1979 winnebago chieftain dies after running for a bit

scubieman · November 22, 2014, 05:57 PM

My motorhome runs for a few minutes then dies, then I can get it to run and it dies again.

Things changed, spark plugs, carb rebuilt, fresh gas.

LJ-TJ · November 22, 2014, 06:23 PM

Sounds like a fuel filter?

cosmic · November 22, 2014, 06:26 PM

did you look down the carb and make sure its getting fuel?

scubieman · November 22, 2014, 06:48 PM

Yes there is fuel in the bowl, If I disconnect the fuel line before carb and turn it over fuel does spit out, So I know not a fuel issue.

Also when running I can see fuel go down the carb into the engine. It just doesnt stay running.

cosmic · November 22, 2014, 07:40 PM

ok so spark it is. and if it has spark to start, but looses it after how long? (how long is the engine running for before it dies?)

Rickf1985 · November 22, 2014, 08:27 PM

Bad ballast resistor if you have one or ignition module. Ignition modules going bad will usually also give a hard start symptom. A ballast resistor that has gone out completely will start and shut off as soon as you stop cranking. The other thing to look at would be a bad coil, as it warms up the windings go open circuit in the coil. As soon as that happens it starts to cool off and they will reconnect and it will run again. Eventually it will just quit altogether if that is the problem.

scubieman · November 22, 2014, 09:43 PM

It could run for a few minutes or only run for 10 seconds. It's never really the same.

brians1969 · November 22, 2014, 10:51 PM

QuoteAlso when running I can see fuel go down the carb into the engine. It just doesnt stay running.

As far as I can recall, you should only be really "seeing" fuel going down the carb is when you press the gas pedal down. The accelerator pump will then shoot a fine stream of gas down the throat. The rest of the time it is atomized. Is this what you meant?

scubieman · November 22, 2014, 11:11 PM

Right now the accelator pump is giving me issues, but idling is the issue, I took the the ballast resistor out. I plan to ohm it out in the morning to see if it's bad. Right now it's 34 F out and both sides are reading 0 ohm.

scubieman · November 23, 2014, 10:26 AM

I tested the ballast resistor which sat in the house all night, I have readings of 6.1 and .7

Do you guys think change it?

scubieman · November 23, 2014, 04:40 PM

I changed it and no changed. I seen distributor cap loose and tighten and no change, I looked under the cap and looks like its rubbing into the plastic of the cap

DaveVA78Chieftain · November 23, 2014, 06:25 PM

Would need to see a pic of the cap to say anything about that though that would be a bad distributor shaft bearing. Could also be the coil heating up and opening.

Dave

scubieman · November 23, 2014, 06:30 PM

well it appears the cap was loose. The next thing I am thinking of getting is a inline spark light that shows when the engine is sparking. I have no idea why it keeps dieing. The bowl is full fuel and i can see it going down into the intake.

LJ-TJ · November 23, 2014, 09:39 PM

Well I've had a similar situation in the past my self and it was the coil....... problem I didn't find it sooner is it was a brand new coil. You can always give it a try. I'm with Dave.

scubieman · November 24, 2014, 09:32 PM

How do you troubleshoot a coil? I see ohm it out but not sure.

And if feeling nice could I get the part number?

DaveVA78Chieftain · November 24, 2014, 10:29 PM

You can check ohms however that would not show an open if it is a heat related issue.

Dodge 2495531
NAPA IC676

At Autozone, Advance Auto, or any regular car parts house just ask for a ignition coil to fit a 77 D300 pickup with a 440.

Dave

scubieman · November 25, 2014, 08:21 PM

Dave thank you so much for your help. Does any of these help? I prefer o reilly as napa people are not on their "A" game.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Coils+-+Ignition/C2377/C0334.oap?model=D300+Pickup+RWD&vi=1086690&year=1977&make=Dodge

DaveVA78Chieftain · November 25, 2014, 09:52 PM

The Masterpro, Delco, and BWD brands are basic stock coils which will work fine for you stock application. the others are more high voltage racing coils.

Dave

scubieman · November 26, 2014, 10:25 PM

I bought new distributor rotor and cap. Also bought a new coil. All bwd brand. I'll post back results.

LJ-TJ · November 26, 2014, 10:54 PM

Well what's taking you so long. You got us all sitting on the edge of our seats. D:oH!

scubieman · November 27, 2014, 09:27 AM

Sorry, motorhome outside. Currently -13 and -20 wind chill. maybe in few hours

Rickf1985 · November 27, 2014, 11:22 AM

That's no excuse, you are working from the inside.

LJ-TJ · November 27, 2014, 12:24 PM

Hey a couple of good shots of Jack Danial's and you'll never feel a thing.

pvoth1111 · November 27, 2014, 12:40 PM

Quote from: scubieman on November 27, 2014, 09:27 AM
Sorry, motorhome outside. Currently -13 and -20 wind chill. maybe in few hours

we just got back from a nice walk to the beach......

scubieman · November 27, 2014, 01:10 PM

So I replaced the cap the rotor the coil. It's very cold here. It appears no spark at all. I have about 4-5 volts going to the coil. The positive small wire. I see 10 volts going into the ballast resistor. The engine will barely turn with battery charger connected. I am thinking I have something somewhere else causing bigger issues. Any ideas?