1979 Dodge Diplomat (like Apollo?), 26' Class A, 440, Refurbish

[sasktrini]

After over a year of trying to get my motorhome repaired and driven home, I had to resort to other methods. 




My initial diagnosis when I bought it for $500 was that the typical ignition system parts (ballast resistor, etc) had failed, and that for $40 in parts, I'd be driving home.  Then after noticing coolant in the air cleaner, and not getting the engine able to low idle, I hoped head gaskets would correct the situation.  Unfortunately, the heads are cracked.  So here I am.  Add on $600 for the tow and parts I had bought for the repair.


While stranded in a farmyard an hour out of town, I've had to cope with ticks and mice... am very happy it's home.  The last few weeks, it seems that all mice have vacated back at the old place, and I haven't seen any ticks in a while.

At my buddy's next to my brother's 1968 Fargo A100.



The plan is interior repairs and upgrades for now, and deal with the engine in winter and spring.

Up until now, I have sorted out some confusion with my battery bay (in a very old thread), have plans for a 3000W 12V inverter and 150W solar panel, electric fireplace, and have started some of the clean up of shoddy repair work (ceiling and wall panels, cabinets not securely fastened).  I'll use this thread to post more summary and results info, but will start new threads for specific mini-projects (ie. inverter or solar install).

Got the inverter for $150 plus shipping.     Had to get a fuse and cabling done.  Tested it out with my TV just fine.  Where the RV is currently parked, I'm too far from an AC outlet, so this was a great find!



Here is my $10 115V fireplace that only required a thermal fuse and a switch to get the heater element functioning again...  I plan to build this into an entertainment cabinet behind the passenger seat.



Enjoy

[sasktrini]

It's been a while since I've done any posting of photos, so can I just ask (confirm) that my photobucket settings do in fact make the four photos from my initial post visible publically?

Thanks for your feedback.

My first mini projects over the next couple weeks will involve the front third of the cabin... repairs to ceiling and wall panelling and structure, replace dinette with a gaucho / futon on drivers side, storage / TV / fireplace cabinet on the passenger side, new overhead cabinets.

[Lefty]

I see 4 pictures in the first post.
1: Rv hooked up to a white tow truck
2:RV next to a Dodge D-100
3:Power Inverter
4: Cast Iron electric heater

[sasktrini]

Much obliged, Lefty 

[sasktrini]

So I've been pretty busy lately.  Made an 8-hour round trip to get some cheap cylinder heads "as is", bought a salvaged overhead bunk and gaucho frame, am working on the wiring for the solar panel, and have done the demolition on the front half of the motorhome's ceiling fixtures and sagging panelling.  So soon I will have sub-project topics for my solar install, bunk install and my ceiling rebuild.
The interesting thing with my ceiling rebuild which I have started has me encouraged and I want to describe what I'm doing.

Firstly, after removing the ceiling panels, I have learned that there is steel 1X2" framing.  So for where I want to add reinforcement / surfaces to attach structure, I've laminated 1X4" spruce (which is really 3/4") with 1/8 panelboard on each side cut to 3 and whatever inches wide.  To add them to my framing, I'm using cabinet maker's pocket joints... I bought a little jig such as this:

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/400-3188/pocket_hole_jigs

I have to mark on the steel framing where each predrilled hole in my wood lines up and predrill the steel frame, but then my framing addition goes in real easy and flush.  I only have wood screws, but it's possible that steel screws would not require predrilling the steel frame, and the process would be that much faster.  Honestly, this jig is a great tool!

Another thing that I'm doing, to minimize ceiling seams, is using full 4X8' hardboard running lengthwise down the middle of the coach.  It leaves 22" on the sides, so I will hide the seam with the front edge of my ceiling cabinets or alternatively a plank of stained oak or something.  This is instead of running the panel the width of the motorhome, and requiring repairs to involve removing cabinets or trimming the panel around them.

So I'm running my additional framing 22" on center from each wall to support cabinets and edges of ceiling panels, as well as replacing rotted braces around vent openings.  As well, I have to relocate my TV antenna so I can install my solar panel where the wire run to my batteries will be as short as possible.  Going to re-route AC wiring, and adding DC wiring for a 12V vent fan I grabbed for the kitchen area.

