Bottom edge of coach rot?

shoove · December 07, 2008, 08:16 PM

Sent: 10/14/2004 8:14 AM

Need help,

Apears that the very bottom edge of coach where the aluminum channel is or was attached to the siding (worst section is where aluminum channel is missing) is rotted out (I will try and take a picture) I noticed pieces of wood? more like crumbs of wood just falling on the ground when I would close the door or bump the outside wall in some spots. Has this happened to others? is there a way to repair? Is the coach going to fall off?

any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Mike

bboat101 · December 10, 2012, 07:51 PM

Sent: 10/14/2004 9:01 AM

On my '69, there is a 2x2 underneath there. Actually a 2x4 sliced in half. I removed the molding, pried out the staples, gently pulled back the skin, and put in a new one. I did epoxy coated the new one before installation so it doesnt rot out any more.
brian

shoove · December 10, 2012, 07:52 PM

Sent: 10/14/2004 3:04 PM

Thanks Brian,

I will attempt a repair this weekend do you think something like redwood will work? so it wont rot again rather than epoxy.

70winnie · December 10, 2012, 07:58 PM

Sent: 10/14/2004 7:13 PM

Everything from the stripe down on my 1970 is pretty much a rotted mess like you describe, and it's the only part of my remodel that I decided early on not to bother with at this time.

The only thing that worries me is, if you look underneath, you'll see that wherever there are 2" square steel pipes running side to side to hold up the floor, there are also pieces of 2" steel "L" jutting down parallel to the side walls, essentially holding the walls to the frame. The reason this worries me is, I gutted the inside of mine and didn't see ANYWHERE else where the side walls are being held to the undercarriage! Which says to me, if those bottom side panels are rotted, the entire cabin is being held down by its weight alone! And if a strong enough wind comes through, maybe the whole cabin would blow over?

During my rebuild, I added 2x4s in the walls in a few key places (and corresponding beams overhead) to add cross-strength. In retrospect, the one thing I wish I'd done differently was put those 2x4s in line with the previously-mentioned 2" L braces, running them all the way to the bottom of the side wall (instead of just to the floor) and then bolting them together.

WalterHynson1 · December 10, 2012, 08:04 PM

Sent: 10/14/2004 10:33 PM

At the floor level where the trim piece is there is a 2 x 4 running front to rear it is screwed to the floor, I used pressure treated 2 x 4 and plenty of liquid nails heavy duty to insure a good glue connection between the styrofoam and the wood also the door sag is caused by the 2 x 2 at the very bottom of the siding this is screwed to truck frame from the inside out again use pressure treated 2 x 2 and plenty of liquid nails heavy duty, the liquid nails provides waterproofing and a good seal to the styrofoam. WCH

This 2 x 4 is structural as it provides support for the walls and keeps them from falling off.

you are correct the first thing I did after a complete tearout is to replace the 2 x4 wall support, I used screws and plenty of liquid nails to ensure a good connection between the styrofoam walls and the floor also this ensures a watertight fit

bboat101 · December 10, 2012, 08:05 PM

Sent: 10/15/2004 8:37 PM

I don't see why not -unless redwood is expensive...
brian

Gizmostail1 · December 10, 2012, 08:08 PM

Sent: 11/8/2004 5:28 PM

I have the same problem in my '77 Brave D26rt and wonder if my body will fall off going down the road..

Is there a test ? maybe rocking it strongly to hear the cracking?
I would like to think there is a stronger tie down method than wood..

bboat101 · December 10, 2012, 08:09 PM

Sent: 11/8/2004 11:17 PM

You probably won't hear cracking, rotted wood won't make much of a sound! Anyway, your body probably won't fall off, it's more likely to cave in. If you notice a sudden, severe decrease in headroom, that's probably a good indicator.

WalterHynson1 · December 10, 2012, 08:12 PM

Sent: 11/9/2004 10:29 PM

simply replace the 2 x 4 material around the bottom edge of the floor. This is easily done from the exterior. Very easy and carefully remove and save the trim piece with the black leatherlike strip. This strip is nailed to the 2 x 4 thru the aluminum siding, then remove the lower strip of alum siding thus exposing the old 2 x 4 edge beam. Rremove the old screws. I used vise grips' Now, starting at one end, replace the old 2 x 4 with new use liquid nails heavy duty and new screws. Also coat each screw with glue and drive it in using a drill driver in the old holes. WCH

Slantsixness · December 10, 2012, 08:13 PM

Sent: 1/27/2005 10:52 PM

Anybody,

What I need is a little more detailed info, and if anybody has any pictures of how exactly you get to the center 2"x 4" behind the trim seam at the floor level in the coach. I don't see how it was that Walter Hinson (answered the old rot post) did this by his description. I'm concerned that when I go to tackle this rot, that the lower (brown on my Brave) panel is going to fall off? God knows there's not much left of the lower panels already! How do you get that trim off where it's screwed on the ends, when it's almost impossible on mine to even get the black strip out to expose the screws???

Injecting the entire coach seams with Epoxy is impractical (obviously!)

In-need-of-help-Tom

70winnie · December 10, 2012, 08:14 PM

Sent: 1/27/2005 10:59 PM

Tom,

I was able to access the dust that was formerly behind that strip very easily, by gutting my interior and removing the entire floor. I suspect you should be able to do the same.

