tranny builders, I was taught how to build them by the man that designed the turbo for GM & haven't burned or broken a 400 turbo in 30 years. Do some research & you'll never worry about your transmission for years to come.
All for now  As always C YA! GONMAD

dgapilot

Id love to put a gearvendors OD in, but it is way over my budget. I do plan on a bigger cooler and a temp gage so I can monitor the temps. I was also thinking of an external filter since it would also provide some more cooling surface and provide additional filter capacity. A new torque converter is being installed with the overhauled transmission. I'm going to pick up the tranny on Friday afternoon, but won't get a chance to install it for a couple weeks. (hopefully before the snow flies)
Thanks for your recommendations.
David

ClydesdaleKevin

Unless you do all your driving in the flatlands out west, don't even bother with overdrive.  I did the math, and unless you can get a used unit on the cheap, it would take 4 of your lifetimes to pay off the overdrive in gasoline savings unless you are almost always in the flats.  A 454 only puts out so much power, and when it comes to hills, you'd have to downshift anyway and keep her at 3000 RPM.  It just doesn't add up in the wallet.

That said, I will almost guarantee that I travel heavier on a consistent basis that anyone else on this forum, and pull more weight consistently.  A 35 foot Holiday Rambler Imperial Anniversary Edition with all the bells and whistles including solid oak cabinetry, a washer dryer, 6 deep cycle golf cart batteries, 2 AC units, an Onan generator, 60 gallons of gas, 120 gallons of fresh water, the capacity to hold 120 gallons of waste water, and now throw into the mix everything a fulltimer drags with them, and now add all the stuff we need for Renaissance Faires, like the tent and poles, stock, tools, etc., and then add the weight of our tow vehicle, a 92 Jeep Wranger Sahara.

All of that said, and with careful driving habits and changing the transmission fluid once a year, I did 2 simple and inexpensive mods to help keep the transmission cool and increase its longevity.  First, I installed an additional transmission cooler with its own fan...the stock one already had its own fan.  Then I wired in both sets of fans to a relay, and then to a lighted toggle on the dash.  When I see the transmission temperature gauge start to climb on long inclines, I hit the toggle switch and down drops the temperature.  I never hit higher temps than 150, period, anymore.  Up the Appalachians, the Ozarks, even the lower Rockies in the Southwest, no matter how long the climb my temps are staying in a modest range.  (Had an overheating issue this summer, no too bad, and it all had to do with a leaking upper radiator hose).

We change the transmission fluid once a year now.  We travel about 7K miles a year.  The transmission fluid looks as clean now as if new, never ever had a burnt smell, has no leaks, the transmission functions flawlessly, and we have just under 105K on the drivetrain.

If you have money to blow, get an overdrive.  If you have money to blow, get all kinds of accessories!  But if not, just keep it to 55, coast on the downhills, change your fluid often (ours has an aftermarket drain plug so its easy...you only have to breach the pan for a filter, which we did 4k miles ago and no leaks at all), install an additional trans cooler with its own fan, install a transmission temperature gauge if you don't have one, wire the fans to a manual switch, and you've just kept your transmission alive, regardless of terrain or weather, for years to come...on the cheap!

Kev


Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

GONMAD

Betcher NOT getting 13 miles per gallon & 9 towing a 30 foot racecar trailer. Not to mention lowering the RPM by approx. 800. this reduces engine NOISE & oil consumption as well as wear & heat (or overheating). Still it's fairly expensive at first but I have driven 30,000 without & 30.000 with a Gearvendors & I KNOW for a fact what the difference is. I used that same logic when I put off going to the unit & have regretted it for sure.  I have towed 18.000 pound trailers up & down the pike a bit. Besides I like new toys. Thanks for the rant !?

ClydesdaleKevin

LOL Gonmad!  If I could afford one, say if I found a good used one for 500 bucks, I'd jump all over it.  There are a lot of good things about the Gear Vendors unit and what it does, and it has a lot of benefits for your engine...but DANG they are expensive!

3300 bucks is a lot of dough for the upgrade.  Yes I'd get one in  hot minute if it was a grand or less, but while I could afford one if I budgeted it in carefully, there are so many other things to do with the money I couldn't justify the price...for us...at this point in time.

They are pretty darn neat though.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

GONMAD

You know I had a thought Uh Oh.    A business friend has a trans shop & told me he could build a 700R4 or a 4L80E that will take the heavy loads associated with RV's . Just move the crossmember accordingly, the only drawback is the driveshaft yolk on the 700 & no parking brake. (I haven't had one for years) The cost is comparable to a Heavy duty 400 to build & with the 700 you can manually overide the OD if needed. Then the 4L80E can be outfitted with a closed loop transpac for earlier RV's & come out cheaper than a Gearvendors. Just a thought.     Thanks   GONMAD

gadgetman

So many other things you could do with that money.


Yea !!! Like buy fuel LOL

ClydesdaleKevin

The Gearvendors unit is intriguing.  I really really do want one...lol!  But not at that price...at least not for a year or two at least...too many other expensive priorities right now, although the list is getting smaller.  We put on a lot of miles in our rig, and we live in it fulltime, so anything that makes the engine and transmission live longer between rebuilds is an idea that appeals to us, plus the savings in fuel of course.  But a 4000 dollar investment in a very neat gadget is beyond my ability to justify at this time...once you figure in installation, shortening the driveshaft, etc.

I wasn't shooting down your idea Gonmad...I love the idea...just can't justify the cost right now.  If you find one used though for a P30 with a 454 and the cable actuated parking brake on the end of the tranny, let me know!  I'll be all over it if the price is right!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

GONMAD


dgapilot

I'd love a gearvendors or a 4 speed tranny, but as yet I don't know how much I'll use the rig. I baught it a year ago and blew the tranny bringing it home. Finally got it out, and overhauled. Hope to get it back in in a couple weeks. I just need to make this motorhome mobile again, so we can see if camping is something we like.
David

ClydesdaleKevin

Yeah, I hear ya!  I think for a fulltimer that travels a lot of miles, the Gear Vendor unit would pay off, if not in fuel savings completely, then in a combination of fuel savings and less wear and tear on the engine and drivetrain...Gonmad has me convinced of that.  (Thanks a lot ya dork...lol...now I have to spend more money on stuff in the next year or so ;) ).

It would probably be a great thing to have also for non fulltimers that occasionally pull a lot of weight, like big boats and race cars and big heavy trailers...would make the hills easier and you could travel at modern highway speeds a lot easier.

For weekenders that don't go very far and only camp for fun during the season?  I wouldn't say it was a good idea at all.  No point.  Just like my composting toilet.  It's awesome for fulltimers and folks that boondock camp a lot...but if you only go to campgrounds and have full hookups, why bother, since they cost 900 bucks?

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.