That's the latest.  Should have pictures and new posts in a week.  But I couldn't wait, and share about the pocket hole jig in case others were fighting with frame repairs.  Besides, these jigs can make it possible to use less wood in our interior plans.  I hope it gives some of you ideas.

[M & J]

 

[legomybago]

Those Creg jigs are awesome. Use one of those and some wood glue, your in business

[acenjason]

That's a snapy heater

[sasktrini]

Here are some photos to show the frame reinforcement in action, and the solar install… I've had a few good days of effort put in.  It's still a work in progress.


I tore down the top cabinets in the front half of the motorhome so that I could tackle the sagging roof.  Since I plan to reconfigure here anyway, what better time to dig in?  Here is what I found… rotten panelling covered up by other panelling, with delaminated insulation layer and the front outer plywood half cut away and the rest rotten.  Even a few 1X4" planks sandwiched in there somehow.








Added most of the supports I have planned, as I described before, and have most of the insulation back in place after trimming.  See the beauty of pocket joints?  Everything is flush and screws are hidden, but the panelling / frame / insulation sandwich will be with minimal gaps!  I'm really happy with the result… that pocket jig is one of my favourite tools!   The large structure I added behind the passenger seat is to accommodate relocating the TV antenna (you can barely see the stem for the handle that would raise and lower the antenna sticking through the plywood), as it's where I want the solar panel to be.





So I could use some pointers on the proper adhesive to get for hanging the ceiling panels… I'm thinking it has to be a styrofoam-safe contact cement that I can roll on or brush on… tubes of liquid nails aren't going to be aggressive enough.


Up top, I have much to do, as many seams and fixtures are leaky.  Hopefully I get time before winter to repair the plywood under the aluminum roof.  But first, It was imperative to mount and wire my solar panel.  For the shortest wire run, I want the panel above the entrance, as my battery bank is in the stepwell.  The antenna is in the way, and really nowhere near where I want to locate a TV anyway.





I have a lot of holes to seal up still, but since I still have to seal up the vents and stuff to, I'm waiting until I have done all the work on the roof that I plan, which should include the plywood at the front.  I repaired the antenna last night… it's not as kinked as before.  Also, the kitchen vent (next to the solar panel) is getting replaced with a 12V fan vent, like are located in bathrooms.  I want to be able to deal with humidity rapidly, so I salvaged the second fan unit.  So all the vents will be pulled, have new butyl tape installed, and lap sealant applied.  There is so much sealant on everything up here, and it's all cracked… ugh.  But so far, I'm liking my progress.





Finally, a shot of the solar install… The installation instructions don't recommend mounting the controller in the battery bay, but it has a temperature sensor on it that should read similar to the condition the batteries are in… it controls the charging based on temperature.  Since I don't have another suitable or comparable place to mount it, I went ahead.  A pair of wires from the controller to the battery (including the fuse), and another pair of wires from the controller to the panel, which in my case is a straight shot up from the floor to the ceiling.  It was reading 13V most of the day, despite that I've been using my inverter and running saws and drills the last few days… my batteries could not be "full", but I'm encouraged that the panel is doing it's job!





Once I get the ceiling / roof done, and a bed put back in, I'll work on my fireplace / TV cabinet!  I am looking forward to seeing the fireplace in action in the motorhome.  I have been using it at home on cool nights, and it's working like a charm!  $20 purchase and repair… another small victory I'm enjoying in this journey to RV pleasure!  Thanks!

[sasktrini]

Been a while since I updated.  Kept plenty busy though.  It's been pretty cold, and I've only spent one night out working on the RV.  Unfortunately, that particular night, I had used my DC reserves on power tools, and couldn't run a space heater overnight.  Tells me that I need to add a generator to the equation with the solar.  Also tells me that getting my LP furnace working is more critical than interior remodelling.  In the last couple weeks, I've stripped out the closets cabinets and bunks, and have yet to work on the bathroom walls and tall enclosure containing the fridge and furnace.  Reason for this is unencumbered access to replace all ceiling panels.  I've also decided that I want to redo the entire floor with sheet vinyl (even or especially under the cabinets, where water has affected bare wood subfloor).

Here's the before shot of my drivers side, including the kitchen cabinets that hide the fresh water tank, hot water tank, water pump, wheel well, moving down to the furnace and fridge, and then the washroom.



