Accessing Thetord Aqua Magic Flush Valve

[biggrock1]

Sent: 4/17/2005 6:16 PM

Could anyonehelp me with this dilemma? I need to know how to remove the toilet or at least enough of it to access the valve operated by the pedal.

(Thetford Aqua Magic)  Thanx in advance
Howie

[Oz]

Sent: 4/17/2005 6:56 PM

Disconnect the water hoses and unscrew the closet bolts which hold the toilet to the floor, removing the toilet. 
Turn it upside down.
Remove the 6 screws which hold the pedal mechanism assembly to the hopper.
Lift out mechanism and remove the hose clamps.
Use the proper message board and put the nature of your issue in the title
- Thetford Aqua-Sob

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Sent: 4/17/2005 8:20 PM

Not sure if yours is the one that requires this but the acessing the closet bolts can be a pain.  One is acessed from the hole where the pedal is.  The other requires you to remove a plug in the top of the seat area (left rear side when facing toilet) then use a socket attached to very long extension (12-18 inches).

Dave 

[biggrock1]

Sent: 4/17/2005 10:28 PM

Will I need to replace base unit? I read in a 2002 post that if the leak is not in the line then the base needs to be replaced.

[DanD2Soon]

Sent: 4/18/2005 12:31 AM

Just one man's opinion Howie, but I'd just replace it. After fiddle-farting around for nearly two years with a thirty year old toilet, ordering parts, fixing leaks, etc. - ANYTHING to keep from tackling the DREADED Thundermug - I finally took mine out (like the guys said 2 closet bolts and 1 water connection) and carried it under my arm to my RV dealer... You know - to make sure I got an exact replacement - taking the old part with you is the surest way...

(Meanwhile back at the ranch, Mrs-D scrubbed the lav floor like it had never been scrubbed before - after all there was nothing in the way.)

Sue, at Mr. Lincoln's RV in Springfield, IL, smiled ear-to-ear as she teased me about how long it had taken me to get around to doing it right, relieved me of a $100 bill, and held the door as I carried the nifty little box out to the car.

Two new closet bolts came with the new unit and that's all there is to replacing the dang thing - once you've got the old one out, you're more than halfway done! (for me, it took about an hour, total - not including the drive to town- Mrs spent longer on the floor than I did on the stool) I did put new teflon tape on the water connection, but even that was simpler than the original - couldn't believe I had procrastinated sooo long about such a simple job - older aint necessarily wiser. Ahh, such a throne!

Later,
DanD

[biggrock1]

Sent: 4/18/2005 7:24 AM

I get your point but there are other things that are being replaced too like a new converter that I expect tomorrow and probably 2 new Trojan 105s.
It all adds up.
Howie

[DanD2Soon]

Sent: 4/18/2005 11:03 AM

Howie,

I DO understand, we all do here. When we total up the costs in time & money & emotions we've spent on these old girls, most all of us could be driving far newer, fancier, maybe more troublefree rigs. But, where's the challenge or the satisfaction? Sob calls it "preserving a piece of Americana" - he's right for lots of reasons.

Every once in a while, MrsD & I mention "upgrading", but truthfully we're comfortable with and proud of what we have and very seldom see a newer or bigger rig that really makes us green with envy, so an upgrade may never happen. And anyway, my "To Do List" for the 2SOON keeps getting longer all by itself - I sure don't need to add another line called "shopping for a new one."

Enough of my soapbox - Hang in there, Howie!
DanD 

[denisondc]

Sent: 4/18/2005 12:28 PM

I think having an old one is still cheaper (in money) than having one only 10 or 12 years old -- and I dont think a 10 year old motorhome will be trouble free either. I dont count the time I spend, because I enjoy it; usually anyway. Its emotional therapy that is lots cheaper than a psychiatrist, and my wife doesnt have to worry about where I am when she cant see me.

Every vintage Packard, Pierce Arrow and Duesenberg, and every Model A Ford roadster that exists today, SURVIVED because someone could have scrapped it and gotten a newer car - but held on to it, inspite of the advice they got from the general population.