Hope that helps,
Andrew

Slantsixness · December 10, 2012, 08:15 PM

Sent: 1/28/2005 5:36 PM

Unfortunately, all of my floor is almost perfect, except for some worn areas by the engine cover, so removing the floor is not an option for me.

Anybody done it from the outside?

denisondc · December 10, 2012, 08:17 PM

Sent: 1/31/2005 1:07 PM

We have some good pictorials and discussions of roof replacement, good pictorials and discussion of interior floor and wall replacement. It seems like you are the logical guy to write the chapter on Replacement Of The Vital Wall To Floor Connection. Our best wishes go with you.

Slantsixness · December 10, 2012, 08:18 PM

Sent: 1/31/2005 9:58 PM

Since it's concealed, and won't be in the cabin area, I think I'll use Pressure treated pine, should last 15-20 years (well, I hope it does!).

But as soon as we thaw out enough to work outside, I'll document it fully. So far, what checks I have made into doing it look promising, but I'm just worried about creasing the outer panels. It may require that I remove the lower section altogether (in sections). Just hope for some warm weather, and we'll all know soon enough!

I think I can, therefore I have to...!

Tom

74Brave4x4 · December 10, 2012, 08:20 PM

Greetings -I have similar rot behind the rear wheel of my '74 Brave, appears to be a 2x2 as BBoat101 described. Has anyone removed the siding from their coach to make a repair like this? I am curious where the plywood is seamed before I make a decision to remove the siding. Thanks in advance and I am glad to be a part of this site.

JDxeper · December 10, 2012, 08:20 PM

I replaced the wood at the bottom on my 68. The siding was not removed. just pulled back enough to get the old out and new wood in place.First I took off the bottom trim and wheel well trim, the trim that covers at the floor line(as listed before). Took out all the rusty screw and bolts. The siding is stapled at the bottom. I then just pulled out the siding enough to get to all the staples , screws and bolts. On driver's side, on the bottom I trimmed the foam insulation and put in a treated 2x4 for some added support. Then just reassembled with all stainless steel stuff. I used gorilla glue but it probably didn't need it. You have to get all old bolts and screws out or even( sawed off) so the boards fits snug, especially at the the floor line.

Oz · December 10, 2012, 08:24 PM

The panel seam is under the body side molding which runs horizontally along the the top edge of the wheel wells. This seam is a flat seam, not a linked seam like the panel above is wtih the top panel, just below the window line and that's one of he reasons why they get rot. That and and deteriorated sealing along the edges of the wheel well trim. If you use the message search.. .ahem... message search... use it... the message search... you will find a topic which already covers this. Also, we have the eyebrow Winnebago Coach eManual at an unbelievably affordable price in the store. And, it covers body panel replacement... imagine that! Amazing.

74Brave4x4 · December 10, 2012, 08:25 PM

Thanks for the info I appreciate it. I purchased the manual you described and look forward to shuffling through the information in it.

ibdilbert01 · December 10, 2012, 08:26 PM

QuoteI have similar rot behind the rear wheel of my '74 Brave, appears to be a 2x2 as BBoat101 described. Has anyone removed the siding from their coach to make a repair like this? I am curious where the plywood is seamed before I make a decision to remove the siding. Thanks in advance and I am glad to be a part of this site.

If your referring to the bottom of the exterior walls, there is a 2x2 that runs all the way around, just above the aluminum trim. I replaced all of mine, most of it just fell out with a littler coaxing with a paint scraper. To replace I used treated 2x2s and a ton of Mr Nails, popped a few staples in the skirting down low so the trim could cover it, then put the trim back on.

There isn't much plywood in the walls, at least on my year, its mostly Styrofoam.

eddie · December 11, 2012, 12:24 AM

LOL, PERFECT description of a problem!

Quote from: bboat101 on December 10, 2012, 08:09 PM
Sent: 11/8/2004 11:17 PM

You probably won't hear cracking, rotted wood won't make much of a sound! Anyway, your body probably won't fall off, it's more likely to cave in. If you notice a sudden, severe decrease in headroom, that's probably a good indicator.

HandyDan · December 11, 2012, 01:15 AM

All this talk about wood rot is really making me glad I bought a Holiday Rambler. W%

ClydesdaleKevin · December 11, 2012, 09:01 AM

LOL Dan! Me too! I had a lot of wood rot on the first RV, The Ark...not a lot on the Itasca, but still had to fix some of it along the bottom edge. Those days are long behind us now!

Kev

cosmic · February 04, 2013, 01:13 PM

Here is a couple of pictures of how to fix that wood problem with 2 sheets thick 3/4 inch plywood. it took me 2 days to change all the wood all the way around the rig. should be good for a while i hope. The wood goes up about 18 inches then its foam all the way up. the big screws holding everything screw into the floor under the body trim. mine is solid as a church now.

Pulled out the window trim and caulked underneath seamed to work for now.
The roof from what it looks like to me. guy before me put a seamless sheet of aluminium over the hole roof. bent all over the sides and then installed a drip edge. i check and replace the caulking where needed every season so I'm not really worried about a leak all that much.