Under there, I have found damaged wheel wells that would give rodents access, stangely-routed drain lines (that prevent proper servicing of the furnace, and infact reveal improper furnace installation), no insulation around the fridge or over the wheel well (passenger side too, including the generater compartment), a furnace that won't light, furnace duct that's pinched all weird.

From the front, since I removed the dinette in favour of a sofabed, I plan to move the fresh water tank about six inches to the right to improve furnace airflow and relocate the water pump between the tank and wheel well, under a redesigned kitchen counter.  It's a little fuzzy, but the pump and other plumbing have dictated the shape of the cabinet, and I think the space can be better used.



Under the fridge, here's where I removed the furnace from.  I'm choked how the plumbing is routed... along the front of the cabinet under the front of the tub and to the floor.  The reason...  I had to cut the lower cabinet to get the furnace out!



Anyway, I can fix some of the ghetto P.O. wiring, replace the thermocouple, and have heat once again.  Also, the front cover for the furnace was never installed because of that drain line.  So I will rectify this.  I even found that the ductwork was pinched in between the fresh water tank and the kitchen cabinet.  Not that it mattered without the cover installed. 

I tore the cover off the tub as I continued through to the bathroom (and to remove the last heat duct).  I guess this is why the plumbing was routed this way... bad hole for the the plumbing to pass through the floor... another mouse doorway.  Anyway, I need to fill that, and possibly re-route the drainlines to wrap around the wall.  Ideally, I can also drop the tub for more headroom!




So yes... gutting, working furnace and insulation are my top priorities.  Then I'll rebuild the interior.

One other thing I have going on (in my gutting the passengers side) is that I've relocated some wiring under the floor in order to remodel the bunks as improved storage (a tiny walk-in closet).  I have a lot going on with the mounting of electrical panels back there... photos will come when I cross that bridge.

[sasktrini]

The gutting continues.  For some reason, as I contemplate rebuilding a part of the RV, I'm compelled to continue gutting.  I guess I keep finding stuff that worries me.


I found saturated plywood under my fresh water tank.  The wall seems "soft" too, as there is obvious panel delamination.  So what's the point of building cabinets if I'm going to have to remove it later for floor, ceiling and wall repair?  So I decided I will start from scratch… rip it all out!  There are a number of factors…


1) can move the fresh water tank over enough to put the water pump against the wall between the tank and wheel well, allowing for me to make a straight kitchen cabinet (instead of the "L shaped factory one)?


2) proper installation of the furnace… can I install it flush with the fridge so the access panel does its job?  Can I route the drain
line in behind it, instead of where the current routing obstructs furnace removal?


3) The bathroom has plumbing and wiring mysteries hidden under the tub, and badly needs to be cleaned.  Can the tub mounting accommodate rerouting the drain? There was evidence of mice in the bathroom, so what is hiding behind the walls?


Rebuilding will be much easier if I do it right.  Hence the decision to strip it all down.  At this point, I only have the bathroom framed out, as well as the framing at the rear cap (a vertical panel wall and ledge nestled in the angled rear cap).


Two answers I have determined is that


1) I can relocate the fresh water tank and pump.
2) I can change the placement of the furnace in order to route the drain along the outer wall.  I need to extend the fresh-air ducting to make up for the new gap further out from the exterior wall, but the hot exhaust pipe is long enough.


When I pulled out the tub, all the wiring is tacked down to the floor, and runs to the rear cap through crudely-cut holes.  The same kind of "workmanship" is used to plumb the water to the shower faucet.  The gaps would easily be infiltrated by mice.  Oh, all the ABS drain lines were cemented.  To top it off, the tiny wooden frame elevating the tub only extended the rear half of the tub, with the drain trap supporting the front!  I think that ideally, I will add styrofoam to support the length of the tub, and create a recess for the trap in order to mount it closer to the floor (thinking shower headroom).  While it's out, I think I need to have the tub checked for cracks and properly repaired.


I notices when I pulled the tub, the wall would heave with gusts of wind… I can't deny that the walls are badly delaminated.  The bathroom had been significantly water damaged…  The P.O. covered the existing panelling again  instead of repairing actual damage.


I ripped up the filthy vinyl tiles in the bathroom, and proceeded to  tear into the cabinet that wraps around the rear wall of the bathroom.  When I lifted up on the countertop, I found the cavity stuffed with fibreglass insulation complete with tunnels and mouse scat.  That's the end of my weekend so far!


