What's the starting procedure for a 73 Brave?

[class87]

From: tatkin  (Original Message)
Sent: 4/9/2006 10:06 AM

Ok , this is what is going on, I am just wondering if this is normal.

1. Pull the choke.
2. 3 gas pedal pushes.
3. Start.
4. After a minute, push the choke back in.

It must take ? 5 minutes before it is ready to be driven.

Is this normal ? It is like high 40's around here today when I started it.



From: LJ-TJ
Sent: 4/9/2006 10:16 AM

Ya..... That's about how it works for my 75. Couple pumps of the gas....pull the choke.......fire it up......waite two or three minutes let her warm up a bit put her in gear and away we go. Get on down the road abit waite for her to warm up a bit more......put the choke in and happy trails.



From: DampDude007 S
ent: 4/9/2006 10:53 AM

Yep,my 73 takes about 10 pumps,choke halfway,then when it starts push the choke back in, I let it idle til the temp gauge is straight up in the middle then she is ready to go go.



From: denisondc
Sent: 4/9/2006 2:23 PM

If mine was driven in the last couple of days; I perform 1 or 2 pumps on the pedal, pull the manual choke out past 1/2 way, and it starts very quick after I turn the ign key to start. I push the choke in partway so it runs smoother and with better reading on the vacuum gauge. I can start out right away, if I am gentle on the gas. If I push the pedal too far when the engine is cool, it will cough or backfire. I push the choke in all the way when it gets into high gear. After running 5 minutes its happy with anything I do.
If it hasnt been started in a month of more; I lift the double passenger seat out of the way, remove the engine cover and air cleaner. I pour fuel down the float chamber vent (easy with a Holley carb). Then I do the same as I described above, and its running.
I watch for leaks, sparks, smoke and flame, and check the transmission fluid - since I know the tranny leaks fluid slowly from the shifter shaft seal. I make sure a fire extinguisher is handy when I do this.



From: Slantsixness
Sent: 4/10/2006 7:43 AM

My 72 D20:

In 20-50 degree weather:
Pump gas twice.
Start
Wait 3 min for the choke to open. (stops sputtering/ tap accelreator to come off Cold idle to curb idle)

Drive away.

50-100+ degree weather:
Pump gas once.

Drive away.

If the original electric chokes are properly adjusted and maintained, there is no need or use for a manual choke.
 
Tom 



From: denisondc
Sent: 4/10/2006 1:12 PM

Another thought about starting the engine. i understand you bought it from somene in Colorado Springs. Thats 6000 ft up. How far above seal level do you live? If the carb was jetted for high altitude, it could be cold-blooded when starting. Could it run lean enough at low altitude to make the exhaust manifolds run hotter - with greater chance of warping when you have the gas pedal near the floor??
Would the prior owner be able to tell you about any carburetor rebuild?

As far as electric chokes; My experience is that the spiral bimetallic thermal element ages. After 20 years a new spiral might make it work much better, if you rebuild the carburetor yourself. I would hope a rebuilt carb would have a new element in it.



From: Slantsixness
Sent: 4/10/2006 1:38 PM

Indeed, Dave is right, the Bi-metal does age, and even "New Old Stock" Bi-metal choke replacements have a tendency to be bad out of the box. New manufactured Bi-metal choke springs are the best choice. The trick here is, this is a "similar enough" spring used in almost every GM car with the "lean burn" electric choke, also the edelbrock and holley electric chokes as well. Just buy the repair kit and only use the spring itself (it does mount "backwards" from the GM application, though on 2bbl carbs).
Adjusting Electric Chokes properly is an art, and not something most people will just get right on the first try. But it can be done, but it'll probably take 3 or four tries before it works right. (sometimes even more than that!)

Tom