Most people are merely consumers of their vehicles. We are long term care-givers to our vintage motorhomes.

[biggrock1]

Sent: 4/18/2005 7:13 PM

Not only is it cheaper to keep the old throne, it's also an original part.

[lockman]

Sent: 4/21/2005 2:05 AM

We have had our thetford out many times, not that it should have needed removal that many times, but we were not the best toilet mechanics yet. In principle removal is very simple and took us ultimatly less than 5 minutes. The secert for us was a Sears Craftsman rachet wrench. The racheting box end was easy to slip over the upright brass studs onto the brass nut. The smaller gear teeth made the limited swing area slow but not much of a challenge.

Front stud was accessible and visable througth the pedal hole in the front, and to one side. Rear stud a little more interesting, long arms help, was througth the access hole at the rear and again, to one side.

Using a flashlight and mirror the first time, and by leaning over the top and down, you can reach the back easy enough. After that it was just by feel each time. The water fitting was more fun, it was an odd size and all plastic and one of the low points of the system.

If there is standing water in the supply lines it wants to drain out here as soon as undone. We ultimatly mickey moused a cap to put on so we didn't have to totaly drain the system each time we removed the toilet. The real reason for the many removals was
#1 never worked on a RV toilet before and didn't know the various but simple systems
#2 (the big one) we replaced each part one at a time not realizing that if one rubber part is bad most likely all are bad. Disassembly was fairly simple and no force was ever needed.

Some finesse on some rusted pedal valve bolts and screws was required, and hose clamps in ackward places were the worst problems encountered. The rubber parts that we ultimatly replaced were as follows. Foam ? rubber seal between the base mounting ring and toilet, and pedal valve seal kit, and bowl slider seal.  The hidden one!!

There is valve up under the seat in a bracket attached to the seat hinge assembly. Not sure what is was called, may be a vacuum break or poppet valve? Just a simple little mushroom shaped  piece of rubber that if worn causes it to leak when water is flowing during flushing. The ultimate killer was not knowing the toilet is made in two pieces and comes apart and where the funnel shaped bowl joins the stand pipe there is another hidden seal. That one leaks when you fill the bowl with standing water. Parts were acquired at various local RV shops.

The best was to take the old part with us as parts were not always listed for our old unit. We just went through the Thetford parts hanging on the racks till one looked about right for our model. Many current models were suitable for piror years as well. Another time saver was  we finially rigged the toilet up on a workmate with a water supply so we could test each time we replaced something or were looking for a leak. Total parts were approx. $35.00 and the experience PRICELESS!!.

[biggrock1]

Sent: 4/21/2005 7:53 AM

Thanx lockman and everyone else. I sounds like I am going to have a ball. I installed new pex water lines under the sink and while I was in there I installed a valve just outside the wall where the water line for the toilet enters the bathroom
so there shouldn't be too much water. It doesn't leak too much and i am concentrating on electrical system.
Thanx again

Howie

[HeavyHaulTrucker]

Sent: 5/14/2005 1:06 AM

Thanks for the discussion, guys... it helped me determine that it would be easier to just replace my old AquaMagic V (with a shot water valve) with a new one.  I found a new one down at Jack Sizemore RV, but it was called a "La Toilette", for less than $100.  Once I got it home, it took me a grand total of 45 minutes to install it.

I actually like the looks of it better than the original.  And it actually works!

John

[biggrock1]

Sent: 5/17/2005 7:57 AM

I think that you came out ahead in that deal. It cost me $63.00 for the valve which turned out to be the wrong one. there was no place to attach the spring for the pedal that operates the valve so I had to attsch it to the same location that the slide to empty the toilet is located so now I get a boing when I flush the toilet.
At least it doesn't leak. It would have been easier to in stall new toilet with all the time and effort involved.

[moonlitcoyote]

working on mine now, but the bolt is turning in the floor, any ideas on how to get the nut off?

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

The head of the bolt is oblong shaped that is basically a wedge fit under the lip of the mounting plate.  Lift up on the toilet in order to bind the head of the bolt.


Dave

[moonlitcoyote]

Thank you Dave