For the last day of my long weekend, I will remove the toilet, cut out the drain lines, and finish removing the remaining rear cap and wall structures.


The rebuilding will continue with
1) plugging holes in the floor and replacing rotted wood along the outer wall
2) lay down vinyl flooring wall-to-wall, front-to-back
3) finish panelling the ceiling
4) replace wall panels


The goal… a clean insulated shell in the next seven days.  It's relatively warm locally right now… maybe one more warm weekend before it starts looking like winter again.


Going to post a pointed question or two in other topics that will hopefully help me with mini-issues… drain fittings for RV sinks, tubs and toilets.

[brians1969]

I don't know if this is been mentioned but be sure to have a good working CO detector especially if the furnace is original. The heat exchanger is just thin sheet metal. 

If it is a suburban, I know they sell extension tubes for thicker walls.

[sasktrini]

Thanks Brian… Yeah, there are no gas alarms in the rig.  Definitely the time to get them.  Today, the RV is completely gutted!  Here's a look at yesterday.





Today, my nephew and I tore into the bathroom, wall panelling (which is mostly delaminated), and the enclosure in front of the rear cap. 





The fibreglass insulation stuffed in the rear cap had mice at one time, so I cleaned it all out.  I will rebuild a separate cavity with 3/4" plywood to support the rear window.  I was pleased to see steel wall joists, but was surprised how little support there was at the rear.  Any supports in the wall, like nailing surfaces for the access panels for the water heater and fridge, float… they aren't tied into the steal framing!  So the whole drivers side wall is delaminated. 





I'll screw in some supports like I did in the roof, to support where the tub screws into the wall for example.  It looks like someone slipped in the shower, and pushed the whole wall out a couple inches away from the frame!  I'm gonna fix that!


Shopping list for Wednesday… Liquid Nails, vinyl sheet flooring front to back!


It's funny… now that it's gutted, it looks like less work to do what I want (instead of having the whole thing implode on me!

[sasktrini]

Bought a used generator ($400) yesterday, as well as a couple sheets of pre-cut sheet vinyl flooring ($120 with adhesive).

[PwrWgnWalt]

Lookin' good, Corey!


I know what you mean by 'easier' to get stuff out of the way and do it right.  It'll be just right when you get done, and "new"!   


Keep the pictures coming...


- Walt

[sasktrini]

Thanks!  My brother offered to help in the morning with the flooring (which includes moving all the clutter out!).  I got the staples pulled from the rear half tonight and plugged some obsolete wiring holes (generator, tv coax, other bad routing).


Tonight, I finished buttoning up that rear wall with 3/4" plywood.  Mice will have to be real hungry to get in to the human area.  Upon closer examination of the rear cap, it is only sealed at the floor with soft packing foam… I guess so that when they installed the rear cap, it would accommodate irregularities in the shape of the floor.  Guess what?  I'm thinking that a 2" gap stuffed with chunks of foam is not enough to keep vermin out, and beyond what the factory should have allowed for tolerances.  This should keep them out now, better than the excessive number of wiring and water line holes drilled through the previous stick & panel structure.


Beefing up the rear corners…  The driver's side has an access panel for the shore power / generator outlet.



All insulated and tied together…



The last picture doesn't show it, but I've installed electrical boxes through the plywood for the gen socket and the converter cable.  The only wiring running behind the plywood is the chassis wiring for the taillights, etc.  All of the other wiring will remain in the passenger compartment, not the mouse compartment. 

[Froggy1936]

Hi I dont know if you are concerned with useing the rig in freezing weather or not But if you move the water pump make sure it is getting some heat (against an outside wall it will freeze) Also if locateing the furnace next to the fridge Add as much insulation between them as possible Three way fridges do not like any heat source next to there sides or bottom . Good luck on doing it right dont forget insulation as much as possible . And sealing all critters out is very important . They love insulation from wireing !  Frank

[sasktrini]

I am very much concerned about winter use.  With the water pump, the main weak spot is the wheelwells.  When I box them in and insulate them, I think the in-cabinet temperature will go up. The walls beside the fridge were uninsulated too, so I hope that insulating the fridge cabinet will help (Why didn't they get insulated?  They have fresh air vents, basically making the fridge compartment an exterior box).  The fridge only rested on 3/4" plywood shelf, directly above the furnace from the factory.  I never contemplated insulating the shelf as well, but I could.  There is about 8" clearance between the furnace and the shelf.  Think that may be enough?  On the wiring, I'm going to be able to run most of the wiring through the interior structures… minimal under the floor.  Even my generator plug and converter cable will be run through the interior instead of the rear cap like before.  It will be much more difficult for a mouse to get in to my living space.

