Sealing Windows

Started by Rusty2867, March 30, 2015, 02:51 PM

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Rusty2867

Ok,so I went and ordered new rubber and felt runners for my 77 Minnie.I did a search but didn't find anything clear about sealing windows after removal.What do I use to seal these when I put them back in?

gpw9552


Oz

Eternabond window seal tape.  Cut it in half or even in quarter lengthwise. 


http://www.eternabond.com/WindowSeal-p/ho-ws.htm
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

gadgetman

Butal gray dence or the black., I like the black

Rusty2867

It looks like it has some sort of thin foam tape on it now,I have only removed one window so far I have to have a new piece of glass cut.

TerryH

The black butyl tape - dependant on manufacturer is usually denser - hence better. Start at the bottom center of the window frame flange, work your way around it, and join together with a 1/8" overlap. Meld the overlap together. Use one piece per frame - the only joint should be bottom center - obvious reason. When you put the tape on the flange keep it ideally 1/8"  from the outside edge of the flange. When you tighten the frame installation screws you will get a degree of compression/oozing of the tape. Further, it gives you a void to fill with silicone. Butyl tape alone is not enough, and a small void for additional sealant to infill is ideal. This provides for required sealant movement which is based on sealant volume.
Personally I would recommend Tremco 440 Butyl Tape, 1/8 x 3/8". When you apply it to the radius edge of the flange rip the paper backing to prevent stretching the butyl and causing it to be thinner at the radius area. Fingernail works fine to rip it as you apply the tape.
My recommendation:
Tighten the frame installation screws only to the point of frame to tape to coach contact. Wait a couple of days and the tighten all screws slightly -1/4 turn or less. Ideally you will have no tape bleed out.
Wait a couple of days and the silicone the void.
I always mask before silicone. Takes a little longer but the end result will be appreciated. Masking tape doesn't like radius corners, but electrical tape does. Tool (force) the silicone into the void with your finger. Tooling of a sealant is the MOST important part of application. Remove the masking tape immediately after.

I've done numerous installations as above with no down the road problems.
Hope this helps.
Terry
It is not our abilities that show what we truly are - it is our choices.
Albus Dumbledore

TerryH

Quote from: Rusty2867 on March 30, 2015, 11:32 PM
It looks like it has some sort of thin foam tape on it now,I have only removed one window so far I have to have a new piece of glass cut.


Saw this after I had posted the above. Did not realize you were talking about the glass to frame seal as opposed to frame to coach seal. Different situation. Foam tape here is common.
Terry
It is not our abilities that show what we truly are - it is our choices.
Albus Dumbledore

Elandan2

The foam tape was the original installation.  As others have suggested, use butyl tape or eternabond.  They will create a much better seal than the foam that Winnebago originally used.  Rick
Rick and Tracy Ellerbeck

Rusty2867

Thanks for all of the replies,I just hope it doesn't rain while I'm doing this!

Rickf1985

I avoid silicone like the plague! I will only use polyurethane or elastomeric sealants. Silicone has a lot of adhesion problems and then if you ever need to reseal, and you will, NOTHING sticks to silicone, including silicone. Removing silicone is also a nightmare of a project since most anything that will remove silicone will also damage finishes and melt plastics.

Rusty2867

Ordered the glass today,takes a week.I sure hope we don't get any rain.Its will be 3 weeks before I can work on it again.Out come the tarps!