No Fuel to Engine 1979 29ft Chevy Itasca

Started by Trinil1, February 09, 2014, 11:07 AM

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Trinil1

Hello all,

I have had this RV for about 3 years. Ran great for a long time, but I let it sit for about 6 - 7 months without starting and now I'm not getting fuel to the Carb.

I have disconnected the line at the forward fuel filter and tried to siphon, but create a vacuum in tube.
After reading, it looks like there's only a mechanical fuel pump, although it looks to me like there's an electric pump at the carb.

Any ideas?

Thanks for your help.

Oz

Hello and welcome,

It sure seems these vintage RVs don't like to just sit and get no attention, sometimes.  Fortunately, this isn't an uncommon issue.  However, it can be a little more involved if you do, in fact, have a mechanical and an electric fuel pump.  You'll definitely need to determine that first.

I did a message search and you might want to take a look at these topics:

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,531.msg531.html#msg531

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,5817.msg21824.html#msg21824

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,3161.msg7131.html#msg7131

If you find you DO have an electric fuel pump, there are at least 3, good topics about figuring out if it's not working.  Here's one:

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,575.msg575.html#msg575


1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

DaveVA78Chieftain

1. Original P30 only had the mechanical pump.  Many people have added an external electric pump back at the tank area in order to prevent vapor lock
2. There is fuel pickup sock in the tank that could be clogged.  Requires draing the fuel and dropping the tank to access.
3. Rubber fuel lines at the tank crack with age.  Like a hole in a soda straw, this results in the fuel pump sucking air not fuel.
4. If I recall correctly, there is also a small filter in the fuel line at the carb.

Dave
[move][/move]


Trinil1

Thank you all for this input. I will look at the links and see what I can figure out.


Trinil1

OK, after reading through the links it looks like I have a mechanical fuel pump and Dave is thinking along the lines I was in that the pick up sock may be clogged. I was thinking it was a check valve stuck.


How difficult is it to drop the tank? I have no way of getting this big boy lifted up.

Mr. T

The mechanical fuel pumps have a tendency to wear out after 25 years or so. Before you drop the tank, replace the pump.  This will probably solve most of your problems.  If it doesn't, you will have replaced a crucial part for little money and effort.


Don T.

Froggy1936

T1 You could gravity feed the carb from a can . With a hose to the line going into carb. Make sure you have a catch can for any fuel that may come from the tank . Then you can warm it up and drive it up onto stacked 4x4 under rear wheels This will get it high enough to pull the tank after you drain it, Siphon or whatever ,Do not try dealing with a tank that has any substantial amt of fuel in it, They become unmanageable on a floorjack The voice of experience  Frank
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

Trinil1

Thanks again for the input.
Mr. T, the only challenge I have with the MP replacement is when I disconnect the fuel line upstream of the Engine and try to siphon though it, I get a vacuum on the hose.
If anyone know's if I shouldn't be trying that, because it doesn't mean anything, let me know and I'll try the pump replacement.

ClydesdaleKevin

First replace the mechanical fuel pump, replace the fuel filters, and do yourself a favor and replace as much of the rubber line you can get to without dropping the tank.  Rubber fuel line gets porous with age and you start sucking air instead of fuel.

That SHOULD solve your problems.  If it doesn't, you'll have to drop the tank and replace the strainer, but there is a good chance there isn't a strainer in there...not all of them had it installed.

If you have to drop the tank, replace the rest of the fuel line that you couldn't get to in the first place without dropping the tank, and then do yourself an EXTRA huge favor, and install an electric fuel pump back by the tank with a regulator and wire it in through a relay to a 12 volt ignition source.  This will save you a lot of grief from vapor lock later on.  Make sure the fuel pump you use is for carburetors, not fuel injection...it produce less than 6 psi.  You can get Facet brand fuel pumps at NAPA that are preset to certain psi ratings, which eliminates the need to complicate things with a regulator.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

legomybago

You could feed the fuel pump from a gas can, and see if she runs..if it does, then you know the problem is "behind" you....
Never get crap happy with a slap happy pappy

TheSportsmanDodger

My 73 dodge had that issue, if your operatinga mechanical pump you might want to blow air and suction out the whole system

In this order,

Blow/suction  tank

Blow out fuel filter from both sides

Blow/ suction  the fuel pump inlet and outlet,

Then remove your line to your carb suction it up to the top til it comes out.

After that turn your key bloop its alive.

And suction all the gas up through the carb line til it comes out.

Worked for my rv.

The term your looking for is called drain back common and uncommon. Daily drivers don't drain back.

My method just simulates cleaning the system by using air.

Anyone can blow air with a hose into the tank, when your clogs where ever they may b pop. You will know it because upon blowing your mouth will lose pressure and resistance thus telling you the blockage is gone.

Trinil1

OK everybody, It's running!
Thank you again for your attention and suggestions and patience with this newbie.
Turns out everyone was right. It was the fuel pump.
It took 1 hour to remove the old pump and 2 hours to install the new.
2 things on the re-install
1- there is a plug right where the plunger that gives some people trouble is. I removed that and was able to push the plunger up with a screwdriver very easily.
2- The Engine needs to be rotated (I did it by turn the ignition for 1/2 second) so that the plunger can be pushed 97% into the block.
When I did those 2 things, the plunger stayed in place without anymore manipulation, even when I put the fuel pump in and out twice.


Thank you all again.

Stripe

Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

TheSportsmanDodger

omg, it coughed out its tank someone CALL  THE AUTO PARTS STORE ( CLEAR!) *zirrrr* lol

TheSportsmanDodger

2 hours woah rusty bolts much? only takes me 30 minutes or less to change a fuel pump not unless your talking about the one at the tank.

ClydesdaleKevin

Just an alert to everyone from some folks I met on the ChevyK5Forum...including my new friend Mel who helped us work on STEEV.

Apparently, quality control is WAY down on mechanical fuel pump manufacture, even from AC Delco.  Its not uncommon now for a mechanical pump to put out WAY too much fuel pressure.  Mel went through 3 AC Delcos before the 4th had a psi of 4-6 psi.  The first three had pressures from 12-14.  Been happening a lot apparently.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

legomybago

a lot of our QC has been crap on parts the last while...it's a shame.
Never get crap happy with a slap happy pappy