Today's progress?  I finally moved the generator into its cubby, primed the entire floor with Kilz, and got the front 12' of flooring put down! 








Tomorrow, I'll finish the flooring and start repairing the outer walls (unless I have help, and then I'll work on ceiling panels… I only have the front third replaced).

[sasktrini]

Patched the grey tank inlet and floor before finishing the vinyl flooring today… ALL DONE!





I'm going to post a question about the 12V wiring for the fridge elsewhere if I can't find my answer in the forum.


Anyway, I continued with my electrical tasks.  With the new old generator needing to be mounted, plumbed and wired, and that my converter and inverter will be in close proximity to the generator, I've started wiring 2 gauge cable from the battery compartment along the frame to the generator compartment.  Getting creative with the use of a vise and screwdriver bits to crimp terminals onto this big cable!  Battery box has a body ground cable wired to the floor of the compartment, so I relocated it to the side of the box and bolted my new ground cable to the same bolt on the outside, and routing it to a body ground point near the generator.  To this, I will connect the 12V- from the generator, converter and inverter.  The 12V+ will go to the insulated fuse junction I bought for my inverter wiring relocated inside the generator box.  It will be a straight 1' drop through the floor for the converter and inverter to reach.  The beauty of it is that only the 1 2ga. cable will enter the battery compartment for the house batteries, instead of three separate long runs.  Tomorrow evening, I plan to cut cooling / wiring holes in the floor of the generator compartment and run the wires through the floor for the converter and inverter.


I don't know if I should post this question elsewhere.  Maybe the Apollo owners will have some insight.


My rig has an enclosed generator box… no provisions for routing fuel lines, wires or muffler.  When I look under the rig to see where a generator may have tied in, I can't tell.  On the steel tank that where the filler neck is on the passenger side, I can only see the line routed to the engine.  There is a plastic tank mounted in the middle of the rig that fuels from the drivers side, and the filler and filler vent tubes are easily seen.  The only thing I found that might be a capped generator fuel supply line looks like vacuum hose… not the typical 5/16 fuel hose I expected.  What's the deal?  Are generator fuel lines that small?  Or is it a vent?  Do I have to drop the tank to know for sure?  The hose attached to the generator's fuel line is 5/16, so I'm not even sure if I should mate the two.  Thought?  Examples?

[sasktrini]

My focus the last few days has been on installing a generator and conveniently locating 12V junctions in the generator box.  My refurb involves locating my inverter and converter adjacent to the generator box.  There is another topic I have related to my battery box P.O. config.

Drilled and Dremel'd large holes for PVC grommets for my wires and fuel lines to pass through, angle grinder with a cutting disc for the exhaust / cooling vents in the floor, drilled the mounting holes in the floor, and screwed in a junction box.

I dropped my rear plastic tank and found a capped 5/8" fitting... BINGO!  Snaked about 12' of hose with a clear fuel filter in the line (along the frame and away from heat), and all is good (except that my attempts to fire up the generator sipped off the little bit of fuel that the pickup could reach... I had confirmed that the fuel filter had filled, but only lasted a couple cranks).  Next attempt will include dumping some fresh fuel in a jerry can for the tank.

Also ran the wiring from the junction box to the 30A 120V receptacle in the electrical cubby that I put on the back side of the back wall.  Also ran the 30A 120V plug wiring from the cubby back into the cabin.

So now, I need to troubleshoot how to get the generator to run (it fires and sputters, but doesn't really catch as yet... may just have been fuel).  Think I need to clean the carb, as when I bought it, the priming switch was dumping fuel in front of the choke plate (sticking valve?)

Also, I don't have the exhaust pipe that mates to the flange on the unit.  May be shopping eBay for that.

[sasktrini]

Weather is finally turning.  Hovering around the freezing mark, winter is being gracious enough to allow me time to get some critical motorhome tasks complete.


First off… my $400 5500W generator… did a lot of troubleshooting… cleaned the carb ports and varnish yesterday, and ran from a jerry can successfully!  Today, realized I pinched the line I ran from my fuel tank, so dropping the tank (again) and rerouting the line allowed me to run the generator for several hours today! SUCCESS!!!


Onward, yesterday, I started with the delamination problem on the drivers side.  I glued the tin to the backside of the steel framing in the area of the bathroom and kitchen wall.  Today, I glued and pocket-joined supports to the tin and steel framing, and glued the insulation back in place!  Also double-insulated the rear cap around the window and panelled the rear cap!  Still have to cut out the window opening, but at least I have made significant progress in ensuring the motorhome is properly insulated and sturdy once more!







Next, I must proceed with delamination repairs further up through the kitchen area and repair and box in (insulate) the wheel well on the drivers side.  This will allow me to replace the kitchen cabinetry and reinstall / reconnect my propane appliances such as the ever important furnace… that ought to make my winter trials more comfortable!

[Rickf1985]

Be sure that 5/8 fitting is not a fill vent. After adding gas to the tank blow into that line and listen for bubbles, no bubbles and that means it is not in the gas and is probably a fill vent judging from the size. I have seen supply lines in 1/4 and 5/16 and rarely 3/8 and even more rarely 1/2 inch but I have never seen a 5/8 supply line.

[sasktrini]

My bad… I mean't 5/16".  That is the size of line I have run between the fuel tank and generator, and fit on the previously-capped port.

Lack of bubbles and sore cheeks was what led me to drop the tank a second time.  I knew the generator was starved of fuel because of a blockage somewhere as I couldn't blow through the fuel line.  But yes, I knew the vent was already connected, and there seems to be a 1/4" overflow as well dangling as well.  But the capped line that I plumbed to did result in bubbles!  I now have at least $60 worth of gas in that tank, and the generator happily runs now.  It took a little while to prime last night, but it's about a 15' run from the tank to the generator!


This accomplishment is very gratifying…
buying a used generator that I wasn't able to properly test before buying…
cutting and drilling all the vents, mounting holes and fuel / electrical line holes in a virgin generator bay (1979 motorhome never plumbed for a generator?)…
dropping the tank and finding the proper port to tap into (relieved that one existed)…
installing the generator, including fuel, 12V DC and 120V AC connections…
fixing the carburetor and fuel line routing…


I was basically improvising all the way along (I mean besides the great resources here and online) with the hope I didn't buy the equivalent of a boat anchor.


Nope… I won this battle!


Related to that… I just ordered the exhaust flange and gasket off eBay tonight… Gonna be excited to get those parts and plumb in a muffler and tailpipe!

[sasktrini]

Winter took it's time coming to my part of Canada, but it's definitely here now!

An update:

1) Got the exhaust flange and gasket from California.  They fit, but one bolt hole is stripped in the generator, so I'll have to tap it for a larger bolt.  Spent $35 for a universal automotive muffler. Trick is going from 1 1/4" exhaust flange to a 1 3/4" muffler input.  So it's not fabbed up for installation yet.

2) My next highest priority was reinstalling the furnace with a direct line to the tank.  I hadn't properly tested it since I had cleaned it up.  Thankfully the pilot lit readily, even with the piezo igniter.  But the main burner wasn't lighting.  After about 15 minutes of freezing with the blower fan running, and a few light raps with a hammer on the burner enclosure, the main burner came to life, and the heat was instant!  I will have HEAT when I return for more work on the RV!

3) I've continued working on my bathtub at home.  After scraping up all the silicone and whatever the tub damage was "sealed" with, I found a large hole and three cracks in the bottom of the tub and drain flange.  There were some cracks in the top mounting flange, including a chunk I broke removing the tub.








So I dremeled out the cracks and holes, fibreglassed the backside of all the damage, filled the inside with JB Weld, and am at the sanding phase.

More of those pictures to follow.  Soon, I hope to resurface the tub with a Rustoleum bathtub kit.  I need to sort out how I intend to route the drain and ensure I know where the tub will be positioned so I can rebuild the wall between the tub and fridge / furnace.  Rebuilding that wall from the bathroom through the sink and replacing all the propane appliances will allow me to seal up the outer wall!

[acenjason]

Nice work on the tub repair!:)